1UZ into HT Ute

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krayn

Member
Messages
512
Location
Victoria, Australia
Did the bfi intake job to the front of the air box. Blocked off the origional air intake as it was sucking air right beside the radiator. Seems to have picked up preformance a little but sounds lots better with a louder induction noise. I can actually hear the enginge sucking in air which may give the impression that it has more power. Some steering mods to come next.
 

krayn

Member
Messages
512
Location
Victoria, Australia
Got a rough weight measurment done yesterday at the local tip/recyclers. It weighed in at 1370kg with a quarter of a tank of fuel. With the chev it weighed in at around 1410kg. I was hoping for at least 50kg weight saving in the conversion but I suppose the tranny is a bit heavyer than the powerglide and then there is the extras of fuel pumps cat converters wiring ect.
Also when we were out there I found a pair of second hand 295/50/15 Kelly tyres with a fair ammount of tread left. We fitted them up last night and to our amazement they do not scrub anywhere. Didnt cost a cent to do but it does look a bit better than the 205/65/15. Its probably not the best fit on a 7 inch rim but it will be ok for a short time........
 

Peewee

Moderator
Messages
2,637
Location
Perth, Western Australia
I don't know how the powerglide compares to the TH700 gbox, but the Toyota auto's are almost half the weight.
I can pretty much lift the A340E by myself, whereas 2 of us struggle with the TH700.

I think you'll find the iron v8's aren't quite as heavy as most people think.
Its really only the big blocks that have a huge amount of weight in them.
 

Zuffen

Super Moderator
Staff member
Messages
5,465
Location
Sydney, Australia
Peewee,

I think we all get suckered on this Iron block alloy block thing and forget that our engine has 3 more cams aqnd 16 more valves, springs and retainers plus no doubt a heavier crank.

I think we gain on the block and lose on the internals.

That said I wouldn't swap my 1UZ for an LS1.
 

deankdx

Member
Messages
489
Location
geelong, Victoria, Australia
krayn said:
Its all up and running.. Not too keen on the rpm at which the computer shifts gears so if I want to drive it hard I still shift it manually.
kris, if you could please help? i need to know how you got the trans to shift automatically. i looked at (which i plan to buy) an XF falcon today with 1UZ motor and AUTO its been running for a year in this way (no enginneers cert yet) but the way the owner has had to drive it(and how i drove it) is you put selecter in first(it fluked it big time that the column shift from falcon auto fitted straight up to crown box) drive up to desired speed/revs then select second with shifter then for third gear flick a toggle swicth and for overdrive select drive(assuming crown selector has P N R D 2 1 and overdrive switch)

how does yours work normally this guy was talking about cutting all but one tooth off a gear for speed sensor insde box??
by the way it is fitted with 2.92 diff ratio and takes off about as good as a 250 crossflow auto antill @ 2500ish it really goes. tach not hooked up and speedo reads 180km/h at around 100km/h actual
 

krayn

Member
Messages
512
Location
Victoria, Australia
Dean, I got a half cut and used the origional ecu and hooked it up as per the wiring diag. The speed sensor on mine goes straight to the ecu and depending on what ecu the falcon is using it may have come from a vehicle where the speed sensor (from the tranny) goes to the dash speedo circuit then comes back out to the auto ecu, and I think that once it comes out of the dash speedo the pulses have been reduced by a quarter. this maybe why he thinks that knocking the other three teeth of the sensor in the tranny may help. Kdog may be able to shed some more light on the subject.
 

krayn

Member
Messages
512
Location
Victoria, Australia
I took the ute for a spin tonight to make shure all is well for the drags on Sunday. It was laking power and was running a little ruff. I didnt know where to start, so started with fuel. On the return line I have a section of clear hose and could see bubbles in the fuel on the return line. I traced it back to the origional pickup from the fuel tank. It had a slight split in the pick up half way up. This would also explain why with a full tank of fuel it ran a little better as this section of the pick up would be submeged in fuel. I had an old pick up lying arround, put it in and It goes like a rocket again. So on the list of things to do is a surge tank.
 

