63 impala (1uz or 2jz?)

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

usoff89

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Location
Jacksonville, Fl.
I'll be buying my dads 63 impala in a few months. No motor or trans at the moment. I'm really thinking of putting either a 1uz possibly with a single turbo, or a 2jz in it. I would think it would be less fab work for the 2jz, but a car like that might miss the v8 sound. It is a big car, and might require more tourqe to get her moving.

I can pick up a 2jz auto with harness and ecu for about 2k. Then It would be just making the motor/trans mounts, and wiring it up. The good thing about the 2jz, is they make so much bolt on stuff, like headers, and intake.

The 1uz would be fairly easy if I went n/a. But if I went turbo, it will be a little bit more fab work to make the headers and piping for the turbo.

What do you guys think? I'm about half and half right now.
 
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I am in the middle of doing a 1UZ swap on my 73 Nova right now. As far as mounting and problems that need to be overcome we have the same issues. Before you work out what kind of engine you want to use first what are you planning to do with the car? How do you want to use it? The differences between the 1U and the 2J are large other than their configuration.

Jake
 
It's a four door, so i'm not going to go to crazy with it. I might end up bagging it, with some nice wheels. Just trying to be different really. I love the wow factor. You pop the hood at a show and people just say to them selfs "WTF?"

I'd like it to have a decent amount of power, but I dont have any plans to race it. I'd like to see around 400 hp or so. Which shouldn't be a problem with either motor if I went turbo.

I currently have a 350 sitting in the garage, but you would expect to see something like that.

I'm sure I'll have the room for a 1uz, but I'll have to see if they are wider than a 350sbc. For some reason I want to say they are wider. A buddy of mine has a complete 1uz harness and ecu, with the auto from a sc for $600. I might pick that up even if I dont use it.
 
The small block chevy engine without exhaust manifolds or headers is about 20.125 inches. The 1UZFE is about 24.500 inches. But in a 63 Impala I know a big block will fit with room to spare. Fitting the engine will not be a problem. Fitting the 1U with a pair of turbos will be easy in that engine compartment will also be pretty easy.

From what you have said you want to do the 1U would work great. Make sure you get an engine that has a mechanical fan factory and not the hydraulic fan setup. It will make you're life slightly easier in that car. It will be a cool smooth cruiser. You will also be amazed how it makes that car jump when needed.

Jake
 
Thanks for the info. The 2jz sounds nice, but I am starting to lean towards the 1uz. I would get the motor mounted and running first. Work out all of the bugs, and then start looking into boost. I guess i could always just throw a vortec on it and call it a day.
 
Well just because I am kind of an A-hole let me throw another option into the mix. Take a look at the GM Atlas LL8 straight 6 engine. Came in the Envoy, Trailblazer, Bravada, and a few others. Remember Toyota has been working closely with GM since the 70's. These GM engines are almost direct copies of the Toyota 2J. There have been a couple of people to single and twin turbo. Also centrifugal superchargers. Over the counter kits are available and GM sells an over the counter ECU to run this engine in anything. But anything that will work for a 2J as far as performance theory will work on these engines. They are one of my favorite motors. You know they worked well because GM discontinued them in production. Nobody can crap on something quality faster than GM.

Jake
 
Yeah, you are very right about GM. They cycle threw things way too fast. I'll look into the inline six, it does sound interesting. Might also be a cheaper route to go as far as sourcing parts.
 
they killed the Atlas I6? Bummer, nice engine. The PCM is fully tuneable with EFILive, not sure it will handle boosted, will have to look and see what I find in EFILive or Tunercat.

Isn't GM ironic, something good they get rid of, something that sucks for quality, they keep forever....

I have an LT1 for sale from a 94 Fleetwood sitting in my garage, spun bearing, but is a 92k mile engine. No idea how they spun a bearing at 92k, but the trans was broke when I got it, didn't go past 1st gear, my guess is they tried to drive it (from Indianapolis to Chicago)..... Rated at 260 hp, my 94 Fleetwood (not same car) on the datalogger dyno saw briefly 260 hp to the wheels with my tune on it and E85. The LT1's are a fair bit underrated powerwise.
 
It's funny you mention the fleetwood. I'm a fellow B and D body owner. Or was anyway. I've had a number of caprices and a couple roadmaster sedans. My 95 roadmaster had a semi built motor, built tranny, and 373gears. It was an amazing car, because nobody ever new what was in it. I never had it dynoed, but with a street tune on 93, I would guess that it made around 340-350whp. Man you just made me miss that car! lol, thanks
 
I miss mine, mine has 250k miles, is the rare V4P 7000 lb tow package car with 3.42's factory. it does burnouts REAL good!!!! 15.2@95 mph according to the datalogger. Not bad for >5000 lbs race weight. V4P cars have factory HD springs, sway bars, other HD stuff, (special 4L60E) and I added cop car body/frame bushings, wipers, tuned it, 9C1 SEO hoses, mine was a factory 7 blade fan car not electrics, it ran much better temps than the electric fan cars.

Yup, I miss it! My son has it now. I love the big car.... Just wish for the Fleetwood GM would have given the Corvette 300 hp LT1 to the Fleetwood too.... GM can be awful sometimes... more times than not.... Stupid stuff on great cars is the name of the game. Like lack of posi on the Fleetwood!
 
My dad also has a 95 roadmaster sedan. His has a factory posi in it. GU8 I believe the code is. It was a weird option, because it doesn't have a tow package or anything.

Speaking of posi trac..... I can't stand the fact that my LS doesn't have an LSD. One tire fire is no fun.
 
The Fleetwood had traction control so LSD was not allowed. The B Bods were all sans traction control so the LSD was an option. It is just a RPO option (look for G80 in the SPID). GU8 is 3.90's, so it won't be that. GT1 is 2.56's, GU3 is 2.93's and GU3 is 3.08's (9C1/9C6/Impy SS). I would bet 2.93's or 2.56's. Prob 2.93's.

The GS has an LSD avail, from the TT Auto Supra, and then it bumps you up to 3.76's. And IF you can find them, they typically are in the $600 to $1000. And rare to find. I think TRD has one, but I am sure it takes a small fortune to get one.

Makes me wonder what market would be out there for a LSD for these cars? But tooling is $$$$ and that would drive the cost way up.
 
Your right G80 was is the code for the posi, got mixed up.

For my LS, I don't think there is any kinda of direct swap for a LSD? I'm really thinking about going to grab an extra rearend at the junk yard and welding the diff solid. Maybe giving that a shot, and seeing how bad the drive would be. If it's horrible, I'll just switch them back out. This would be the cheapest way to go, but I know it's not the best.
 
It will work, but they often snap axles, and you get some very dangerous handling in wet or snow in corners. It probably isn't worth it from a safety standpoint.

I don't know if the diff in the LS, or even GS would lend itself to a diff from another brand. I need to get one to take apart and see what dimension are inside, maybe a more common diff from another car can be modified to work.

Your right G80 was is the code for the posi, got mixed up.

For my LS, I don't think there is any kinda of direct swap for a LSD? I'm really thinking about going to grab an extra rearend at the junk yard and welding the diff solid. Maybe giving that a shot, and seeing how bad the drive would be. If it's horrible, I'll just switch them back out. This would be the cheapest way to go, but I know it's not the best.
 


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