The Fish

[Blizzy]

You could do that but you might over spin the supercharger. Your Bypass valve has to be far enough from MAF at least 20".

From the numbers I have crunched, the blower should be spinning no more than 40k rpm to make 10psi. With the blower being rated at almost 60k rpm, I doubt there will be an issue with blower failure.

As for the pulley, I know Morris, a Lextreme member with a GS400, used to run a Vortech and pushed it to the point of having belt slippage issues. I would PM him to ask him what pulley size he was running when he was slipping.

 

[RedPhoenix]

Ive used the AEM wideband and I will do so again. I dont think you will have a problem with just one, I have seen it done many times.

 

[RedPhoenix]

I think a simple SAFC and MSD BTM's will do fine, however MAP ECU looks promising.

I think the NGK Copper plugs gapped to high 20's or low 30's would suffice, no?

I would recommend aluminum or steel, whatever you can get welded into the pan.



ugh 5 min edit rule lol

 

[Boosted2.0]

30psi through a CT26? KABOOM!

Yep - turbo had shaft play after like 3500 miles. It was a fun 3500 miles though

 

[Boosted2.0]

better be a mistype, that ct26 wont spool anything nearly that high...

Sure it will - I have the logs from my EMS to prove it. All it takes is 3 thick washers between the wastegate actuator and the compressor housing.

Remember it is a modified unit with a 60 trim compressor wheel and a clipped turbine.

 

[Boosted2.0]

I have 2 of the AEM wideband O2 sensors. The Gauge type is just the ticket for your application.

I would definitely get a 1:1 pressure regulator and a piggyback. A FMU will not be able to re-fuel your car under low load / no boost to compensate for the larger injectors.

I've never worked with the MAP ECU but I've heard good things about it. The Greddy E-Manage Ultimate is also a nice piggyback and makes things like injector size compensation easy. It also allows you to retard ignition timing if you want to.

 

[RedPhoenix]

Sure it will - I have the logs from my EMS to prove it. All it takes is 3 thick washers between the wastegate actuator and the compressor housing.

Remember it is a modified unit with a 60 trim compressor wheel and a clipped turbine.

ah i was thinking stock ct26

 

[Boosted2.0]

ah i was thinking stock ct26

yeah - I don't think you could come close with a stock one. The modified one doesn't do it WELL either - it was beating up the air pretty bad. The new T3/T4 is a much better unit. I've considered a GT35R as well, but I worry about the spool time and non linear power delivery on a small motor. It would be much better suited to a UZ.

 

[kc95sc400]

Brainstorming here.

I was thinking, rather than using an idler pulley on the fish bracket, why not use something like this.

This is a 4cyl Camry t-belt tensioner.

I know there are many factors involed when it comes to belt slippage, but I think tension is likely a big one.

I've personally always thought that the Toyota V8 belts are a a bit loose. I wouldn't want to add too much tension, but I think a little would go a long way.

KC

 

[kc95sc400]

I have 2 of the AEM wideband O2 sensors. The Gauge type is just the ticket for your application.

I would definitely get a 1:1 pressure regulator and a piggyback. A FMU will not be able to re-fuel your car under low load / no boost to compensate for the larger injectors.

I've never worked with the MAP ECU but I've heard good things about it. The Greddy E-Manage Ultimate is also a nice piggyback and makes things like injector size compensation easy. It also allows you to retard ignition timing if you want to.

Gauge type as in this..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AEM-...001QQitemZ110182553652QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Couple of wideband questions,

How far downstream should they be installed?

I assume they need to be before any cats. Correct? Not a problem if I ever get my headers.

I have a small H-pipe about 3 feet back from the stock manifold flanges. I think installing the sensor into the H-pipe would be more accurate since it would read both banks.

I haven't decided for sure on using the bigger injectors. I bought them so that I would have the option. I will go with a piggyback rather than an FMU so that the setup will be somewhat upgradeable.