deankdx

Member
Messages
489
Location
geelong, Victoria, Australia
krayn said:
I took the ute for a spin tonight to make shure all is well for the drags on Sunday. It goes like a rocket again. .

getting close for me to get to Calder also, maybe as soon as next friday,
are you still running the 3.08 diff? my 3.45 has woken up the four cam nicely, still no wheel spin on take off(exept in the wet and lots of it)
heathcote is pretty far for me, so its unlikely i'd ever race there. wll you post results 60foot,time and MPH that will be great.
 

thefastj

New Member
Messages
346
Location
Australia, Melbourne
krayn - have you seen the flyers for the Holden only drag day they are having up at heathcote towards the end of feb??

only $40 to race i think it was.

be a good occasion to get a time and show all the holden boys just what 4L can do. ; )

if you want i can scan the flyer and post it..

it is on a saturday.... if it was sunday i was gonna run my commy again but have work sat so ah well..
 

krayn

Member
Messages
512
Location
Victoria, Australia
Dean, Im still running the 3.08 ratio, but this will be swapped in the next few weeks allong with a LSD carrier. Im onto a nissan pintara diff that is the same BTR type diff as mine but has 4.11 ratio. (if any one here has a BTR 78 lsd carrier or 4.11 or 3.9 ratio gears and want to sell, drop me a line) This should wake things up a little. Some may say 4.11 is a little high but this vehicle gets little h'way use and in any case the standard ratio the crown came out with was arround 3.9. If I get print outs ect of times I will post them up. I think my 60 foot times will be very high as it bogs down off the linebut once the revs are up it takes off fairly well.

Fastj, I havent seen the flyers but I probably will be working too if it is on Sat. I still may not have my diff gears in by then, as the next time I run it I want to have the 4.11 ratio too see what sort of difference it makes.
Cheers Kris
 

krayn

Member
Messages
512
Location
Victoria, Australia
Got a diff out of pintara and stole the gears out of it. I was hoping for 4.11 gears but it turned out to be a 3.7 ratio diff. Will try this but I think it needs to be a littler higher ratio for the quarter mile set up
 

deankdx

Member
Messages
489
Location
geelong, Victoria, Australia
krayn said:
Got a diff out of pintara and stole the gears out of it. I was hoping for 4.11 gears but it turned out to be a 3.7 ratio diff. Will try this but I think it needs to be a littler higher ratio for the quarter mile set up

i think it will make a HUUUGE difference for you, mine from 2.92 to 3.45 made impessive take off, so in hindsight seeing theres no wheelspin i probably should have gone 3.7 or 3.9 but i will enjoy driving mine everywhere once its all sorted and possibly do the 600km a week my other car is doing so i can sell that and get enough money to fix up my house a bit.
it would be good to see the difference of the tall diff compared only to the ratio change but i understand the hassels of getting down the strip.
you must be running a commodore type diff, as the pintara gears fit on the 2.92 lsd falcon centre i'm sure also. cortina 4cyl had 3.77 which i was also considering(providing they fit)
 

krayn

Member
Messages
512
Location
Victoria, Australia
Dean,
The diff Im running is out of a vp commodore, its a BTR 78 series. It is a borg warner diff but this diff is made by BTR which apparently bought out borg warner. I went this way as a 9 inch is too heavy and expensive. A BTR can handle a fair ammount of abuse in its four pinion LSD type and parts are easy to get as this style of diff has been used for years in a number of different car manufactures. also the idea of having disc brake was appealing. I got the 3.7 ratio diff on ebay for $61. Cheap when you consider new gears are close to $600
I am confident as you also found that this ratio change will wake it up. I think 3.7 ratio wil be a cood comprimise between preformance and economy, but I would rather preformance than anything else. I have a feeling that even 4.11 ratio would still not be tall enough for the quarter.
I think wheel spin will be an issue as at the moment I have 295/15 inch tyres on the rear and have slight spin at take off if I stand straight on the throttle. This is with an open diff though. Kris
 

mesuite77

New Member
Messages
1
Location
Brisbane, Aust.
lexus V8 into HK

Kris

I am interested in the changes you have done as I am considering similar mods for my HK monaro.

