Wiring my Stock 1UZ Again! Need Help Urgently!

[Rawal4x4]

Hi everyone! I am in the process of rewiring my 1UZ after the initial job done on it turned out to be quite problematic. Using stock ECU and the original loom that came with the engine which was in pretty bad shape and cut up. The electrical shop who did the wiring did not have 1UZ experience and I ultimately had to take the wiring loom off and found things to be a bit of a mess.

I believe that the engine and ecu are from a JDM 1995ish Celsior UCF21 and I am using the Lextreme 4 page wiring diagram. There are some variations from the disgram as in I don't have a EGR and only about 35% of the color codes match up.

Would appreciate guidance as to whether I am heading in the correct direction! At this stage I have the following quick questions:

1. I cannot seem to find the knock sensors or their connectors on the loom and was wondering if this was it under the plenum/whatchamaycallit. If not what exactly is it?


2. Just wanted to re-confirm that this is something to do with TRAC and I don't need it:

Got some more, will post later! Sorry for the fuzzy pics(which seem not to be coming through as embedded images so will try to attach) ! Many thanks in advance for your interest and comments. Here is a pic of my ride, was running quite well on good days but had issues with missing. I hope I can get it back on the road soon.

[samsdad]

1. Cold start injector. Not fitted to the two UCF21 engines that I have

2. Traction control

3. Nice shorty 40

I suspect a UZS151 Crown engine. Part no from ECU please, Will start with 89661-***** and I can tell you what it is out of. Those diagrams aint quite right but I have decoded the UCF21

[Rawal4x4]

Many thanks.

I believe the ECU is 89661 - 50241 or could be its 59241 (less likely) can't really tell from the pic, will reconfirm later. Its got 34P, 22P, 16P and 28P: . Marking on the engine cover when I got it said UCF21:

On 1, if thats the cold start injector, I wonder where I would connect it as I don't recall seeing it on the Lextreme diagram.

BTW where exactly do I find the knock sensor?

[Rawal4x4]

BTW it IS possible that my engine and ECU may be from different cars though hopefully that is not the case. Several pics of the engine on the detailed build thread for the car on the IJC Forum here: http://www.ijc.com.pk/forum/viewtopi...t=183&start=50

[samsdad]

You're lucky that it's friday and I'm on the beers... Engine is ex UZS151 crown and the traction control is redundant. ECU is ex 9/91 UCF21 Celsior and I have just decoded the car side of it. Engine side of the diagrams on the site are correct car side is not. Give me a few days and I'll post up the list of what pin goes where as I need a few days for a bit of time out as I've reached a point where ones body say "No you need a rest"

[samsdad]

Sorry booze error ECU is 9/95

[Rawal4x4]

Oh boy, that really makes my day! Always thought it was a Celsior engine given that the Lextreme engine variants write up says that "Crown - plenum has a “4 CAM 32” badge on the plenum and the plug covers say "Toyota"". Surprisingly we ever got it off the ground as supposedly difficult to run without trans and ECUs not interchangeable....

Will look forward to the UCF pinouts from your end which will probably be a big help for many others as well. Don't kill yourself over it though Have a great weekend and a bundle of thanks!


In the meantime I will try and see if I can find a 1995ish Crown UZS151 ECU around here and see if I can trade mine in.... Part number should be 89661 - 3A080 right?? Not holding my breathe though

[gloverman]

The early UZS131 crowns had Toyota written on the LH cover with 4 cam 32 on the plenum. Later crowns have the same as the Celsior with toyota on the plenum and 4cam32 on the LH cover.
I would like to know why it looks like a UZS151 crown motor?

It has lower plastic covers even though it has the 20 series over cover. The throttle body has the larger breather to the tappet cover like the early motors and there is a cold start injector which the later motors dont have. Fuel pressure regulator is at the front where the later ones are at the back. The best way to tell is the early motors have 4 groups of 2 injectors while the later motors have the sequential injectors. Early ECu the header plug is in the centre of the ECU box and uses an alloy body karmin vortex air flow meter. Later motors have the header plug offset to one end of the ecu box and the plastic body air flow meter.

It looks like a early motor with a late model cover , ecu and air flow meter. The best way to tell is checking the original loom for the injector grouping. This loom may have been changed now to make it run and it looks like you have been driving it. I managed to receive two motors at the same time from different suppliers with incorrect ECUs so found out the differences between these two. I dont even care about the ECU numbers now. I simply apply early and late with correct airflows to there correct looms and it seems to work.

All the ECUs work fine without the trans although there are a few which have their own little issues.

The knock sensors are under the lower manifold each side of the valley just infront of the starter motor. You can usually see them down there.

Great truck. I have read your other forum posts a few times and it shows that boys are the same all over the world when it comes to their toys.

[sideshow]

hehehe
I always say u get what u pay for
90% of shops think they know what they r doing
and only 5 or 10% do know what they are doing
and I always say. buy a complete engine set of someone
who knows their shit
and if they don't then find someone who does
a little extra cost at the start will save u three times as much in the end

[gloverman]

Its easier for us in that respect Jim. In some parts of the world getting parts like this is extremely hard. The write up of this truck is one of the best I have seen and I think the builders did a fantastic job given the parts they had avaliable. I do completely agree when its easy (especially in NZ and Aus) that you should pay the few extra $$$$ in the beginning as it much cheaper in the end in most cases.