The Fish

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Looks like at least 18", 36" for turbos!
Here is the AEM instruction sheet for the sensor mounting.
scan.jpg
 
I have one of the ones you posted in the link which I use when tuning other peoples cars that don't have a permanantly mounted wideband, and then I have a single channel controller (non gauge type) in the Alltrac thats wired into my AEM EMS.

I have had no problems with either, but the guage type unit doesn't see much use compared to one mounted in a vehicle on a permanent basis.

Innovative also makes a wideband setup but its more cumbersome IIRC - I like the integrated gauge on the AEM (it wasn't out yet when I bought the single channel contoler)
 
Thanks for all the info guys. Looks like the aem gauge type is the way to go for now at least.

Dave. When would be a good time to call you?

Have you decided wether or not you'd be able to make it over this way during your Christmas excursion yet?

KC
 
Thanks for all the info guys. Looks like the aem gauge type is the way to go for now at least.

Dave. When would be a good time to call you?

Have you decided wether or not you'd be able to make it over this way during your Christmas excursion yet?

KC

Any time really - during the day just call my work or cell - 5-6 central call the cell after 6 central call the home phone.

I don't think we'll make it up that way - Beccas Grandpa had a heart attack and they were unable to operate due to kidney complications so we will probably be headed down to S. Florida instead so he can see his great grandaughters at least once.
 
Thanks - thats the plan. We don't know how long he has left so we want to spend some time with him while hes still with us.

Ya, me too, sorry to hear that.

I think it will be awsome for him to see your girls. Matthew has been lucky in seeing all of his (still living) great grandparents. It's amazing how much pride and love there is from someone, who basically, doesn't even know the kid.

Nathan will be seeing his great grandmother and great grandfather (Krista's side) for thanksgiving. They are already excited about it.

Your post make me think about my grandmother and how I really should go down to Florida with the boys and visit her.

KC
 
Updates

Ok, now that all the mushies are aside.....

I now have the fish bracket and the LS400 fan bracket in hand.

I don't think (not sure either way) that the V-9 will be a direct fit, the bracket was made with the V-1 / V-2 in mind. The bolt pattern is similar, but seems to have a smaller radius. Also, the bolt pattern seems to be in a different location in relation to the oil feed and drain fittings. Sorry if that doesn't make sense.

Not a huge deal, just more work.

IF I have all the fan conversion parts in hand by Saturday, I may be able to do it on Sunday. Ordered an LS400 fan shroud from Lexus for about $90. Still waiting on the fan, clutch, and the pulley.

I think it will be possible to bolt the fish bracket on the motor, without the supercharger on it, and still run the stock belt in the stock location for now. Doing this will give me a better idea of what else needs to go where and what else needs to be done.

BTW, I was thinking about painting the fish black for an oem look.

KC
 
Intercooling

Also:

I have otw an intercooler. Core size of 21X10X3, 2.5 in/out, rated to 600hp which is more than I will ever try to make. A bundle of 2.5 piping, a bundle of 3.0 piping, a reducer, couplers, ect. A porsche type bypass valve (the porsche valve is made by bosch but is supposed to be superior to the standard bosch valve) and a small filter for the bypass valve. I plan on venting it to atmosphere, and since a bypass valve is open when under vacuum, it needs a filter.

The plan is to run 2.5 from the SC outlet to the intercooler inlet. Step up to 3inch at the intercooler outlet and then all the way to the MAF. The bypass valve will be placed as far away from the MAF as physically possible.

I will be using the boost limiter valve from 928 motorsports to keep pressure to my desired level. It will be installed as close as possible to the supercharger outlet. If this valve works as stated, it's an awsome thing. If it doesn't, I will swap to a wastegate later.

IF I have all the parts by Saturday, I will try and mock up the install, cutting pipes as needed on Sunday. Then, I will take the pre-cut and indexed pipes to a shop to be welded where needed.

KC
 
Also:

I have otw an intercooler. Core size of 21X10X3, 2.5 in/out, rated to 600hp which is more than I will ever try to make. A bundle of 2.5 piping, a bundle of 3.0 piping, a reducer, couplers, ect. A porsche type bypass valve (the porsche valve is made by bosch but is supposed to be superior to the standard bosch valve) and a small filter for the bypass valve. I plan on venting it to atmosphere, and since a bypass valve is open when under vacuum, it needs a filter.

The plan is to run 2.5 from the SC outlet to the intercooler inlet. Step up to 3inch at the intercooler outlet and then all the way to the MAF. The bypass valve will be placed as far away from the MAF as physically possible.

I will be using the boost limiter valve from 928 motorsports to keep pressure to my desired level. It will be installed as close as possible to the supercharger outlet. If this valve works as stated, it's an awsome thing. If it doesn't, I will swap to a wastegate later.

IF I have all the parts by Saturday, I will try and mock up the install, cutting pipes as needed on Sunday. Then, I will take the pre-cut and indexed pipes to a shop to be welded where needed.

KC

If the bypass vents to atmosphere remember that it has to be before the MAF in the piping or the car will run horribly rich whenever its open. Normal practice is to plumb it into the inlet pipe to the SC

home depot sells rubber couplers in 2.5" and 3" size for use with pvc - could be handy in fully mocking up the system prior to inatallation.

What is the diameterof your stock MAF tube and TB?
 
