The Fish

[kc95sc400]

mini update

I have the fan bracket and pulley coming from Lex, along with the SC bracket and bolt kit. Thanks Lex!!

I purchased a fan and clutch through ebay shipped for $60. Thanks for the link Lex!!

I will do the fan conversion and possibly bolt on the bracket as soon as I have all the parts and the time. Pics will be taken.

Khris

 

[Lextreme II]

$60 is good deal. Dealer is expensive.

 

[Boosted2.0]

Wow, I wish I was there. That thing must be bad to the bone. Those v6 4.0s are fairly quick to start with.

This is the other pump they offer for a price.
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/prod...=1001&osCsid=010d0c3b7a972c8a96fe2dd7d89229bb

I will likely go for A2A to keep costs down. A2W kit for like $370 with the purpose built pump plus cost for piping or A2A $100-$200 plus the cost for piping. I could always ad the A2W intercooler downstream of the A2A intercooler later when I recoperate from spending all this money!?!

Also, I don't think a huge FMIC would be needed. I would hate to get one so big that it would require modification of the stock setup for getting air to the engine. It's actually a pretty good setup despite the fairly small inlets on the front bumper. There is the front air inlets in the bumper, the splash sheild is vented to force air to the engine, and there is a plastic piece there (hard to explain) that seems to be designed to force the air up and into the engine compartment.



Um, I'm pretty sure I don't have an OBDII port. I know some of the preOBDII Toyota's have them, but I've looked and haven't found one on my car. If you know where it is, please do tell.

I'm pretty sure I fixed the vibration today. The drive shaft has two parts, there is a large nut in between that holds them together. When the nut is removed, the drive shaft can be seperated into two seperate shafts. This needs to be done in order to replace the center bearing. When I put it back together the first time, I didn't index the two shafts together correctly. The two shafts have splines between them. The flanges on the seperate shafts need to be phased 180 degrees opposite of each other, I was one tooth (spline) off from being 180. Corrected the phasing and all seems well.

Now I just need to replace my motor mounts, which I will do if I ever get my headers.

Khris

Yeah I got to drive the truck home last night - its pretty badass.

A2A is definitely simpler, less expensive, and generally more than adequate for a street car. I usually go W2A for drag applications or road race appliations where throttle response is critical and I want to minimize lag through intercooler piping. I noticed a significant increase in lag when I switched from the top mount intercooler on the alltrac to the front mount. All that extra piping added quite a bit of tip in lag. Doesn't matter once the hammers down though.

I'm pretty sure you can use the C shaped OBD1 connector if you have one or even the underhood connector, but it sounds like you have the vibration sorted out. And yeah - driveshaft phasing will give you some nasty vibrations, as will getting your pinion angles wrong.

 

[Lextreme II]

The Fish is officially called Shamu now...LOL... JK

 

[Boosted2.0]

Check out the difference in piping length -

Original routing - turbo to IC to intake

New routing - turbo to piping to FMIC to piping to intake. Total piping length added was probably 6 or 7 feet all told.

Mind you it did take the intake temps at 25-30 PSI down from 175-195F to 122F, so I was willing to live with the change

 

[Boosted2.0]

 

[kc95sc400]

The Fish is officially called Shamu now...LOL... JK

Is it available with a black and white finish? Can it be ordered with teeth? LOL.

KC

 

[MightyAl]

With an external gate you can clock the turbo and shorten the piping quite a bit



fun car but the 1uz is definitely more interesting

 

[kc95sc400]

Boosted2.0 (Dave)

Nice, you have any dyno numbers on that thing? The all trac?

Why did you switch to A2A?

Don't know if you've seen the original setup with this bracket, so here's a pic.

There is three ways to intercool that stand out in my mind.

1. Route the pipe under the driver's headlight to a FMIC behind the bumper, then route pipe under the pass side headlight to the engine intake.

This would be a more common setup I would guess people would use.

2. Clock the supercharger snail so that it points towards the pass side of the car. Route the pipe straight across the engine, under the pass side headlight to a FMIC (same side in and out) and then double back to the intake.

I don't think that the piping would be much shorter, but shorter none the less. I suppose the charge might pickup some extra heat as it goes past the engine. Also need to keep in mind the mech fan I am adding.

3. Same as above but fit an air to water intercooler where the stock air box is (pass side, behind the headlight) then straight to the intake.

I think #1 would be the longest piping, #2 piping would be shorter, #3 shortest piping.

I don't know for sure if the A2W intercooler would fit in the space of the factory air box or not. The radiator should fit in front with out any problems, there is plenty of room behind the bumper despite what it looks like. Pump and lines routed where needed.

I think that regardless of which way is used, custom piping will be needed. A universal kit may have enough of the right parts to work, but it would be hard to determine for sure until the kit was in hand.

Also, the small outlet diameter of the V-9 (2.5 inches) will be an advantage. Running 2.5 inch intake pipe will give me more options, with less body modifactions than a larger pipe. I would likely use the 2.5 all the way to the maf, at the maf I would need to upsize to 3 inches.

