1UZFE/2UZFE into a 2nd Gen 4Runner (U.S.)

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Smitherz inspired me on the powdercoating...

Not exactly tech, but some progress. Pulled the motor apart again...load going for powdercoating... I had all the big stuff hot-tanked.

The cam covers and intake will be dark dark blue and the fuel rails and related stuff and nuts/bolts will be gloss black. The fins on top of the upper intake will be either silver PC or raw and polished/brushed. I plan to paint the plastic plug cover ridges to match (silver).

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I'm looking to clean up the engine bay a bit prior to the next time the motor gets dropped in.

Here's some mystery wiring:
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I think this was the igniter...
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This can come out - my wiring for the ADD solenoids (My ADD went away when I regeared and added ARB's)
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Need to shorten up the vacuum hose for the brake booster (I finally got the bolt out of my intake!) and also planning to replace the rear heat tubes (they are the rusty tubes below the booster)
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This will free up some room! Out with the ABS pump. The FROR full floater setup I plan to use isn't compatible with it anyway...
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So is there truth to the "only 5 wires to make it run" that I've been hearing? Anyone care to share which 5 they are? :)
 
Now that the easy part.

EB2 connector is a 3 pin connector and is near the igniter
EB1 connector is a 6 pin connector and is near the igniter
IJ2 connector is 17 pin connector near the ECU is dark gray, has 2 rows of pins.

You need swithced power to EB2(2). This is a black and orange wire.
You need swithced power to EB2(3). This is a black and red wire
You need switched power to IJ2(11). This is a black and orange wire.

You need constant power to EB1(4). This is a black and yellow wire


To start you need to supply "start" power to EB2(1) which is a black wire.

And of course you need to figure out what it takes to turn your fuel pump on. Different on every vehicle.


Now isn't that EASY!!!!
 
Thank You

very nice write up...
i am looking to install a doubler between a A343F and a gear to gear t/case which this unit has already. (1990 LJ78 Land cruiser)
the Marlin link you posted is down :ponder: and i could really use some guidence (parts you ended up using) to make this work...
if you can spare the time could you shoot me an email with this info?
[email protected]
once again a long but enjoyable read (started at midnight and finished in time to work this morning).
i was looking for a doubler info on the net and it lead me to this...WICKED
cheers
 
Now that the easy part.

EB2 connector is a 3 pin connector and is near the igniter
EB1 connector is a 6 pin connector and is near the igniter
IJ2 connector is 17 pin connector near the ECU is dark gray, has 2 rows of pins.

You need swithced power to EB2(2). This is a black and orange wire.
You need swithced power to EB2(3). This is a black and red wire
You need switched power to IJ2(11). This is a black and orange wire.

You need constant power to EB1(4). This is a black and yellow wire


To start you need to supply "start" power to EB2(1) which is a black wire.

And of course you need to figure out what it takes to turn your fuel pump on. Different on every vehicle.


Now isn't that EASY!!!!

Wow! That is easy! That is some awesome tech right there!!! Thanks!!
 
very nice write up...
i am looking to install a doubler between a A343F and a gear to gear t/case which this unit has already. (1990 LJ78 Land cruiser)
the Marlin link you posted is down :ponder: and i could really use some guidence (parts you ended up using) to make this work...
if you can spare the time could you shoot me an email with this info?
[email protected]
once again a long but enjoyable read (started at midnight and finished in time to work this morning).
i was looking for a doubler info on the net and it lead me to this...WICKED
cheers

Thank you! I'm heading out now, but will put together a pictorial overview of what is going on the output side. There are more sites/links about installing doublers out there too. I'll pull some of my bookmarks later and post them up.
 
Oh, also those mystery wires, they are not the alternator wires I mentioned, those are for the A/C fans. I just cut those wires out right as they go into the fuse box on the swap I am working on right now, and you can do the same.
 
OK, we're working through the Lexus control of the Toy trans currently. Anyone familiar with the Lexus control of the TCC solenoid? It appears to be PMW (pulse width modulated) control that is different than the Toy version. This Lexus TCC solenoid has 2 wires and the Toy one as 1 wire. Also, the Lexus one is about 2" bigger than the Toyota one (comparing a341e Lex trans vs a340h Toy trans).

If anyone can offer some insight, it would be much appreciated...
 
Thank you,
just to confirm this is the setup used on the A343F tranny and to the Toyota doubler...is this correct? then from the toyota doubler to a gear drive t/case is another adapter...
am i reading this right?
sorry for all the questions, i have not worked with an auto before...:Eyecrazy:
thankyou for this great thread again...
cheers
Wayne
 
You may want to call Marlin about the A343F (although it is probably the same). I'm using an A340F.

You are correct though, the order of components would be:

Transmission | 30-4GT V6 Adapter | Gear Drive Reduction Box | MC07 | Gear Drive T-Case
 
Sneak peak:

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It's a nice dark blue - nearly identical to the body color of my 4Runner - I think this pic is close to the real color.
IMG_2938%20(Medium).JPG


More to come!
 
Cool build - seen it when u started, I am going to do the same thing to my 2nd gen 4runner too (instead of the 3.4 I was going to do) you made me decide to do the V8 instead.

when my 2UZ is done in my FJ80 I will be following your lead.

look for PMs from me later!!!!

again thumbs up on the build
 


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