Dave,

If the bypass vents to atmosphere remember that it has to be before the MAF in the piping or the car will run horribly rich whenever its open. Normal practice is to plumb it into the inlet pipe to the SC

Of course, and probably the further away from the MAF the better. I don't quite understand the advantage of routhing to the SC intake and I think there would be the same rich problem if the bypass was after MAF.

home depot sells rubber couplers in 2.5" and 3" size for use with pvc - could be handy in fully mocking up the system prior to inatallation.

Good to know, thanks.

What is the diameterof your stock MAF tube and TB?

I'm not 100% sure. I bought an adapter (which is meant for attatching a cone filter to the MAF), it's diameter is 3inches.

I'm considering the innovative gauge type AF sensor over the AEM, not much more and I've heard mixed reviews on the AEM.

Any comments on this unit. I like the auto AF monitoring under boost. http://www.maftpro.com/index.shtml

KC
 
Of course, and probably the further away from the MAF the better. I don't quite understand the advantage of routhing to the SC intake and I think there would be the same rich problem if the bypass was after MAF.

Depends on the setup - if you have a filter, then a draw through MAF and the air from the recirc valve re-enters the intake between the MAF and the SC inlet it keeps it from running rich because the already metered air re-enters the intake and is eventually consumed. (Thats how they have it set up on the TRC SC on the tC and the new one for the 1GR)


I'm not 100% sure. I bought an adapter (which is meant for attatching a cone filter to the MAF), it's diameter is 3inches.

Measure with some Calipers. if the TB inlet is 2.5" and the MAF housing is 2.5" then you can just stay 2.5" with your pipes the whole way.

I'm considering the innovative gauge type AF sensor over the AEM, not much more and I've heard mixed reviews on the AEM.

Didn't know innovative made a gauge type now. There is nothing wrong with their products so thats not a bad idea at all.

Any comments on this unit. I like the auto AF monitoring under boost. http://www.maftpro.com/index.shtml

KC

I'm not a fan of that style of piggybacks. I like units you hook to the laptop that utilize full maps, datalogging etc.
 
Hey guys,

Replaced my motor mounts yesterday, HUGE improvement. Some pics.

This is the driver's side, which was the worst. At first glance it doesn't look to bad.
1061695-1-5ada2b80eced1881cdbd5cb12e2a3cd2262515f5.jpg


But, as you can see, pretty much worthless.
1061694-1-63c757f8e620eadcf146caa5c3c74dfa5dd4a583.jpg


There's maybe 15-20% of the rubber left holding it to the lower bracket. Like I said huge improvement.

I still have a bit of clunking when I lightly tap and release the gas while cruising. There are only a few things left that can be causing this. The driveshaft u-joint (which seemed fine when I had the driveshaft out), the driveshaft couplers, or the rear diff mounts (suspect). I'm not going to worry about it for now unless it gets worse. The motor mounts have greatly improved the ride, so I'll be happy with that for now.

KC
 
Depends on the setup - if you have a filter, then a draw through MAF and the air from the recirc valve re-enters the intake between the MAF and the SC inlet it keeps it from running rich because the already metered air re-enters the intake and is eventually consumed. (Thats how they have it set up on the TRC SC on the tC and the new one for the 1GR)

I'm still confused on how this works. Seems that some metered air doesn't make it to the engine, which is expecting the air. Also, if the air goes through the MAF again, it's metered again.

I will try venting to atmosphere as far before the MAF as possible and see what happens.

I won't see my intercooler or piping untill sometime next week, so I won't be able to do the mock up on Sunday. Possibly the weekend before Thanksgiving.

Measure with some Calipers. if the TB inlet is 2.5" and the MAF housing is 2.5" then you can just stay 2.5" with your pipes the whole way.

I will measure, but I am pretty sure it is more thank 2.5inches, likely 3inches.

Didn't know innovative made a gauge type now. There is nothing wrong with their products so thats not a bad idea at all.

Check it out, don't know if it says poo though.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Inno...001QQitemZ110186608813QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

I'm not a fan of that style of piggybacks. I like units you hook to the laptop that utilize full maps, datalogging etc.

It does use full maps (check the description on the PRO version) it just has some auto correction capability. It's basically a much cheaper version of the MAP ECU.

Some updates - Trying to sort out what length bolts I will need to bolt V-9 to the fish. 5/16 #18 and at least 4.5inches long. 4.75 would be better if not too long. I'm going to go down to the local Fastenol today.

Still waiting on the fan bracket pulley and the fan/clutch. If I get them in time, I will do the conversion on Sunday.

I have a new possibility on drain placement, I'm not going to mention details until I investigate it more.

Ordered boost limiter valve and bung.

Ordered a 4cyl Camry t-belt tensioner and idler pulley. The idler should be able to replace the OEM ribbed drive belt idler. I want to try and use the tensioner as the supercharger idler.

Lex, I will need your idler kit if I can't make the tensioner work, but I want to try it first.

I think that's it for now.

KC
 
Pics!

Got some bolts today that are long enough, some teaser pics.
1061785-1-fc5a548e0e3bbc04773398315aa437c29a8438cd.jpg


1061786-1-0bedc1399afb5da55360b47d72baf226028fdb40.jpg


I can manage to get three holes to line up. Once I get the bracket on the engine, I will be able to determine where and how many holes will need to be drilled.

KC
 


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