1uz has fuel, spark , cranks but won't fire??

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teedo

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44
Location
New Zealand
Just as the title says, I had it running the day before yesterday perfect, now went to start it up yesterday and it continuously cranks without firing. If anything it puts away occasionally and sounds like it wants to fire but it doesnt.... Any ideas guys? Ive checked everything and cant find anything out of place..:06:
 
Ive checked the fuel in a number of places now, the pump works great, at the inlet to the engine flow is good and at the return fuel flow is good and on inspection the plugs are wet too. With the AFM even if there is something wrong there it should still run rough shouldnt it? Im really stummped as the van hasnt even moved from the garage since the last time it fired up??
 
If the plugs are wet they may not fire.

Check you have spark on all four cylinders on one bank. This will confirm both distributors are working.

If you have spark try a fresh set of plugs.

Is the engine in an LS or SC?

If it's a swap I'd suspect you have a wiring problem.
 
If the plugs are wet they may not fire.

Check you have spark on all four cylinders on one bank. This will confirm both distributors are working.

If you have spark try a fresh set of plugs.

Is the engine in an LS or SC?

If it's a swap I'd suspect you have a wiring problem.

Sorry about the late reply here, been away for work... The engine is from a 1990 Celcior, Ive got full sparks on both banks and the plugs in it are brand new as I did everything like cam belt, plugs , waterpump, etc. before starting the conversion.

The battery has had alot off full charges and still nothing changes, she has a healthy crank but doesn't want to fully fire. L Ive had a mate around who is a mechanic in our local Toyota dealership and he is abit stumped at this too, he tried to get a code out of the diagnostics plug with a test light with no luck so at some stage this week he will be popping in with his diagnostics test kit.. see what happens then.. He thinks it is deff. a wiring fault possibly a stuffed ECU?
 
Has it ever ran since it has been fitted? Who did the wiring? Cheers

Hey Kelvin,
I sent the loom to Motorsport auto electric up in Welly, Yeah it has started up a number of times before this happened, when we first got it going it had a similar issue ,changed the plugs and it went. I cant imagine it would have gone through those plugs already as the van hasnt moved as far as the driveway . I have puled the plugs and inspected em for spark and it all looks fine.
 
When my old motor first ran it would foul the plugs in less than 5 minutes of running.

Try another set of plugs.

They don't have to be the correct plug as long as they fit and work.

At least this will remove your existing plugs from the equation.

You didn't say if it had run AFTER the new timing belt.

The engine could be 90 or 180 degrees out in the firing order.
 
When my old motor first ran it would foul the plugs in less than 5 minutes of running.

Try another set of plugs.

They don't have to be the correct plug as long as they fit and work.

At least this will remove your existing plugs from the equation.

You didn't say if it had run AFTER the new timing belt.

The engine could be 90 or 180 degrees out in the firing order.

Ok Ill give some new plugs a go, the timing belt ,waterpamp, rotors , dizzy caps ,etc were changed long before the first start up. I'm pretty much willing to try anything now I really want to drive it lol!
 
maybe try a new auto elect hehehe

if u dont have 12v at +b in the diagnostic plug then u have a wiring problem
or a blown efi fuse

but if u have spark it means ecu is on
so something is wrong there
diagnostic plug or error codes prob wont tell u much
the "w" wire in the diagnostic plug usually doesnt get wired up if they dont know what they are doing as its an extra wire

do u have a wire near the ecu that flashes the check engine light

sounds like they didnt hook up the diagnostic wire
and with past experience u might have hassles getting any info form the diagnostic plug in the engine bay
i always have to get the diagnostic plug thats under the dash and wire that in to near the ecu
its the only way a diagnostic scanner will read live data

anyway good luck with it
diagnosing stuff sux butts
 
Teedo - sounds like fouled plugs will get it running but that might only be a sign of other problems. As sideshow said the diagnostic plug on the engine doesnt give live data. When we wire an engine we put a connector by the ECU then have a workshop diagnostic plug with the same plug to connect to it. Makes it easy for us to work on them. Good luck with that. Cheers
 
I had a recent experience with a 3RZ which is the 2.7 with waste spark. I had been driving it in and out of my shed each day and the motor was not warming up and was running rich as it was cold. It was starting to miss on startup. One day when I went to start it ,it would not fire even though I had not been near the car all day. The plugs had stopped working. Being waste spark you would only need 2 crook plugs to kill the motor. The new plugs I put in work and the motor runs again and now I do not need the forklift to tow it around.
 
Finally got it going this evening!! Thanks for the suggestions and help everyone, much appreciated. I went out and got some basic NGK V-power plugs just to test out and it fired up straight away. Im pretty surprised as it blazed through a set of NGK double platinum's in no time at all. Deffinatly something wrong there.....

maybe try a new auto elect hehehe

if u dont have 12v at +b in the diagnostic plug then u have a wiring problem
or a blown efi fuse

but if u have spark it means ecu is on
so something is wrong there
diagnostic plug or error codes prob wont tell u much
the "w" wire in the diagnostic plug usually doesnt get wired up if they dont know what they are doing as its an extra wire.......

Teedo - sounds like fouled plugs will get it running but that might only be a sign of other problems. As sideshow said the diagnostic plug on the engine doesnt give live data. When we wire an engine we put a connector by the ECU then have a workshop diagnostic.........

Yeah your both spot on with this, the diagnostic plug isn't connected at all, truthfully the loom is a mess I'm now looking towards a standalone unit not only to clean things up but to help eliminate any future issues. There is no other plug for diagnostics near the ECU.
 


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