Twin turbo UZ ST185

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Sorry to hear it Justen, but you're in good company - we've all had it happen (buying stuff from others that didn't live up to its billing).

I think junkyard pulls are safer buys than these "built" engines, given the quality of some of the builders, and the owners that use them.
 
So hooked up the cooling system so I could run it fir a bit and the water might ado dull down the racket so I could have half a chance to figure out what is going on.

The valve train in both heads sounds like a bunch of smurfs letting loose with hammers! Not good and I think it can't be anything other than rooted? Piston crowns are untouched though so what the hell is the issue?

It was supposedly a runner and I can only assume an issue occurred resulting in this hell noise and sale to numpty ie me? ;) but what could befall a running engine in both banks?

I thought maybe one or two of the shim unders had dislodged in transit...but sounds like 15-20 shims have gone walkies? Not possible surely?

The other option is it was a dud from the start but you wouldn't run this thing more than a minute trying to fault find if it dud this from first start up...not even 10 seconds. Only reason I ran it for as long as I did was because it was sold as a runner so figured it might be something simple.

Looks like I am up fir a top end tear down...yippee, there's another coupla months off the road :rolleyes:
 
depends on the "build" the pistons could be un-coated and running lots of clearance as a performance rather than street build...

that said, never seen someone sell a good built motor, if it was so good they would of used it!
 
Pistons aren't coated but either way it's not piston slap. It's definitely in the heads but valves aren't touching pistons. If valve clearances were out a mile I guess it could sound this bad?

As for the sale it was TTLex...he parted put the whole car so it seemed legit?

Lol I have sold a mint built motor so I must be naive I guess :p
 
what block is it? you are aware of the extra oil feed to the VVT-i mech in VVT-i blocks?

turn the motor over and remove the cam saddles between the unloaded valves make sure it's getting oil where it should and check valve clearances.
 
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It was a going concern, it's not a fresh build. Oil pressure is very healthy and noise is not oil pressure related...I'll work thru all the checks ta. Seems I will have to as nothing simple is coming up as a possibility :( it's starting to feel expensive
 
Piston slap

Hi Justen, I've followed your progress from time to time and love your car.
Don't get to disappointed with that engine yet!
I have just finished building a forged tt 1uz and put it back into my Soarer.
When I ordered the pistons, CP/ Carrillo sent me their recommended size for a forced induction std bore size 1uz.
When I took the block & pistons to C & B performance engine builders they said that the pistons were only just large enough to fit the bore's.
They gave the block the lightest hone possible and piston to bore clearance ended up at 0.0055. The instructions that came with the pistons say this is near on perfect for a highly expanding forged piston.
So I got the engine back in the car and on first start I was absolutely shocked at how noisy it was. It sounded like it was coming from both heads and was just a constant knocking/ rattling sound like the thing was going to blow.
I knew to expect piston slap but not like that.
After running it a few times over the next couple of weeks I nearly got it up to temp without being to scared and shutting it down.
I then found a small amount of coolant coming from the exhaust which I was aware of a suspect head stud so I pulled the engine back out & took the heads off. The pistons were fine & no broken rings or any sign of anything wrong.(apart from a stripped head stud)
I have now drilled and tapped 12mm head studs into the block & will be putting the engine back into the car very soon.

It does sound like we have the same problem but I think once our pistons are up to normal engine temp the knocking will fade.
I'll let you know how mine goes

Clayton
 
My engine

1uzfe
Eagle rods
CP pistons
MLS head gaskets.
9.5:1 comp ratio
13,000rpm valve springs
12mm ford pinto ARP head studs
Twin GT3082r garrett turbos
Twin 38mm external gates
Wolf v500 emu
Tremec T56 6 speed manual.
Full sequential COP ignition
Full sequential injection
My own custom made exhaust manifolds
And inlet plenum & piping.
 

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A solid looking set up Clayton.

Turns out my issues is just VVTi being noisy as it's not currently activated. A mates stock VVTi will do the same from time to time as they are very viscosity sensitive apparently...phew :)
 
Ugh........sorry to hear it Justen. Broken or bent?

Assuming the cams were timed right, whose valves are in it, etc.?
 
Pumps out of the throttle body so I'm guessing broken. No noises on turnover though, even on the starter so hopefully damage is minor?

Stock valves, HD valve springs.

Engine as it was when bought (off here). Assured it was running fine but was making a strange 'clang' from the 1st start. Hoping it was just the VVTi and was wrestling with ECU trying to get it to activate....just went bink, grind, stall over a second or two. :(
 
With the cam covers off it looks like bent valves and lots of them :(

Hopefully pistons didn't cop too much?

But WTF? These are non interference? How can this happen? Timing belt is fine.

Given there was always a tap, I think valves were touching but then something let go, cams went of of phase and munched the whole valve train? Weird...will pull off crank pulley and see what the belt drive pulley has done.

Maybe belt tensioner failed and belt skipped big time?
 
VVti are interference if the belt breaks or the camtiming is out. Stock 1uz can run the VVti through the full range without touching pistons but I have seen a few with aftermarket pistons which haven't been checked for VVti movement and they touch.
 
Hmmm ok, I had assumed Toyota had stuck with their non interference platform for belt driven engines?

Still a bit weird though seeing the engine was a runner previously? It seems something had made the timing belt jump given the initial light touch....and then jump again resulting in a box full of bent valves?

I need to pull the front covers off and check the belt tensioner as the first like suspect....or discover a wayward nut perhaps?
 


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