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Holy smokes. Just wow. (and in bad tune, as well?!)

steve--thanks for the input. When you say you switched from Daizen to rubber, do you mean Vlamos, or other?

I can't think of any units these days that don't have this feature--should be pretty universal to hand over "control" to the key in the "on" position once you hit the brake, hence ending the remote start timed algorithm.

Yup--the TAC wire was indeed correct--although it didn't register the voltage range that the DEI install manual wanted, the "tach learn" feature on the DEI learned the signal immediately. It has worked perfectly for 0 degree morning longer crank cycles, to very short crank cycles on a warm...

Jibby--you crack me up with your racing antics. But glad you're out there representing some of the potential of the 1UZ.

How close is the GTech to a chassis dyno? I know it *should* read lower since it is reading "road HP" which accounts for aerodynamics, but do you guys think it's fairly accurate? Of course, if you're using this to quantify upgrade gains, you're fine since you have a baseline to compare on the...

Update? Outcome? Come on, it's well past Christmas already!

OK, so from what I have gathered, these are the options available: 1. Daizen polyurethane bushings. Pros: cheap, easiest to replace. Cons: squeak squeak, and possible adverse effect on ride harshness? 2. Vlamos. Pros: great ride, maintain trademark Lexus NVH. Cons: more difficult to...

The black TAC wire worked just fine, and provides the perfect crank whether cold or warm engine. I've had a remote start on every car I've owned and never once had a problem with starter grinding, overcranking, etc. Even after remote starting, I just hop in, turn the key to ON and take over...

OK--wasn't as cold this morning as I expected, but still cold enought to require a longer crank cycle. The TAC signal was indeed correct, as the remote starter applied a longer crank to the engine--~2 seconds. Once it was warmed up, it significantly shortened the cycle to less than 1 second...

Thanks Mad. Any idea what the connector by the driver's left shin is used for?

I got it wired up using the TAC wire, and it starts just fine under warmer conditions. Morning should tell whether this signal is correct, when it needs a longer crank cycle at 15 degrees F. BTW, where is this check connector--driver's side foot well or in the engine compartment?

Despite getting an AC signal that is supposedly not what the remote starter wants to see, as far as I can tell from wiring diagrams, etc. this is the correct wire. We'll see if the remote start wigs out when it gets this signal.

Thanks Rod. To clarify: I found a wiring diagram: on the "igniter with the extra wire," the middle wire is black/white stripe labeled "IGT" on the wiring diagram, but one of the wires next to it is solid black and labeled "TAC". It's the "TAC" wire that will provide the needed signal, no?

I need to find a tach signal for a remote start install, and the location is supposed to be the black wire running from the ignitor. I thought the signal was supposed to be an AC signal from 1-6V depending on RPM? However, when I tap into the black wire at the ignitor, the AC signal just jumps...

Oz--we need more guys like you over on our side of the pond!

I'm also interested in what kind of upgrades to the auto tranny are required for ~300-350 RWHP

David--any updates on latest state of tune and of course, the requisite dyno numbers?

I certainly don't want to start any kind of flame war, but am curious why the Richwood kits are always mentioned but not Neil's Rush kits--is it because Richwood is a sponsor? For those with experience, what are the differences between the kits in terms of quality, etc? Really trying to learn...

Where can one find larger diameter crank pulleys?