dudescar
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- auckland, new zealand
hi all, bit of an
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`92 surf v6 5 speed manual 1uzfe conversion
- Thread starter dudescar
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
1UZ to 6 speed Altezza box if memory serves correct.
Happy to help as I do these all the time. Found a good supplier in Thailand and his product while he is into drifting is spot on for the 4wds
XR8tt
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Kiora...
SAD to hear about your son...
Plenty of guys here only too keen to help with conversion..
Just keep pics coming..
Welcome to forums...
SAD to hear about your son...
Plenty of guys here only too keen to help with conversion..
Just keep pics coming..
Welcome to forums...
gloverman
Well-Known Member
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- Hamilton. New Zealand
My truck started as V6. Pretty easy to do and the wiring isnt that bad really. I have sold parts for over 100 surfs now so maybe thats why I find them easy. Good platform to start with. Good luck. Cheers
vvega
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awesome . i spend a lot of time up in auckland these days .. if you need a hand give me a yell 
XR8tt
Active Member
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- Sydney Australia
That was done by Rod Millan / Chip Foose and co on early American Hot Rod.. Before Boyd Coddington... It may have been auto's to auto ?? convert to 2J engine or 1UZ ??? [Kiwi / U.S ingenuity ]
IS300 shape...
About 7min through...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fqc6UWnpCoU
IS300 shape...
About 7min through...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fqc6UWnpCoU
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1UZ to 6 speed Altezza box if memory serves correct.
Happy to help as I do these all the time. Found a good supplier in Thailand and his product while he is into drifting is spot on for the 4wds
Grab the gearbox crossmember and driveshafts from a manual LN130 Surf (2.4 diesel) this will sit the gear box in the right position to allow you to get a decent radiator and electric fan in. You will need to mount the engine as low as you can to get firewall clearance and do some fab work to the sump bowl
Yep and using the parts I've mentioned assists that. It also helps keep the driveshaft angles as near as dammit to original (taking into account suspension lifts) so no vibrations at speed until you run out of wheel balance (170 clicks for mine). If you really wanted to get carried away you'd also use the gearbox (R151) from the KZN130 to keep the same ratios and have the gearsticks in original location. Sump...well your sorta stuffed whichever way you go but depending how much time you put into that creation is how original it looks. Ideally you'd want it to hold 8-10 litres of oil as more oil does help the cooling.
Presently I'm fitting a 1UZ into an RZN169 Hilux, A lot of care and attention is being taken to detail and even the engine mount brackets look factory right down to a factory look bellhousing and clutch setup using all OEM parts where possible (New of course)
Presently I'm fitting a 1UZ into an RZN169 Hilux, A lot of care and attention is being taken to detail and even the engine mount brackets look factory right down to a factory look bellhousing and clutch setup using all OEM parts where possible (New of course)
Yep and your box will be the R150F and the gearbox in the VZN130 sits 60mm further forward than in the LN130. In fact given that the VZN130 has a larger pressing in the firewall to allow for the crossover pipe it is probably a little more friendly for the V8 conversions. One point to note is that you'll need to move the fuel pipes from the drivers side of the car to the passengers side. I generally use the diesel ones as they're bigger.
Also when you get up to wiring the thing let me know as I have all the wiring diagrams and ECU pinouts both for the Surf and the V8s so it becomes a simple matter of just matching pins
Also when you get up to wiring the thing let me know as I have all the wiring diagrams and ECU pinouts both for the Surf and the V8s so it becomes a simple matter of just matching pins
I'd shift the box to the LN130 position and mount the engine as low as you can (there are reasons for this) Things like the clutch pipe are easy enough to deal with as you need to change this now that the slave cylinder is on the other side from the V6 position. Shifting the box back will mean some dorking around with the gear levers but that's no biggie and you should end up with about 12mm firewall clearance at the closest point with the R/H rocker cover sitting approx 40mm below the brake booster..
