1UZ-FE powered Bowler Tomcat

[StacytheBloke]

Hi i'm new, i'm based in the UK and am currently building a 1UZ-FE powered Bowler Tomcat off road racer

I have all sorts of interesting challenges ahead so no doubt i will be on the hunt for advice. First job is to get the engine running on the bench, should be fun with the usual cut loom. (though luckily the donor car was at the breakers as well so i was able to salvage the other half) The ecu version i have is the 89661-50160 out of an LS400 which has the four grey multi plugs (34p, 22p, 16p and 28p) most of re joining the loom is proving fairly straight forward however i do have some wires that are the same colour and i have yet to source a wiring diagram for this particular version, i am using the lexus auto box btw, any help on finding this diagram would be much apreciated.

Also any advice on creating a good neat soldered joint in the screened coaxial cables bearing in mind my wiring has got to be up to off road standards.

Oh and has anyone mated the auto box with a Borg warner chain drive transfer box (later version not used in the range rover classic) from a 2002 p38 range rover. Was thinking about a new tail housing with a flange to accept the BW box and either a conversion shaft or a new primary shaft in the transfer bow to accept the spline on the toyota auto box

Thanks in advance for any advice

 

[Zuffen]

I find the best way to solder the co-ax is to srtip the outer sheat off for a good 30mm each side of the join.

Use heatshrink (but keep it away from the soldered joint and hold the wire with longnosed pliers to act as a heatsink to stop the heatshrink getting hot) once the joint is made and has no sharp protrusions slide the shrink over the joint and heat it up.

Take your time so the joint is cold before you try moving the heathrink.

Use some co-ax outer to joint the cut outer sheating and use more heatshirink over the whole deal.

To make it race safe try cabble tying the joined wires to something that will stop any vibration at the joint.

The adaptor you speak of has been made in Australia (at least once) and a few people are going down a simillar route at the moment.

I'll PM your information to a few people and see if they can help.