1UZ into HT Ute

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
I had a haltech on a injected one tonner i had and that wouldnt run the factory tacho.But i had a montsa tach and just wired it to the coil.Simple on single coil setups,could you not take -ve from both coils?
 
The dash tach normally needs the large voltage spike from the coil to trigger it. This spike on the primary side of the coil is caused by the EM field collapsing as the spark plug is fired. Connect the dash to one ignition coil negative and check that it reads half the current RPM, if so you can use the coil from a normal automotive relay to simulate the old ignition coil using the tacho output from the wolf - just remove the contactor inside as the high pitch clicking may drive you insane.
 
Thanks for the info maxpower. I tried it but the output current is not enough to trigger the relay or even make the tacho flicker. I tried manually energising the relay and the tacho needle moved about. Ive decided to fit the new tacho in place of the old tacho in the origional spot in the dash. I looks like it will be be a neat fit but the new tacho has a white face and the old is black and these tacho arnt available in a black face. Oh well cant have it all.
 
Yeah you need to use a small transistor to drive the coil, it can all be mounted inside the relay housing and use the original pins with some spade terminals to wire it in. Poss just be easier to use the aftermarket tach.
 
Went to the local dyno guy today. Sorry no graph as it was an older style watercooled setup. We wound it up to 7 psi and had trouble getting it to stop slipping as there is not much weight in a ute, so we sat a few cylinder heads and engine block in the back. Still wanted to slip with the aid of belt grip. The air fuel didnt seem to bad under boost, arround 12:1, but at cruise it was rich but i can sort this out on the road with someone else driving. The result was 320 rwhp before it started to slip with a bit more throttle left. The tuner seemed to think that 400rwhp would be closer to the mark if it would stop spinning the wheels.
Ive been driving it arround with about 12 psi boost before the dyno session and when I drove it home with 7 psi it seemed a lot slower.
I'II be keen to take it to a dyno place that can strap it down and feed in 12 psi.
Im about to post up a video clip on you tube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5fVbb-9uANU
Cheers kris.
 
thats awsome Mate!
double the power of mine at 320hp.
are you likely to run it down the 1/4mile soonish? it might motorvate me to get mine upto speed and run it.
does it break traction on the road or is the dyno very slipery? sounds nice on the dyno tooby the way thanks for the update
Dean
 
Dean,
The rollers were fairly slipery and shiny. I want to run it down the quarter in the next month or two. Will probably run at Heathcote at an event of some sort. Traction will be a problem as when 12 psi is dialed up its 2 wheel spin when the boost comes on when driving on dry bitumen. How is your machine going? I take it you havent sold it?

1uzvl,
I dont have any pics of my manifold set up. I used 2 log manifolds. On the drivers side manifold is connected to a cross over pipe that runs between the trans sump and the engine sump. It then runs up ontop of the left hand manifold and then a 90deg bend into the turbo. The passenger side manifold was cut off after the no 7 exhaust port and capped off. I then cut the front of the passenger side mainifold off and welded a 90 deg bend up into the turbo. The direction of the exhaust gass in the passenger side manifold flows from no 7 port to no 1 port and up into the turbo. Sorry I dont have and pics but hope this helps.

Cheers kris
 
never got a query when it was offered for sale, i like driving it so i'll finish it off one day. never seem to have any time or motivation.

i am going to fit pump up shocks in the rear to see if it stops it from squatting hard under launch and gearchange. it goes Vey well. and i will want to take it to calder as soon as i can prevent the tailshaft hitting the floor again.

Pity you are so far away i'd take a drive up otherwise.
will catch up one day though, thanks again for the update.
Dean
 
yeah cheers,just trying to get different ways of doin it,but most people are the same with log manifolds etc.Tell me,is any of this legal,has anyone got this stuff past the pits?Was talking to my engineer today and he said i would more than likely have to get it emission test even here in WA.
 
Just an update. I went to heathcote drag racing on saturday. It was a good day. The temp was a little high thru the day, arround 35deg, so times were a little slow. But in the evening it cooled off and made for some great racing. The crowd was down on numbers to what I was expecting but still a good attendance.
I had eleven runs and managed not to break anything that Im aware of. I was running old hard 295 street tyres on the rear so traction was a problem. My first run was a flat 14 sec @110, but the times kept droping with the more runs I did and got to learn how to get the traction down. My best time was 12.67 @119mph. I think if I got some slicks the time would be a little better as the mph indicates this, but if I get more grip I probably will break something in the driveline. I was happy with the results as all I wanted to do was get into the 12 secs. See ya kris
 
Hi Guys,

Just thought i would share a pic of what happenswhen you put 16.5 psi into a 1uz with small rods. It makes a hole in the side of the block and puts oil on the drag strip. not ideal. I did run a pb of over 121 mph though.
 

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Ya not wrong.... Will give me an excuse to put some rods and pistons into it now, change to e85, retune and get a glide behind it with a trans brake. Any one have a set of the argo rods and ross pistons they want to part with???
 
Ya not wrong.... Will give me an excuse to put some rods and pistons into it now, change to e85, retune and get a glide behind it with a trans brake. Any one have a set of the argo rods and ross pistons they want to part with???

we are doing a new engine in a few months, but, keeping the old one as a backup :p otherwise we'd probably sell off the whole engine.

shoot ash a PM he has some interesting methods of saving a few bucks using parts from other engine's etc. i think he uses a SBC rod which is half the price of an Argo and good for 1000hp+
 


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