1UZ-FE attached to LS

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

Fernvalley

New Member
Messages
4
Location
Corryton, Tennessee, USA
Yes basically I have a 1999 LS400 basically stock w/ 126k and I kept the car just because. Just started cleanning it up - put a new 1000 amp bat in her and cranked it up. Been doing this (starting) every month for a year. I have had the car since 2003 (43K) I plan to replace the timing items, alternator, pullys etc during this winter. Might consider other items especially after spending some time reading here. This will be slow going since I have many other hobbies. This will be my retirement ride some day.

Fern
 
You may have just buggered it up ?? Now you said that... Aha...
Mine's at 16 years and 270,000, original, and it still works, although I did replace the brushes last year for the heck of it. The brush replacement job was preventative, and the brush and holder only cost like $4.00 or something, including shipping, from eBay - and it took a very short amount of time to install.
 
Were the alt parts OEM?

If not how much would the parts have cost through Sewell or other OEM source?

Reason for asking is I find the OEM to be outstanding from oil and air filters on up... BUT... non OEM to be questionable and not worth/hardly worth the savings. I have the Arnott upper control arms. They are 2 years old and the bushings are SHOT... bad deal. That said 2 of them are $200 vs $500 for one OEM. Since I have a lifetime warranty and can wrench myself l try them again. IMO Lexus is missing a decent parts business by pricing OEM for older models at such rediculous rates. They SHOULD offer replacement bushings and ball joints. Say $20 per ball joint and $30 per bushing would give a price of $160 for parts. Add say $50 for a shop to press in the bushings. R/R would be the same so that cost is a wash. Many younger and lower income people now own LS and GS models that would go this route rather than either going aftermarket or doing NOTHING.

I did purchase a radiator, timing belt and tensioner bearings and water pump, all OEM on eBay so that is a good option IF the parts are genuine OEM.
 
When I first got my car, I used to insist on OEM parts. Now that it's so old and worthless, any money spent on OEM when an aftermarket part can be purchased for 1/4 to 1/10 the price is pretty much wasted.
My brush and holder was a cheap Chinese piece that probably cost $.05 to make. But the genuine ND part probably cost about $.10 to make, but they want $25-30 for it.

When it comes to suspension - I agree, it's worth getting genuine. That's what I've done, on principle. Lower ball joints, struts, etc, all OEM. But a cheap brush in an old alternator while I was putting the supercharger on, and only took 10 minutes of my time to install - I think that getting the cheap one was money well spent, and if the alternator dies, then I'll just replace the whole thing, because the rest of the parts in the alternator are also already old and it's not worth my time to change them.

So to answer your question, the fleabay part was almost free and took no additional time for me to install, and the OEM part was about $25-30 or so.
 
... I would like to retract my previous post. The genuine alternator brush and holder can be bought for $13.74 from Lexus of Pembroke Pines. The eBay brush and holder is about $10. If I were to do this again, I would have purchased the genuine part.
 
With suspension bushes .. There are good and bad.. I guess it still comes down to what you pay for ??..
Some time back I spent quite a bit to find the bushes broke up after 12 months or so... So another $400 on slightly so called better bushes..
 
Been out of town. Anyway I replaced the Alternator this past wkend. What was happening is I heard a whinning noise and the battery signal came on. One point to note is I work for the OEM producer of the Alternator. Unfortunately we do not make the H20 pump and belts so when I do the Timing belt I will have to buy at public pricing. Due to my supplier relationship with Toyota and Lexus, the local dealer is offering me a good discount.

Followed a shop manual I found on this forum and even though I got the old atlernator out from the bottom, it was much easier to get the new in from the top. Classic move of the SP forward enough to get to the alternator off of the top stud. Detailed everything as i went. Estimate the removel and replacement of about 30 screws, nuts and bolts. Not to many parts left over;)

Fern
 
Oh and thanks for the responses. My interest is in what next. I have detailed out the car and it looks really good. I would be very interested in experimenting to get the MPG up. I have always been impressed with the 26 average that i was getting when I was driving the car. 60 miles round trip to work and back. Basically 30 miles in 30 minutes (all highway).

The alternator is the first thing I have replaced other than the liquids and filters. Of course there is now a new drive belt also.
 
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