As far as my vibration. I still have some, but I think its all vibrations that where already there. I've had some problems with the tires I put on it, they have awsome traction but ride like crap. Plus I still need to change the motor mounts, I suppose they are probably worse off now that they were stressed a bit while removing the trans.

Please, all comments welcome and needed.

Khris

PS Dave. Lucky me, Prius classes today, tomorrow, and Thursday. 072 and 073 I think.

 

[jibbby]

It's funny I've seen so many boosted SC400's and each one seems to be different in one way or another.... Whether it be the intercooler placement, piping or something else... There is realy no one way to do it as they all appear to work well in there own way....

I love to see these boosted rides...Good work people..

 

[Boosted2.0]

With an external gate you can clock the turbo and shorten the piping quite a bit



fun car but the 1uz is definitely more interesting

Yeah I know - I have a T3/T4 setup with a Tial 38mm external WG ready to go on - I just have to get around to installing it.

 

[Boosted2.0]

Boosted2.0 (Dave)

Nice, you have any dyno numbers on that thing? The all trac?

Why did you switch to A2A?

Don't know if you've seen the original setup with this bracket, so here's a pic.

There is three ways to intercool that stand out in my mind.

1. Route the pipe under the driver's headlight to a FMIC behind the bumper, then route pipe under the pass side headlight to the engine intake.

This would be a more common setup I would guess people would use.

2. Clock the supercharger snail so that it points towards the pass side of the car. Route the pipe straight across the engine, under the pass side headlight to a FMIC (same side in and out) and then double back to the intake.

I don't think that the piping would be much shorter, but shorter none the less. I suppose the charge might pickup some extra heat as it goes past the engine. Also need to keep in mind the mech fan I am adding.

3. Same as above but fit an air to water intercooler where the stock air box is (pass side, behind the headlight) then straight to the intake.

I think #1 would be the longest piping, #2 piping would be shorter, #3 shortest piping.

I don't know for sure if the A2W intercooler would fit in the space of the factory air box or not. The radiator should fit in front with out any problems, there is plenty of room behind the bumper despite what it looks like. Pump and lines routed where needed.

I think that regardless of which way is used, custom piping will be needed. A universal kit may have enough of the right parts to work, but it would be hard to determine for sure until the kit was in hand.

Also, the small outlet diameter of the V-9 (2.5 inches) will be an advantage. Running 2.5 inch intake pipe will give me more options, with less body modifactions than a larger pipe. I would likely use the 2.5 all the way to the maf, at the maf I would need to upsize to 3 inches.

As far as my vibration. I still have some, but I think its all vibrations that where already there. I've had some problems with the tires I put on it, they have awsome traction but ride like crap. Plus I still need to change the motor mounts, I suppose they are probably worse off now that they were stressed a bit while removing the trans.

Please, all comments welcome and needed.

Khris

PS Dave. Lucky me, Prius classes today, tomorrow, and Thursday. 072 and 073 I think.

No dyno numbers on the current setup as I haven't finished installing it all yet. The previous setup (60 Trim T3 compressor in the CT26 housing with clipped turbine) was about 320 to the tire at 30 PSI. I only had 550cc injectors in it at the time (not enough) though and wound up popping the motor. New build has 850cc injectors in a wolfkatz rail, a built head (oversize Ferrera SS valves, full P&P, HKS vallve springs, lighweight shim buckets, HKS cams, Enginelogics adjustable cam gears) and an even stronger bottom end (Pauter rods, CP pistons, ARP studs & bolts on everything, TTE 1.2mm MLS HG). With the turbo I have I should see close to 375 to all 4 wheels will full spool by about 4.2K and redline at 8750)

The alltrac didn't have an A2W - it was a top mounted A2A fed by a hood scoop, but it was small and restrictive. I removed it because it was not capable of supporting the power level I was running at.

Given that SC placement piping 2.5" down behind the drivers side headlight to an 2.5" inlet on an A2A IC and out of a 3" outlet through 3" piping behind the pass side headlight and back up to the TB would be your best bet.

072 and 073 eh? Fun fun. You taking the MDT test this year?

 

[Thermactor]

30psi through a CT26? KABOOM!

 

[RedPhoenix]

better be a mistype, that ct26 wont spool anything nearly that high...

 

[kc95sc400]

Questions, comments, need advice, ect.........

Guys,

As the title of this post suggests, I need some advice and have some comments.

I going to start with my current parts list.

Parts I currently have, or that are on the way, relating to my supercharger project:

Supercharger, used V-9 SSQ CCW rotation
Maf adapter, not 100% sure this will work
Lextreme T-fitting for oil pressure
Spacers, not 100% sure they will work, but I think they will and they were cheap
Fittings for air assist setup on the V-9
The fish bracket, on the way
Bolts for attaching the fish to engine, on the way
LS400 fan bracket, on the way
LS400 fan pulley, on the way
LS400 fan and clutch, on the way

Parts I still need:

Possible LS400 fan shroud
SC pulley
At least two smooth idlers
Belt
Intercooler
Intercooler piping
BOV or bypass valve
Wastegate or pressure relief valve
Oil feed hose
Oil drain hose
Fittings for oil pan tap
Bolts to attach V-9 to the fish
Wideband / AF meter
Piggyback or FMU
Spark plugs

Other stuff:

Torsen upgrade done
Battery relocation done
Fuse box relocation done
Dragon TQ done
315 injectors, have but not sure if I will use yet
EKT headers, these are theoretically on the way, going on two weeks overdue! Getting concerned.