This unit also looks interesting and has some neat features. The pro can also control timing and is much cheaper than the mapecu 2. Also has an auto A/F adjustment mode which I think can be set to a boost level.
http://www.maftpro.com/index.shtml

KC

 

[kc95sc400]

Not really an update, but....

I hope to have the bracket installed and maybe even an intercooler by Thanksgiving.

I won't be able to put the V-9 on untill I get the headers (STILL WAITING!), unless I find another way to setup the oil drain.

Will take many pics.

Plan on doing the fan conversion soon. If anyone knows a good place to get an LS400 fan shroud, let me know. I might be able to modify the stock SC400 shroud.

Dave (Boosted2.0), I will be giving you a call soon.

KC

 

[Lextreme II]

KC,

I am working on a idler kit as we speak. Please pm me.

 

[BARRY]

where can you get those headers from? i can't google it or search those anywhere. how much did they cost?

 

[kc95sc400]

where can you get those headers from? i can't google it or search those anywhere. how much did they cost?

Here is a link to their website. http://www.ektuning.com/index.html

I don't think anybody who bought them through the group buy here has gotten them yet, so if I were you, I'd wait until we are sure they really exsist.

KC

 

[kc95sc400]

KC,

I am working on a idler kit as we speak. Please pm me.

PM sent!

KC

 

[Boosted2.0]

Gauge type as in this..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AEM-...001QQitemZ110182553652QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Couple of wideband questions,

How far downstream should they be installed?

I assume they need to be before any cats. Correct? Not a problem if I ever get my headers.

I have a small H-pipe about 3 feet back from the stock manifold flanges. I think installing the sensor into the H-pipe would be more accurate since it would read both banks.

I haven't decided for sure on using the bigger injectors. I bought them so that I would have the option. I will go with a piggyback rather than an FMU so that the setup will be somewhat upgradeable.

This unit also looks interesting and has some neat features. The pro can also control timing and is much cheaper than the mapecu 2. Also has an auto A/F adjustment mode which I think can be set to a boost level.
http://www.maftpro.com/index.shtml

KC

You can put the wideband anywhere after the flamefront so 1 foot back or more would be fine. I usually put them close to where the stock front O2 sensor goes.

I would not put it in the H pipe - not really enough flow through there, its a pressure equalization device only.

That first link you posted is indeed the AEM wideband O2 with gauge type controller.

 

[scotturnot]

Actually I have heard about 25-30 inches down stream before the cats. I had to move my cats to allow this.

 

[Boosted2.0]

Actually I have heard about 25-30 inches down stream before the cats. I had to move my cats to allow this.

It definitely does have to be before the cats - but I've had them mounted as much as 4" back from a turbine housing outlet with no problem at all. Then again thats probably 16" total back from the port when you add it all up.

25 - 30" seems a bit excessive

Stock location for the front sensor is usually close to ideal.

 

[scotturnot]

Maybe it was 16”-18" I will look at my AEM install instructions when I get home tonight. Either way 18" or 24" I had to move my Cats down to get it back from the header. I think even more important is the Orientation to keep condensation out of it.

 

[kc95sc400]

Guys,

Ok, so don't use the H-pipe. The only reason I thought this would be a good idea is because I thought it would read both banks.

IF AND WHEN I ever get the headers, I will have 4 possible locations for install. I could put one or both of the stock front sensors in the rear sensor holes (to avoid check engine light) and use one or both of the front sensor holes for wideband. Or just use one or both of the rear sensor holes for wideband.

I don't think, on an OBD1 system, the CEL will come on if I remove the rear sensors altogether. Although there may be a sub o2 open / short code. Will have to try and unplug them and see. I'm not a fan of the CEL being on, even if it's my fault and I know why it's on. Also, no, I don't want to pull the bulb. The light is there for a reason.

I think I will use one wideband, going to a dual setup seems to near triple the cost. Having a dual setup could have advantages when trying to diagnose ignition / injector problems, but I don't think it is really needed.

KC