Did you try the CRS engine mounts and weren't happy with the height or just decided to make your own as you wanted the engine as low as possible/save cost?

Did you fabricate the rack and pinion conversion yourself or just buy an off the shelf conversion (eg CRS)? If CRS or similar how would you rate the quality of the conversion and did it fit well with the lexus engine? Did you manage to sort the binding in the steering column uni's?

Which sump did you use (front, mid or rear pan) and did you have to modify it to make the sump fit?

Any traps you would suggest to someone looking at this conversion to beware of?
 

krayn

Member
Messages
512
Location
Victoria, Australia
The reason I made my own engine mount was based on the fact that when I spoke to CRS He indicated that there design were designed to fit a 1uz into the HQ series of Holden. They probably would have still fitted but I didnt have a lot of room to play with height wise. So I designed my own to make the motor sit as low as possible and sit the engine in the right spot so the transmition would fit a little easyer. The engine could have sat another 100mm back but I would have to relocate the wiper motor and the trans would be a tighter fit. Also I wanted to make as much of the conversion stuff as I like fabrication work and also dont have a lot of cash.

The rack and pinion set up turned out ok. The only problem is that I have lost a little of my turning circle and still have not sorted the binding problem, although I have not yet tried to fix it, just other jobs have taken priority. But im confident that I will be able to fix it by moving the nuckle further towards the steering wheel. The set up was designed by me. I made all the brackets and welded it in to try and minimise bump steer. The rack is a VH commodore power steer. But I would be tempted to use the CRS kit next time but you may find that there will be minimall room for the custom sump. I made the rack as close as possible the suspension cross member so the sump could be as big as possible. As it is the sump on mine is on the small side of optimal size.

The sump was also cutom made by myself out of 3 mm sheet steel and a 10mm profile cut base plate that bolts to the engine. There is other posts
here how I made it. Do a search under sump.
Hope this all helps. There are no real traps with this conversion. The origional idea I had was to do the conversion into the ute and transfere all the motor ect into a HK monaro, but I have decided to do the monaro back to origional as I couldnt come at the Idea of changing the monaro, Kris
 

krayn

Member
Messages
512
Location
Victoria, Australia
Finnaly got the 3.7 ratio LSD into the ute. It has made a noticable difference and gets off the line a bit quicker. With 225/55/16 tyres it spins a little then bites in and takes off. No leaks yet and there is no whine comming from the diff but have been noticing a fair ammount of whining comming from the house about the time Im spending in the shed. Its hard to keep them happy. It was a fairly cheap exercise, all up about $300, including gears and lsd centre. Better than arround $1200 I was quoted for a shop to do. Im off to Heathcote this weekend, not to race but watch, its the LS1 nationals. Cheers.
 

krayn

Member
Messages
512
Location
Victoria, Australia
I got a custom speedo cable made from Castlemaine rod shop ($55.00) that adapts the a341e trans to the HT speedo. I was not sure weather the speedo would read anywhere near where it should. With 3.7 diff gears the speedo reads about 63 - 64 MPH at 100Km/h. Checked the actuall speed with a GPS unit, any one know how accurate these are? I am stoked, what a fluke that it turned out so close. I expected it to be anywhere between 20-40 mph out.
Going out to Heathcote this Sunday and will run the quarter mile to see what changes the diff gears have done.. Cheers Kris
 

Peewee

Moderator
Messages
2,637
Location
Perth, Western Australia
You can test what speed you are doing with a tacho that is accurate.
If you dont have one, borrow a mates autometer, and set it to 4cyls.

Then put the car in Drive, get to say 2000 or 3000 rpm, and note the speed.

The work out the actually speed with maths and the diff ratio, tyre size and aspect ratio.
 
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