Recent content by Nick M

Runs bad when cold and fine when at operating temps? Have you checked for any DTC's? The AF when cold is supposed to be rich anyway, but check for those codes. Your engine might just be getting worn.

Restalling the converter won't effect shifting. Get the valve body modified from the link for IPT provided. That will shift much quicker, and make the trans more reliable with stronger holding of the clutch packs.

Go through your fuse box, including the large ones under the hood for the alternator. You let the magic smoke out. And next time, don't hook the cables up backwards, and it won't smoke. If you didn't hook them up backwards, you have a direct ground, also called a short to ground.

The wreckers? Is that the same as a tow truck driver or wrecker driver? They are full of shit more often than not.

Typical Toyota is to share the filtered ground (E2). Do you have the EWD for EFI control?

I just started your thread. Did you do that welding to stiffen the chasis? Assuming so, how do you like it if you have done it before?

Yep. The Supras had the 340 and the Celsior (LS) had the 341. Different gearing. 2.8 vs 2.5. Approximately.

.82 is sized nicely for a 7M. Go with the 1.06 as suggested. You will have a very broad powerband.

I have a Comp Turbo product, but it isn't oilless. That is done because a car didn't come with a factory unit, not because it is better. Grease has more friction than redline, andy way you try to spin. They are not sold for performance upgrades, even if they market it that way. NGT was later...

Oh, ok. I guess I better take them back out.

http://www.corral.net/tech/brakehp.html And as for the earlier comments (2004) it does work. All the formulas do is hp in reverse. Horsepower is calculated, not measured. Torque is measured, the hp is calculated. Distance, weight, and time.

The factory Toyota injectors are 550cc low resistance(impedance).

So it really feels like volume of fuel is limited, and not spark timing or PCM limiting the speed. It is hard to say without putting my hands on it. If there isn't a control problem, then something is restricting engine airflow, and as such, the PCM just isn't delivering the volume of fuel...

So, he didn't check one of two things. The sensor, and the circuitry needed to deliever the signal to the ECU. Or PCM in the case of 96 and newer. You still have the car? Was the actual engine timing checked?

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h48.pdf Page 1 of 12, shows importance, or strategy. This guys online stuff is lifted straight from manuals like Engine Control Systems. There are various years and updates from TCCS through OBDII.