The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Just a minor update...

I do believe there's a healthy bit of additional power as it seems to be much more effortless getting up to speed in typical city driving (up to 50 mph) with no additional rpms over before. It just gets up and goes with a little extra thrust pushing you into the seat. The transmission behaves much better now, a little quicker, a little firmer. It's not slow and sluggish like stock, yet it's still smooth.

Overall, so far, I'm very happy with this new tuned ECU.
 
There was indeed some headroom in vvti department , to swap slightly better mid range torque for slightly worse emissions due to less EGR. Glad you noticed that
 
There was indeed some headroom in vvti department , to swap slightly better mid range torque for slightly worse emissions due to less EGR. Glad you noticed that

I sure did notice, and do on a daily basis.

BTW George, I was going to send you an email with a little "review" of the remapped ECU, but since I saw you respond here I didn't see the point of doubling up on you with it.

One more thing I've noticed with the remapped ECU... Before in stock form, when doing light throttle input in city traffic, the transmission would shift from 3rd straight to 5th gear, only being in 4th for a brief moment, only to kick back down to 4th because of the needed torque to accelerate, even at a slow rate. And once in 5th gear, if you depressed the throttle slightly to accelerate a little, it would kick down into 4th.

NOW, with the remapped ECU, it goes through every gear as it should, and once in 5th and you depress the throttle, it stays in 5th and just moves. On the way home this morning from work, I tested it to see how hard I could push it before it down-shifted. I was able to accelerate from 50 mph to 60 mph in about 5 seconds or so while staying in 5th gear, and that was with a lot more throttle input than before. If I gave it that much throttle in stock form, it would have kicked down into 4th, maybe even 3rd for a moment.

The more I drive my car, the more things I notice with this remapped ECU. It's making me love this car even more!


And on a totally unrelated subject, my engine has always had a very slight pinging issue under hard acceleration, something that I had hope would go away once I had the car a while, taking it on long road trips and putting top tier 93 octane gas in it, but nothing has changed. Doing a little research, it seems that the engine temp sensor could be the culprit, so I ordered a genuine Toyota water sensor a couple days ago, and it showed up yesterday. So I know what I'll be doing on my next day off. I'm hoping it fixes it.
 
Sure thing, I like when it's not only me who can see review

At the same time I don't like throwing parts at problem. ACIS control solenoid and knock sensors are known weak parts of 15+ year old 1UZ VVTI and 3UZ engines but I wouldn't recommend to blindly replace either of them. Instead I'd recommend to get scan tool of some kind (cheapest solution: used android phone, ELM327 ver 1.5 , ELMSCan Toyota app)
 
It's not bad enough of a knock/ping to throw a code. Not even any stored codes. I've got both a wifi and Bluetooth scanner with two different apps on my phone. Both show nothing.

I've read good things about changing out that temp sensor. It's cheap enough and certainly easy enough to do. While I'm there, I'm going to clean the throttle body as well. Might as well, right?!
 
You partly get it wrong. Certain malfunction may lead to pinging and no code, while some other malfunction will throw a code and force ignition to full retard. It might as well be just one cylinder with excessive carbon buildup, or intake air leak, or clogged injector etc

So use your scan tool properly, not like hammering nails with microscope.
Inspect ACIS system using active tests (must work even when ignition is on, engine is off)
Read and remember long term fuel trims in various driving conditions (idle, 3000 rpm idle, 3000 rpm under load)
That will give you some valuable info

If nothing interesting is found at that point, it's ok to gradually move on to heavy artillery like cleaning MAF and checking fuel pressure (idle, load, transition idle to load, should be ~3.3 bar steady), knock sensor replacement, pressure test, valve clearance test, get a new car
 
So at 2 in the morning, I decided to go out to the garage and install the new ECU. I jumped the OBD2 to let the ECU "learn" my keys for 30 minutes. Afterwards, pulled the jumper and gave it a go, and... It cranked right up! My girlfriend hopped in for a nice little night drive around the baron roads here in town.

First off, in the remapped "Normal" mode, improved throttle response and power is definitely noticeable. It feels very much like the stock "Power" mode, only a little fresher and a little meaner. You can certainly feel that there's a little more oomph and life present over the stock "Power" mode, and definitely considerably more than the stock "Normal" mode.

Speaking of the "Power" mode, that's the one where all the magic happens. Greatly improved throttle response, so much so that sometimes it's a bit touchy. If you're not careful, when you leave off from a light, you're liable to snap your neck. LOL Also, under moderate throttle input, once the car shifts into 2nd, it feels like the throttle is increased more, like stabbing the throttle again. A bit on the aggressive side. Odd, but doable.

Extra power?... Well it could be more of the effects of the increased throttle response, but it does in fact feel quicker in 1st through 3rd gear. Once you get past 80 mph, it really doesn't feel much different from stock. Maybe there's a little extra oomph there, but it's hard to tell via butt dyno. There's definitely seems to be more torque, especially in the sub-60 mph range, which is nice and is perfect for city driving.

Lastly, in "Power" mode, up-shifts are improved. Not only are they quicker, you can also feel them. Down-shifts are also quicker and sharper. Not drastically so, but again, noticeable.

All in all, for the little bit of money spent, it's a good upgrade and I would do it again. I would say it's worth the money... Short of doing a full stand-alone computer.