Comments and questions in no particular order.

Do you guys see any parts missing that should be on the list?

Lex, do you remember what the smallest pulley you were able to run without belt slip problems?

Any recommendations on a wideband setup? Are there any reliable AF meters that can run off of the two rear O2 sensors in place (narrow band sensors)? Should I get a dual wideband controller or, should I add a bung to my h-pipe (there won’t be any cats)? Any other suggestions?

FMU or piggyback? Can an FMU be used to compensate for the bigger injectors if I use them? Any piggyback recommendations? Keep in mind a few things here. I’m trying to stay on a budget (LOL!!!), so bang for buck is best. Also, I don’t have, and have no intention of getting, a laptop. I have a few friends who might let me borrow theirs’ so that I could do some street tuning before getting dyno tuned. I’ve been looking into the MAP-ECU, looks like a good unit. Any other suggestions?

Spark plug recommendations?

What type of fitting should a get for the oil pan? What metal? Brass, aluminum, steel? The V-9 came with a 3/8 npt X 3/8 hose barb. I think this will be adequate if I can match it on the oil pan.

Bypass or BOV? I don’t really want the sound to be obvious, not my thing. Can a bypass valve be vented (before the MAF with a filter installed) to atmosphere?

Thoughts on this rather than a wastegate……. http://www.928m.com/parts/boostlimitervalve.php
I personally think it would work great for my application.

Suggestions on idlers? I was thinking Toyota parts. A t-belt idler from a Camry, or many others, may do the trick.

Intercooler recommendations? For now, I have decided on A2A. Anybody have experience with a universal piping kit that will work on the SC4? At least until I can get something custom made.

I think my biggest hold up on getting this done will be the stupid headers, it’s going on two weeks past the original promise date. This will hold me up because I plan on tapping the oil pan during the header install.

The LS400 fan sits in a completely different location, in relation to the radiator, than the SC400 hydro fan. An LS400 fan shroud may be needed. I will likely either try to modify, or totally remove my current shroud and see if the car runs any hotter.

I’m sorry for asking so much at once, but I need advice from you guys. I hope to get this done soon. I can’t freakin wait!

Thanks,

Khris

 

[Lextreme II]

BOV or bypass valve
Wastegate or pressure relief valve
.

You dont need wastegate or BOV. This is a supercharger not a turbo. Bypass valve is all you need.

 

[kc95sc400]

You dont need wastegate or BOV. This is a supercharger not a turbo. Bypass valve is all you need.

Go here and read this article and you will see what the purpose of using a wastegate on a supercharged car is. It's pretty cool and a very interesting article.
http://www.musclemustangfastfords.c...gal_supercharger_wastegate_install/index.html

I still need to know what the smallest pulley size you were able to get to work on the fish. On your pulley size list, you have a 2.62, this by my calculations would be about 10psi with the 5.5 crank pulley. The V-9 came with a 2.42, belt slippage waiting to happen?

Can a bypass be vented to atmosphere as long as the outlet is filtered and it is before the MAF sensor?

Both a bypass and a BOV are meant to do the same thing, prevent compressor surge. I will likely use a bypass because they can be had for much cheaper than the cheapest BOVs and I'm not looking for a loud woosh anyway.

Thanks,

Khris

 

[kc95sc400]

Ok, I re-read the article a bit and I don't think it really explains why I would want to use a wasgate or some other sort of pressure regulating valve.

Quick explanation.

Lets say you want your MAX boost to be 5psi and that your MAX rev is 6000rpm. You could use a 5psi pulley, but you wouldn't see MAX boost until, you guessed it, 6000rpm.

If you use a wastegate or releif valve, you could run a 10psi pulley and, in theory, you would see 5psi at 3000rpm. The wastegate or releif valve would be set to bleed off all pressure above 5psi. Much stronger powerband. 5psi from 3000rpm to redline!

Thanks,

Khris

 

[Thermactor]

indeed, but you would also have higher pumping losses, more wear on the blower, and lower fuel economy. since this is a daily driver you'll have to weigh all of those factors.

 

[Lextreme II]

Ok, I re-read the article a bit and I don't think it really explains why I would want to use a wasgate or some other sort of pressure regulating valve.

Quick explanation.

Lets say you want your MAX boost to be 5psi and that your MAX rev is 6000rpm. You could use a 5psi pulley, but you wouldn't see MAX boost until, you guessed it, 6000rpm.

If you use a wastegate or releif valve, you could run a 10psi pulley and, in theory, you would see 5psi at 3000rpm. The wastegate or releif valve would be set to bleed off all pressure above 5psi. Much stronger powerband. 5psi from 3000rpm to redline!

Thanks,

Khris

You could do that but you might over spin the supercharger. Your Bypass valve has to be far enough from MAF at least 20".