Recent content by Thomas DK

well, anyone interested? [email protected]

uh, what price do you have in mind? incl. mail to DK.

Did you have a looksee?

That would be nice:D

Juddy27677 what ECU are You running - i've got the engine wireharness diagram for the 3x40pin ECU

I need a 3x40pin ECU - OEM: 89661-24220 Lets hear what You got, and in wich part of the world.

Yes, You're right. One has to do a little math before inserting a bulb instead of a fuse. But its very simple. I dont belive multimeters when searching shorts or open in circuits using fuses bigger than approx 5-10 amp. blowing a 2 amp fuse, and You can light up a 12volt*2amp=24watt...

A video the "homeland" of the windmills. This is a warning to all of You - keep our brakes up to date or.... No brakes!!!

I like sideshows method - removing the fuse. But...:D I prefer to put in a wired up bulb instead of the fuse. As long as You got a short, it will light up. Now start disconneting the parts belonging to the fuse. Once it goes off... - Ta-daaaa!!;)

Problem solved - ECU is DEAD:mad: Thanks a lot dudes for input

pics right after easter. I'm out racing B-) Its been running perfect a few times, so I'm not suspecting the injectors. And I would they be able to turn off the engine check light?

Fuel pressure ok. MAP sensor?? The engine is not in a vehicle at the moment, but wired up correct(I suppose...):D Proper ground on engine, igniters and both headers(from harness), + to the Black/Yellow Black/orange and Black/red in engine bay, and crank signal to black. I've messured...

When I turn the ign. on the checklight wont come on, but the engine will fire up anyway. Then it stalls emidiatly and now the check light is on. when I crank it again it keeps running(again with check light on), but stalls when I try to increase RPM. Its not giving any errorcodes away, not...