2uz fj40

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

Red Dragon

New Member
Messages
14
Location
Lafayette, La
Picked up a new project, the FJ 40 from Hardline Crawlers forum:
FJ40 Land Cruiser (Tons/Linked/v8 etc) PLUS LOTS OF PARTS
Its a 73 frame with a aluminum tub, and cut front fenders. CUCV dana 60 front with 4.56 gears, Detroit locker, rear is a 14 Bolt 4.56 gears, gov't locker. Rear has been four linked with some stock TJ springs, Rusty's offroad joints and have the brackets and joints to link the front. Chevy TBI V-8 engine swap, that is for sale.
This will be a slow build, but the plans are to remove the Chevy motor, install the 2UZ from the wrecked Tundra, Inchworm prerunner adapter for the 2wd trans to mini truck T-case, and some properly sized tires to get it road worthy. Sliders, tube fenders, roll cage, and then four link the front with some ORI struts to get it trail worthy.
http://s556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/John350Z71/FJ 40/
DSCF0136.jpg
DSCF0139.jpg
Wrecked Tundra with donor 2UZ and auto trans.
th_120224_00001.jpg
Inchworm adapter:
http://www.inchwormgear.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=21_53&products_id=995
Still doing research so any items I should adress or tricks to make a better out come post up.
 
Last edited:
Nice!! Looks like you're going to be having some fun.. Always loved the shorty 40s but in this part of the world "Car cancer" got most of them and what's left are a tad overpriced "Cruiser Tax" if you will.

Tip number one.. SC400 rear sump on the 2UZ will solve a few headaches with clearing the front diff

If you want a manual box use the R150 from a V6 4runner with the same kit to put it on the back of a 1UZ with an inchworm or trailgear kit to use the appropriate transfer depending on the diff configuration, was "offset, offset" on the 'Cruisers but given that it's had Danas fitted (and looking at the pics in the link halfway thru the post) I'd be inclined to run manual with dual gear driven Hilux transfers.

Now from memory the original tyre size on the FJ40 was 7.50x16 so given the 4.56 gearing a tyre size such as 275/75x16 should be spot on for highway driving giving you around 2700rpm at 60mph
 
Like the auto and since all I need is the PreRunner adapter to attach the T-case no need to try to source and attach something else. Also have to see how long the drivetrain will be before deciding on dual or single case for the rear driveshaft angles.
Will look into rear sump, also read about swapping the oil filter housing so that it points forward instead of down. Thanks for the tips.
 
Have you considered a 4x4 2uz sump. We see them in landcruisers. Thats what we prefer to use in our similar conversions. We also have a FJ40 in at the moment. Also with Auto but with an early 1uz. Cheers
 
Mounted the 40" Trepadors on the H2 wheels and did some clearance checks, all looks good so far. Unable to flex it to much with just a floor jack, but I know its going to be tall.:frown:
Also took one inch out of the 2 inch body lift, next is finish cleaning up the frame in prep for the engine swap.
120615_0008.jpg
 
Got the motor freshened up today with new Asin water pump, thermostat, timing belt with new tensioner, new crank seal, serpentine belt, and valve covers seals.
P1030832.jpg
P1030833.jpg
Swapped in some some 4.7 gears into a mini truck T-case and installed the rear disconnect for front digs.
P1030838.jpg
Then installed the Inchworm Worm Gear prerunner adapter on the trans and ready for the new transfercase.
P1030847.jpg
P1030850.jpg
 
Cool project. I take it that the Tundra was 2wd.
How many miles were on the 2uz?
Not sure of the mileage motor swapped in a year before it was wrecked by the previous owner.
Don't get rid of the doner yet. You need the ignition key assembly.
Stripped all the electrical, steering colomun, AC, and dash. Even kept the fuel tank.

Polished up the trans some with a soft wire wheel cup and grinder.
P1030858.jpg
P1030857.jpg
 
Drop the motor into the frame rails today to get an idea for some motor mounts.
P1030873.jpg
P1030875.jpg
PS pulley is to close to the shock mounts, may swap to some shock hoops.
P1030878.jpg
 
With the help of a few BSLCA members, we got the motor positioned in the frame and began to fit the Tundra frame motor mounts. Plated the frame some and then trimmed the factory Tundra frame mounts to allow for the new motor placement. Tacked everything up and pulled the engine out to do some full welds. Still have lots of grinding, because I am no where near a good welder, before some paint and final install.
P1030925.jpg
P1030928.jpg
P1030936.jpg
P1030947.jpg
P1030953.jpg
Finished with the welding, grinding, and started with painting after cleaning up a few other spots on the frame.
P1030963.jpg
P1030964.jpg
P1030961.jpg
P1030960.jpg
Started graphing in the Tundra tilt steering column, which well help with all the electrical switches and some leg room.
P1030970.jpg
P1030972.jpg
Also started on a shifter handle to move the rear disconnect next to the twin sticks, just need to add a linkage.
P1030969.jpg
P1030966.jpg
 
So, my buddy was able to help me with wiring harness so we trimmed it down to what we needed using the EWD from TIS. Found out that the FJ 40 and Tundra headlight plugs are the same, also the Tundra brake light switch will screw into the 40's mount. Just need to figure out the FJ 40's wiper motor wiring to tie in the Tundra harness.
DSCF4398_zpsd0aa486f.jpg
DSCF4399_zps50b16122.jpg
DSCF4406_zpsf3198070.jpg
Put the steering column back in and stuffed the instrument cluster in the dash that still needs some work for a more finish look. Also worked on the air filter and intake, then prepared the battery box to mount where the blower fan use to mount.
DSCF4414_zps66b39e97.jpg
DSCF4410_zps8b1bdac1.jpg
DSCF4416_zpsd4f05bf9.jpg
DSCF4402_zps0c91e952.jpg
 
Can I tie the valve cover vents line together at the throttle body? Originally the passenger side valve went to the air intake tube and driver side goes to the throttle body, but now the air tube only has three ports and I need four.
 


Top