And just because, a few pics...

p3871296081-5.jpg

Christmas tree of lights while doing the 30 minute immobilizer relearn...
p3871296140-5.jpg

p3871296042-5.jpg
how you (relearn) it
 
It is worth noting that this procedure only works if you have a complete Toyota/Lexus of particular year (2000+ in most cases), with complete operational immobilizer system, and the only part replaced is engine computer

In all other cases (99.9% of users who would view this thread and try to repeat it), the procedure is wankery, useless poking into stuff they don't have slightest insight into
 
I sure did notice, and do on a daily basis.

BTW George, I was going to send you an email with a little "review" of the remapped ECU, but since I saw you respond here I didn't see the point of doubling up on you with it.

One more thing I've noticed with the remapped ECU... Before in stock form, when doing light throttle input in city traffic, the transmission would shift from 3rd straight to 5th gear, only being in 4th for a brief moment, only to kick back down to 4th because of the needed torque to accelerate, even at a slow rate. And once in 5th gear, if you depressed the throttle slightly to accelerate a little, it would kick down into 4th.

NOW, with the remapped ECU, it goes through every gear as it should, and once in 5th and you depress the throttle, it stays in 5th and just moves. On the way home this morning from work, I tested it to see how hard I could push it before it down-shifted. I was able to accelerate from 50 mph to 60 mph in about 5 seconds or so while staying in 5th gear, and that was with a lot more throttle input than before. If I gave it that much throttle in stock form, it would have kicked down into 4th, maybe even 3rd for a moment.

The more I drive my car, the more things I notice with this remapped ECU. It's making me love this car even more!


And on a totally unrelated subject, my engine has always had a very slight pinging issue under hard acceleration, something that I had hope would go away once I had the car a while, taking it on long road trips and putting top tier 93 octane gas in it, but nothing has changed. Doing a little research, it seems that the engine temp sensor could be the culprit, so I ordered a genuine Toyota water sensor a couple days ago, and it showed up yesterday. So I know what I'll be doing on my next day off. I'm hoping it fixes it.
Sounds frikken epic bro. Can you post an acceleration video of your speedo after the remap please
 
Just another quick update for those who are interested..Still no dyno time, but have some better proof than just simple low speed butt-dyno stuff.

There's a place that I found a couple years ago that I use to take my 370Z to to "test" new mods and new tunes, and to also bed in the new big brake kit that I put on it. It's pretty much a two lane highway in each direction, and it has a perfectly straight and flat 2 mile stretch where you can really "open her up" so to speak with a large sweeping turn coming into and out of the straight on each end, so you can easily come out of and into those turns at 80+ mph. And the other major pluses, no side roads, no intersections, no traffic, no nothing, and plenty of nice bright lighting. This is where I tested out the deleted top speed governor on the Z which was 155 mph. I got that sucker up to 178 before I had to start braking going into one of those turns.

Anywho... I took the ole' LS430 through there a couple times a while back because I just wanted to check out that stock 133 mph governor. It got up to 95 mph pretty easily, but after that, it would start taking forever to go faster. I gave up after 120 mph because it was just taking too long to accelerate. Now this last time I went out there, just a few weeks ago, it was a totally different story. Not only did the LS430 rip right past 100 mph without much effort, it almost felt like it started pulling harder once past 100 mph. Within a matter of a few more seconds, I was passing 130. By the time I had to let off to start braking for the turn, I was doing just shy of 150! With that being said, to get from 130 to 150 seemed to take almost as long as it did bone stock going from 95 to 120.

Not too bad at all considering the cost of the modded ECU. And now personally confirmed that the governor is removed. Not that the top speed stuff is all that important, but it's nice to know and see that there's a bit more top end power. Like I said, once this little 4.3 winds up past 5k rpm in 4th and 5th gear, she really starts pulling pretty good. In short, I'm impressed.

Anyway, I knew some of you wanted to hear an update, so there it is. Oh yeah, and mileage is about the same, especially considering that I get into the throttle a little bit more than normal these days. MPG ranges from mid-14's to mid-17's depending on city traffic. And that's ALL city traffic. And when cruising around 45 - 50 mph and flooring it, that initial kick-down on the transmission is pretty sharp. It feels great!

p3871296087_5_390330c28c909ab29ad5c535e427c81665a4ae5c.jpg


p3892153765_5_cc3caca648d028219bc53f06a6e9b46813161c4a.jpg


p3892153763_5_1eb4801a5d1f0dfef0973503854077c450d75fd4.jpg
 
Things are the other way around this time.
Besides USA, the reflash service is also available in UK for EU customers

George, that's great news! I'm glad to see that you're expanding your business. I'm honored to have one of your modded ECU's in my LS430. It makes my car much more unique to any other LS430 in the country... At the moment anyway. ;)

BTW, I had a little "head to head" with a guy in a new Cadillac ATS 3.6L yesterday afternoon. Punching it from 60 mph to 130 mph, I was a car and a half in front of him when we let off. Yes, I know, V6 vs V8, but his car is also 400 lbs lighter and with an 8-speed auto vs my old 5-speed auto. And mine sounded better. :p
 
Awesome review Chops!

George, I didn't quite understand the pricing. $270 is to remove the immobilizer? Just curious, why would someone want that?

Does the $150 require me to send you my ECU?

I have a 06 SC430 if that matters (6AT).

You mentioned expanding your business to NorCal, I'm in SoCal if that makes anything easier.
 
George, I sent you an email on the site. (I don't get any emails from lextreme for some reason, so please reply there, I don't always see posts here quickly enough)

Chops, is there anything I should know going in? or any special settings you told George? It sounds like yours came out really good.
 
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