A/C pump deletion.

[converted]

Hey all,

I was wondering if there was a setup I can buy which deletes the a/c compressor pump and I can run a straight pulley. Or is there another way to delete the pump cause its going into a boat and I wont require air conditioning obviously!!

Craig

 

[gloverman]

This is easy - Remove the A/c pump and remove the powersteer pump. When replacing the cambelt strip the hydralic fan pump out. We then remove the front pully off the a/c pump and machine it to fit over the auto tensioner. This way the auto tensioner has ribs and so the belt goes around the tensioner , alternator and crank pully. No need to alter the alternator mounting and belt self tensions. Done this a couple of times in boats and hilux with only an alternator. Cheers

 

[converted]

thaanks Gloverman...i forgot to mention in eed to keep the pwr steer pump. I using a mercuiser and the steering ram has power steer standard...

 

[gloverman]

Ok then remove the A/c and throw it away. Remove the hydralic fan pump and strip the pully and internals throw it away leaving an empty hole. Use a 6pk1560 and run from crank pully up to small idler over to the p/s down to the alternator and around the tensioner like normal. Some hydralic pump housings need a grind as they sit too tall and will touch the belt. This is a standard setup when we prepare a motor as we rarely run a/c. Cheers

 

[gloverman]

Craig I happened to be doing this job tonight. Started at 7 oclock and think it's home time now. Cambelt, seals , bearings, waterpump, rotors and tensioner are now all done and there are photos of the hydralic pump stripped. We will weld up the extra water fitting on the thermostat housing and I will find a alternator to fit. PS will go back on with a new idle up. The motor must have been burning oil as idle up valve was leaking oil. Hope this helps. I will show the belt fitted up tomorrow.
The last photo shows three other engines which need preparing for fitting. One is all wired and has been running on the stand. Most will receive sump swaps , filter housing changes and header changes as they are all bound for different vehicles. This one is going into a 1995 KZN130 surf. Cheers

 

[converted]

these are awsome pictures gloverman i really appreciate the time you have spent posting them.I have the engine (well my mock up 1UZ block anyway) to check all the alignments now and to make up my cross-member. I am certainly going to find this very helpful in the next few weeks with regards to completing the project. Craig

 

[gloverman]

Sorry for the delay but I did get some more photos so here goes.

I hope these pictures help

Cheers
Kelvin

 

[converted]

thats great Kelvin ...just 2 quick questions...

How do you get the hydraulic fan pump pulley off...tried a rattlle gun etc etc do you have to get the 5 bolts off under the pulley?? Or does the whole pump assembly come off to do that?
And also what size belt are you using (ie a 5PK1250 ) ???

At the moment it at Sideshows shop getting the loom converted for the boat. I will tacle it early next week.
Im loving this install BTW. The 1UZ is just a beatiful engine to engineer...it looks like its a factory install the way the engine slots in the boat. Cant wait to get her going.

Craig

 

[gloverman]

Hello Craig

Your loom is in good hands.
As you can see I do the job with the whole assembly on the bench while doing a cambelt job. There are two different types of hydralic pump as explained here http://lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8155 but I never got photos so I will see if I still have both laying around and post them here.
A breif overveiw of the job is you need to remove the pully. As yours has five nuts it is the same as the ones in the photos. Undo the nut and then the pully on a taper. A puller is the best way to get it off. The one in the photos above I hit in strategic places with a hammer but it's not my first one. If you can't get the pully off cut the bars with a grinder so you can get at the bolts underneith. Then undo the 5bolts and pry the top cover off. There is a cast sandwich plate which can come off then slip the gears out. Remove the solenoid and rear pipe. There are some dowls to remove and and a pressure release valve. Then give it a clean and you are done. It can be done on the engine but I always remove.
It is possible to slowly undo all the bolts gradually with the pully on but it takes ages. If you dont have a puller the grinder is the best option. Dont remove the steel sleeve that the top idler sits onto.
I'm doing another motor at the moment so if you want more photos just ask.
Belt size is a 6PK1560.
On a side note I have a NZ customer who just purchased mounts from me and has looked over this tread to see how to do the same job. Much easier than explaining over the phone.

Craig do you like my oil filter mount? They work great in boats and on Hilux.

