The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
@George_R you should consider expanding into South Africa. We probably have more 1/2/3uz swap than anywhere else in the world (maybe Russia comes in a wee bit higher) but you get what I'm saying. Are you on the Lexus V8 Enthusiasts International group on FB? That's a great platform to market this service you offer
 
The dimsport unit didn't work and after a lot of trying, we have given up on it. I strongly caution anyone who is considering getting involved with TTFS or Frank Smith.

@George_R, I just emailed Quantum Auto to see how we arrange doing a 06 SC430 remap. If I need to find a spare ECU I can do that, but it sounds like they may have some to sell. Is this the best way or should I work with you directly?
 
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I believe today's options are
1 You send your unit directly to me
2 You buy a ready to go unit from quantum auto
3 You send your (or spare) ecu to quantum auto , it's kept there as core, and you get another ecu back
 
I believe today's options are
1 You send your unit directly to me
2 You buy a ready to go unit from quantum auto
3 You send your (or spare) ecu to quantum auto , it's kept there as core, and you get another ecu back

I think #2 is probably best. I contacted them on their website yesterday but I'm still waiting to hear back.

A couple quick questions, on the quantum site they give you some options. (https://quantum-auto.com/ols/products/toyota-and-lexus-ecu-services)

1) Does "make manual" mean to convert to a manual transmission?
2) there's an option to change what temp the radiator fans kick on, do you know the stock temp?
3) what is the stock rev limiter, 6000? what is a safe setting to raise it to?
 
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This is not his main activity, so you will have to wait.
1 yes
2 stock is 95-103 C (min speed to max speed)
3 6450. As stock power peak is at 5600 rpm, there's no reason to raise the limiter at all, unless it's m/t application for offroad or drifting
 
This is not his main activity, so you will have to wait.
1 yes
2 stock is 95-103 C (min speed to max speed)
3 6450. As stock power peak is at 5600 rpm, there's no reason to raise the limiter at all, unless it's m/t application for offroad or drifting


Thank you, that is very helpful. He replied yesterday confirming he has the 06+ SC430 ecu in stock. I placed my order yesterday.


Just to confirm, this is the same thing that chops got from you, correct? VVTI tuning and all that?
 
Yes exactly, I will use the same maps to modify stock firmware, then Brandon will flash it into his ecu and send it your way
 
3 6450. As stock power peak is at 5600 rpm, there's no reason to raise the limiter at all, unless it's m/t application for offroad or drifting

George, I don't know if it was done due to the modified shift points on my stock 5-speed auto or something else, but before you tuned ECU, my car always shifted right around 6k rpm, just barely over 6k in 1st gear, and just slightly under in every other gear. Now with the tuned ECU, all shifts are just under 6500 rpm (6450). It's quite a nice bonus as this bone stock LS430 pulls strong and hard all the way up to that point. I for one am NOT complaining about the higher rev limited/shift points. In fact, it's quite welcome!

I only wish this trans could shift even firmer and quicker, like a newer, more modern transmission. Even though your tuning improved the shifting quite a bit, it's still a somewhat slow and sluggish (luxury) shifting transmission. I guess anything beyond your tuning would require "physical" tuning such as modifying the valve body and such. I know there used to be some kits out there for doing just that, but I don't know if those kits are still available. If they are, I would definitely consider buying one and having my mechanic install it. He's built and maintained race cars all his life, so something like this would be nothing for him.
 
can be done using a modded valve body
I do have one but idk how to ship it for reasonable price ( i.e. it's bulky)
 
can be done using a modded valve body
I do have one but idk how to ship it for reasonable price ( i.e. it's bulky)

George, if you can let me know at your leisure, it's fine with me. I just started work after one and a half months off due to a work injury, so funds a little tight at the moment, but I am DEFINITELY interested in that modified valve body.

Is there anything I need to know about it as far as issues or anything else with the rest of the driveline? Anything need to be adjusted in the tune on my ECU?



Does it electronically lock the rear differential into a sweet limited slip?! :p ;)
 
I think 300 usd + shipping, I expect EMS to be 1-2 months and about 100 usd
manufacturer https://vk.com/garage_sxe

What can you tell me about the actual valve body that you have there that you're referring to (that I am most likely going to purchase from you very soon). What all is done to it and what can I expect drive-ability wise? Does this valve body also raise the line pressures? Obviously, I don't know much of anything about them myself, hence all the questions.

Plus, as this is my daily driver, I need to know that it's a reliable unit and that it won't cause any issues.

Thanks George!
 
It mostly achieves much quicker shifts and 1-2 engagement is firmer compared to stock. Also, you will have engine braking instead of neutral when lifting acc.pedal in 4,5 gears. It is reliable and been tested in quite a few cars. I bought it for 3uz 5-speed gearbox for myself but I'm unlikely to fit it in next year or two (I have 1uz vvti , its transmission has slightly different valve body, the plan was to replace ecu and transmission at once)
 
So quicker shifts for all gears?

Only 1st to 2nd is firmer? What about 2nd to 3rd, or 3rd to 4th?

What's the point/purpose of having engine braking in 4th and 5th? So does that mean in 3rd and lower, it just drops to neutral like stock?

Was this an actual kit of some kind or a custom job by done a shop?

Does any of this make the torque converter react any differently?

Also, do those accumulators "buckets and springs" in the transmission need to be shimmed up at all?

Are there any posts, threads or websites discussing these same valve body mods on the A650E?

Again, sorry for all of the questions. You have to remember, this is the very first vehicle that I have owned with an automatic transmission. Ever since I started driving and buying vehicles in 1993, every single one has been a manual transmission
 
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I have posted two URLs, but you will have to use google translation service
There's no market for the service outside Russia so no reason of having international website

All shifts are firmer and quicker, but 1-2 is most noticeable as stock setting is CVT-like

No need of shimming

Just undo old one install new one, however the process of replacing the VB is a bit tricky as the accumulators will fall down after VB removal
 
Well George, if you want to send me a PM with a total for the VB and shipping, we can get things rolling and you can get that VB shipped out.

Three final questions...

1) Installing this VB, will it totally eliminate that slipping, mushy shift up and down? I hate that feeling of this transmission and hope this completely eliminates it. I want nice, quick, positive shifts. And when I floor it, I want it to kick down almost immediately. But again, anything is better than it is stock.

2) So you say shimming the accumulators is not needed. Is it recommended to not shim them with a modified VB or does the modified VB compensate for shimmed accumulators?

3) Running this modified VB... Will it throw any kind of CEL code? Probably not but thought I should ask.

I just want to make sure, because if we're going to pull the transmission to install the new VB, I figure we should do the shimming at the same time as well instead of having to do it later down the road.

I've watched a few videos of people shimming the accumulators, but they were still running the stock VB, and only turning up the line pressure to the third (highest) notch.
 
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is it ok for you to wait 1-2 months for EMS, or should I get fedex quote? fedex will be probably overpriced for the weight of the unit

1 Almost completely
2 No need to shim anything, and manufacturer does not recommend doing it
3 No codes at all , and in 5-speed cars you reset a/t settings by merely disconnecting battery for a while (in newer cars, scan tool is required)
 


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