Oil filter...Easy!! Use the oil filter housing from the Soarer/SC400 with a Z493 oil filter. The housing can be purchased new from Toyota if need be and the one I just got in was $110AUD. Gives adequate clearance to the chassis and keeps the "Factory look".
Exhaust manifolds.. Bad news there the Celsior/Soarer type won't fit without a lot of mods as the top arms and torsion bars are in the way. The easy way around this is to find and use 2UZ Landcruiser manifolds (slightly better than Crown log type and easier to find.. sometimes). Some mods to the outlet end are required for clearance of afore mentioned suspension components. Using the 2UZ manifolds also means that the dipstick tube still fits as original but over the counter extractors might be available soon..
Some more tips. Heater hoses, use V6 Surf/4runner hoses ('92-95 model), top hose is trimmed XH Falcon ute and bottom is 2UZ Landcruiser joined to a top hose from a U13 Bluebird (KA24 engine). This is using the LN130 Surf Radiator.
Now getting back to the way I've suggested mounting the engine and position of box. I've driven examples where the engine is further forward and mounted higher. Trust me you won't like the way that they turn corners (esp in NZ where the roads do have corners and lots of them). These are the ones that do have cooling problems and need bodylifts fitted so you can get the bonnet shut
Oil filter...Easy!! Use the oil filter housing from the Soarer/SC400 with a Z493 oil filter. The housing can be purchased new from Toyota if need be and the one I just got in was $110AUD. Gives adequate clearance to the chassis and keeps the "Factory look".
Exhaust manifolds.. Bad news there the Celsior/Soarer type won't fit without a lot of mods as the top arms and torsion bars are in the way. The easy way around this is to find and use 2UZ Landcruiser manifolds (slightly better than Crown log type and easier to find.. sometimes). Some mods to the outlet end are required for clearance of afore mentioned suspension components. Using the 2UZ manifolds also means that the dipstick tube still fits as original but over the counter extractors might be available soon..
Some more tips. Heater hoses, use V6 Surf/4runner hoses ('92-95 model), top hose is trimmed XH Falcon ute and bottom is 2UZ Landcruiser joined to a top hose from a U13 Bluebird (KA24 engine). This is using the LN130 Surf Radiator.
Now getting back to the way I've suggested mounting the engine and position of box. I've driven examples where the engine is further forward and mounted higher. Trust me you won't like the way that they turn corners (esp in NZ where the roads do have corners and lots of them). These are the ones that do have cooling problems and need bodylifts fitted so you can get the bonnet shut
I'll have Tui...
Steering damper... Take the "Bicycle pump" off and throw it away then cut it's "lug" off the drag link. Rancho do a steering damper relocation kit which you use most of (or you can make up a clamp on bracket which is similar to the one supplied in the kit) ending up with something like what is shown (which is pictured at mockup stage using a 4way Toughdog damper, gussets and a spacer were later added in place of the big nut, sump shown holds 11.5L of oil with filter, no custom aside from being stronger belly pan needed).
Now when you trial fit the engine and are happy with the way it is mounted the first thing to do before doing anything else is to get the clutch set up and working (hydraulics) as odds on that may need to come out again for some "adjustments" until you get a nice pedal feel and take up at the right point (had the box out of the current build twice before we were happy with the clutch)
Steering damper... Take the "Bicycle pump" off and throw it away then cut it's "lug" off the drag link. Rancho do a steering damper relocation kit which you use most of (or you can make up a clamp on bracket which is similar to the one supplied in the kit) ending up with something like what is shown (which is pictured at mockup stage using a 4way Toughdog damper, gussets and a spacer were later added in place of the big nut, sump shown holds 11.5L of oil with filter, no custom aside from being stronger belly pan needed).