Cheers
Kelvin

 

[cjsupra90]

How do you get the hydraulic fan pump pulley off...tried a rattlle gun etc etc do you have to get the 5 bolts off under the pulley?? Or does the whole pump assembly come off to do that?
And also what size belt are you using (ie a 5PK1250 ) ???
Craig

Just incase you didn't know, the nut on it is left hand thread not right hand and thus clockwise to remove.

 

[jibbby]

Turn clockwise on the holding bolt or you will strip it like Supra said.... Grab a Puller tool and turn the tool until the pulley pops out.. Make sure the radiator is protected or out of the car.. Mine popped and thrust back with some force.....

That was my experience with removing that pulley... Also this is a pic of my funky home made special belt setup minus the hydro fan pulley.... I decided to use one of the hydro pumps holding bolts as a idler mount... Drilled the hole a little larger and re-threaded it and slapped a universal idler on... Grabbed a measuring rope and matched that at the auto parts store to get the proper sized serp belt fit... Whalla good to go.....

 

[cjsupra90]

Turn clockwise on the holding bolt or you will strip it like Supra said.... Grab a Puller tool and turn the tool until the pulley pops out.. Make sure the radiator is protected or out of the car.. Mine popped and thrust back with some force.....

That was my experience with removing that pulley... Also this is a pic of my funky home made special belt setup minus the hydro fan pulley.... I decided to use one of the hydro pumps holding bolts as a idler mount... Drilled the hole a little larger and re-threaded it and slapped a universal idler on... Grabbed a measuring rope and matched that at the auto parts store to get the proper sized serp belt fit... Whalla good to go.....

counter clockwise jibbby!

 

[jibbby]

Counter clock wise, correct CJ..... The opposite of the norm... My bad, oooops... I actually stripped out that bolt trying to take it off as I learned the hard way..

The opposite of righty tighty, lefty loosey which is counter clock wise...

 

[gloverman]

Hello Guys

You fellows are referring to the auto tensioner bolt which is a left hand thread. The hydralic pump front nut has a standard right hand thread. Craig doesn't need the a/c pump so no need for the hydralic pump.

Cheers

 

[Lextreme II]

Craig I happened to be doing this job tonight. Started at 7 oclock and think it's home time now. Cambelt, seals , bearings, waterpump, rotors and tensioner are now all done and there are photos of the hydralic pump stripped. We will weld up the extra water fitting on the thermostat housing and I will find a alternator to fit. PS will go back on with a new idle up. The motor must have been burning oil as idle up valve was leaking oil. Hope this helps. I will show the belt fitted up tomorrow.
The last photo shows three other engines which need preparing for fitting. One is all wired and has been running on the stand. Most will receive sump swaps , filter housing changes and header changes as they are all bound for different vehicles. This one is going into a 1995 KZN130 surf. Cheers

Your garage looks like mine..... Lots of collection...

 

[cjsupra90]

Hello Guys

You fellows are referring to the auto tensioner bolt which is a left hand thread. The hydralic pump front nut has a standard right hand thread. Craig doesn't need the a/c pump so no need for the hydralic pump.

Cheers

Hmmm, My hydraulic pump was Left hand thread as has been the 4 others that I have disassembled.

Either way, I agree that there is no need for the pump (or any type of idler there for that matter) if your deleting the A/C comp....

 

[converted]

Awesome thanks guys...Kelvin I think I might hit you up for one of those oil filter adapters cause my oil filter may interfere with my petrol filler hose. I also thinking of just doing a remote oil cooler setup with a spin on adapter plate of you have those I might get that with a remote oil filter mount.

 

[gloverman]

What is your time frame as there will be a remote oil cooler set up avaliable for a marine application. It incorparates a large oil filter in the design. Should be avaliable soon. I will check on the time frame.

Cheers

 

[converted]

id like it to be in the water in a couple of months so no real pressing urgency. I was going to goto Rocket and pick up a kit. But can hold off until you come at me with a price kelvin....

 

[gloverman]

Hello Guys
I have learnt something - I have stripped so many of these fan units I switch off while doing them and the nut is left hand tread. So Clockwise to undo.
As for the oil cooler kit for a boat I should have photos in a couple of weeks. Cheers