Now when you trial fit the engine and are happy with the way it is mounted the first thing to do before doing anything else is to get the clutch set up and working (hydraulics) as odds on that may need to come out again for some "adjustments" until you get a nice pedal feel and take up at the right point (had the box out of the current build twice before we were happy with the clutch)
Attachments
You should end up with a bit more clearance from the hood but I usually don't bother to measure that as such coz if you have the fire wall clearances correct and 50mm from the top of the drag link to the flange on the alloy sump casting it will be right. That way you can without a body lift get the air intake fitted in (use a KZN130 air box so you can later fit twin batteries and a snorkel if desired) and get the bonnet shut without anything hitting it when you've got your boot up it.
I'll drop you a PM with some info that is relevant
I'll drop you a PM with some info that is relevant
Oil level sensor. Remove the two screws, cut the wires and use the alloy bit to fill the hole. You cut the sump wrong by the way. I cut the whole lot and the cut behind the sump plug as that saves a lot of hassle later. You should end up with something that looks like a pair of flared jeans...
Going out on the boat fishing... Lucky bugger.. Spent 5 years living on an ex Perano 'Chaser before I moved to WA.. Land locked ATM.. Always wanted to get my hands on either Paea or Tarapunga when they came up and I believe that Paea is up your way now. Got the plans for the HDMLs too and a nice little 30 foot day boat that Bruce Askew gave to me before I left NZ
Going out on the boat fishing... Lucky bugger.. Spent 5 years living on an ex Perano 'Chaser before I moved to WA.. Land locked ATM.. Always wanted to get my hands on either Paea or Tarapunga when they came up and I believe that Paea is up your way now. Got the plans for the HDMLs too and a nice little 30 foot day boat that Bruce Askew gave to me before I left NZ
Already decided to build one and technically it won't be the first as I completely re-fitted the last one.. I love re-fastening Carvel boats...not. and don't talk to me about caulking... Getting the white lead was the easy bit.. Next one will either be the G.O.P 30 footer that I have plans for or an HDML replica built from steel (got original plans) with a few mods.. (Gyro stabilizers and semi-displacement hull, prob 3208 Cat power)
Tip while engine is out.. Either go find a diesel Surf being wrecked and pull the fuel pipes or get some 10mm and 8mm tubing (BNT might be the go there) and a flaring tool. Make up a fuel return pipe to the tank and new fuel pipe from the original fuel filter. You need both to come up the passengers side of the firewall as per the diesel. Now on the engine if it is '89-'95 Celsior origin (which it probably is) check where the fuel goes in and returns which is probably below the L/H exhaust manifold, if you can change these for UZZ31 Soarer ones which enter and exit above the L/H rocker cover. Also remove the brackets which hold the wiring loom as these will foul the firewall if you have the engine in the right place. Now wiring it up... No problem I have all the diagrams not only for the Surf but the Soarer and we're talking factory ones here so you should end up with a simple matter of matching wires/ pin-outs to have everything working as per factory build. Given some of the boats I've worked on in the past where some muppet will go and wire everything up in one colour once you get your head around the diagrams they're not hard, just eat time. You will need a decent multimeter with a tacho function for later too (perhaps you know a mechanic you can bribe for a loan of one). The wiring diagrams I'll probably have to send in hard copy form by post as they're to big of a file to send via e-mail. The Surf stuff is in Japanese but I also have the Aussie 4runner stuff which is much the same and in colour
Tip while engine is out.. Either go find a diesel Surf being wrecked and pull the fuel pipes or get some 10mm and 8mm tubing (BNT might be the go there) and a flaring tool. Make up a fuel return pipe to the tank and new fuel pipe from the original fuel filter. You need both to come up the passengers side of the firewall as per the diesel. Now on the engine if it is '89-'95 Celsior origin (which it probably is) check where the fuel goes in and returns which is probably below the L/H exhaust manifold, if you can change these for UZZ31 Soarer ones which enter and exit above the L/H rocker cover. Also remove the brackets which hold the wiring loom as these will foul the firewall if you have the engine in the right place. Now wiring it up... No problem I have all the diagrams not only for the Surf but the Soarer and we're talking factory ones here so you should end up with a simple matter of matching wires/ pin-outs to have everything working as per factory build. Given some of the boats I've worked on in the past where some muppet will go and wire everything up in one colour once you get your head around the diagrams they're not hard, just eat time. You will need a decent multimeter with a tacho function for later too (perhaps you know a mechanic you can bribe for a loan of one). The wiring diagrams I'll probably have to send in hard copy form by post as they're to big of a file to send via e-mail. The Surf stuff is in Japanese but I also have the Aussie 4runner stuff which is much the same and in colour
Looking good but don't let the exhaust manifolds lull you into a false sense of security. I found that when I did the first one that with the flanges cut off on trial fit they fitted until I put the box in and mounted all that up as then the angles changed enough for them to foul the top arms and torsion bars. I ended up fitting Crown Log manifolds which now really have to go as they strangle the thing. But over the counter bolt on extractors for this style of conversion should be available later in the year. Well after I'm able to give my exhaust supplier my Surf for a week...
Dropping the engine down will solve the clearance issues to firewall which you don't need to modify.. Clearance sounds correct to the rad support panel... Take your exhaust manifolds off and biff them tho as to have the engine in the right place they aint gunna fit. 2UZ Landcruiser manifolds can be used (which also means that the dipstick tube will still fit) but you need to use two bolt flanges and cut and twist the outlet ends in to clear the torsion bars. Expect to spend at least a day on this part.
Hydro fan pump.. As you are going to replace the timing belt and water pump, seals etc (you are aren't you?) pull this off and throw it away. Get the fan idler for the 2UZ 100 series Landcruiser from Toyota which I last priced at $282 plus GST NZD (I was buying them out of Toyota NZ until Toyota Aus began to offer a better price) and the pulley to suit (which Toyota NZ wanted for some reason $220 plus GST yet $78 from Toyota Aus, quite happy to get one for you and post it over). This solves a lot of problems and keeps every part inc belts an over the counter buy. Wiring for that you can either remove or leave in as it ends up going nowhere and can be used for another item (A/C compressor).
Traction control.. Remove the lot.. Drill and tap the sections where the spindles for it's butterfly are to take fittings to connect the IAC valve into and power steer idle up, you'll see why when you get to the air intake but this also keeps things nice and tidy for when it's cert time.
The wiring is going to drive you nuts but it isn't as hard as you think. You match pins and in your case use what is already there in the Surf in terms of circuit opening, EFI, Fuel pump and start relays plus Vehicle speed sensor. It does eat time tho and the hardest part is getting everything thru the original grommet, you tend to understand what the Mrs felt like popping kids out after that bit
Hydro fan pump.. As you are going to replace the timing belt and water pump, seals etc (you are aren't you?) pull this off and throw it away. Get the fan idler for the 2UZ 100 series Landcruiser from Toyota which I last priced at $282 plus GST NZD (I was buying them out of Toyota NZ until Toyota Aus began to offer a better price) and the pulley to suit (which Toyota NZ wanted for some reason $220 plus GST yet $78 from Toyota Aus, quite happy to get one for you and post it over). This solves a lot of problems and keeps every part inc belts an over the counter buy. Wiring for that you can either remove or leave in as it ends up going nowhere and can be used for another item (A/C compressor).
Traction control.. Remove the lot.. Drill and tap the sections where the spindles for it's butterfly are to take fittings to connect the IAC valve into and power steer idle up, you'll see why when you get to the air intake but this also keeps things nice and tidy for when it's cert time.
The wiring is going to drive you nuts but it isn't as hard as you think. You match pins and in your case use what is already there in the Surf in terms of circuit opening, EFI, Fuel pump and start relays plus Vehicle speed sensor. It does eat time tho and the hardest part is getting everything thru the original grommet, you tend to understand what the Mrs felt like popping kids out after that bit
