The Fish

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Guys,

A couple of updates, comments and a couple of questions for Lex.

Updates: Yesterday, I installed my torque converter and my LSD modded diff. Also rear main seal, transmission front pump seal, and my transmission mount. Sorry, no pics. I wasn't planning on doing the installation till Friday so I didn't bring the camera. It was slow at work so I decided to go for it.

Installation went pretty smooth, my car does have some corrosion but I only broke one bolt.

After install, I now have a horrible bearing growl that only happens when I accelerate fairly hard from a stop. I am about 95% sure that the noise is coming from the center driveshaft bearing. I ordered one and should have it and install it tommorow.

I haven't really pushed too hard yet, I figure the TQ needs some break in and with the noise I have I've been taking it easy, but so far I am not sure I am impressed by the torque converter. Just not quite the neck snapping difference I was hoping for. It drives differently for sure, just not too impressed yet. I will likely play with the trans throttle cable some to taylor my shift points.

After I replace the bearing, I will push it some to see what it can do, then maybe I'll be more impressed. I hope I'm correct on the bearing and it's not the LSD making noise.

Questions for Lex: Will the driverside coil pack need to be relocated? The bolts needed will be stock length bolts plus 1/4 inch, correct?

Comments: I am excited about getting the bracket soon. It will be a huge step. It's very hard to visualize what all needs to be done without having the bracket in its place. I don't know about the rest of you, but once I get the bracket (and a means to delete the hydro fan) I will likely bolt it on and leave it even if I'm not ready for everything else to go into place.

Khris
 
Yes, you need to slightly relocate the driver side coil and you would need to have another 3/8" longer because the plate is 3/8" thick. However, the upper 8 mm bolt is a very special one. Its a two stage bolt. One stage is for the oil pump and second stage is for the fan bracket or hydraulic pump. I think a straight bolt will work. I think electrical fans will be the best.
 
Kc this is awesome to see someone have so much passion and drive in their project... Much respect to you my friend and please keep us updated..
 
Sounds like you have a shaker maybe...As you know the torque converters are balanced, if by chance they get banged or a hard drop they can become unbalanced...Upon excelleration you might hear a bearing noise...

I had a unbalanced torque converter install and it was a nightmare, had to remove the torque converter and send it back to Precision Industries, they first wanted to hold me responsible but after a lengthy discussion with the owner he honored the return and sent me a new one...I installed it and has been good ever since...

Just something to consider if it is not the bearing... There shouldn't be any break in noise with a torque converter install...
 
I've had more rear end noise from rear ends I've manipulated. usually a pinion not meshing with a ring just right. just my experience. i wasn't happy with the way mine was sounding last week, so I broke down and got another 4.10 LSD rearend.
 
Thanks for the input guys.

I replaced the bearing today and the noise appears to be gone. The old bearing definately had some roughness in it and the rubber surround seemed to have allot more flex than the new one.

It might just be my imagination, but I seem to have more drivetrain vibration now that I replaced it. Did not have vibration between the TQ / LSD install and the bearing replacement so I know it's not the TQ or the LSD.

I may have indexed the drive shaft wrong when I put it back together or it might just be my paranoid imagination.

Still not horribly impressed with the TQ.:sad: Maybe I was just expecting TOO much? I have tried to verify the stall (I asked for 2800rpm) but when power braking, the wheels break loose at about 2200rpm. I don't think that 2200 is the stall, more likely it's when the rear brakes can no longer hold.

I haven't installed my trans cooler yet. I will soon.

Khris
 
With a 2200 stall rate torque converter you should break loose at launch immediately...I bust loose right out of the gates with the 2200 stall rate in combination with a Torsen Supra LSD and the 1uz-fe motor... 2200 is fairly aggresive....
 
jibbby said:
With a 2200 stall rate torque converter you should break loose at launch immediately...I bust loose right out of the gates with the 2200 stall rate in combination with a Torsen Supra LSD and the 1uz-fe motor... 2200 is fairly aggresive....
Click to expand...

Jibby,

I'm not sure that it is a 2200 stall, when power braking the rear brakes can no longer hold the wheels at 2200rpm. The stall may still be higher, but I'm not sure how to check if traction is be lost before the engine won't rev any higher with a foot on the brake.

Do you bust loose if you just slam the gas while stopped? Or do you need to "stage" to bust loose?

There is definately an increase in performance, just not as much as I was expecting. I think it is most dramatic when down shifting to a lower gear, seems to pickup quite a bit quicker. The shifting is totally different. I have played with the throttle shift cable some, but I think it still needs some adjustment before I'll be happy with it.

BTW, I am thinking the the vibration I was talking about is my paranoid imagination.

KC
 
The kit sounds good in general and is a decent price. The only thing i don't like about the setup is the pump. Its a bilge pump not designed to take heat and it also cannot adjust the speed so you can tune the flowrate to suit your tuning needs. Think about it the pump is an integral part of this COOLING system.
 
comments / mini update

I don't think the A2W kit would be any more of a headache than a FMIC. If I went with the A2W setup, I would run the pipe across the front (where the intercooler would be) to the intercooler, which I think would fit within the pass side bumper area, to the engine. Put the radiator in front of the ac condensor, mount the pump wherever, and wire the fan and pump to a switched (ignition on) source.

They do offer an upgraded pump for the kit.

I now have decided that I'm not paranoid and I do have a drivetrain vibration. Will check it out at work tomorrow. I know it's not the TQ, it's vehicle speed related and not engine speed related. This leaves the driveshaft and the rearend as the culprits. I'm pretty sure I didn't have the vibration until I took the driveshaft apart, so this is where I will start. Hopefully it's something stupid and easy to fix.

Between Home Depot and Lowes, I sourced the missing fittings for the air assist on the V-9. They are all NPT. Still not sure how to go about things on the drain side.

Also, I figured out that the bolt size needed on the V-9 for mounting is 5/16 - 18. Not sure the lengths needed yet, but they have these bolts available up to 4 inches at Lowe's. Still need spacers. Don't know if the length of spacers I need is the same that Lextreme had posted on another thread since I have a V-9. Will have to figure that out when I get the bracket.

That's it for now.

Thanks,

KC
 
KC95 -

My 1992 SC400 was basically stock when I installed my 2200 Precision Industries Dragon Torque Converter...When I finally got it installed I would hammer it and both the rear tires would break loose with the torsen LSD..... It wouldn't be a long burn out but it would break loose for a little while...

So to answer your above question if you have a 2200 stall rate converter you should be able to break loose your rears or rear from a dead start at idle... If your rears don't bust loose when you floor it from a dead stop you most likely have a higher stall rate torque converter...

Keep in mind, if you have alot of exhaust mods with your 1uz-fe N/A motor that will take away some of your lowend torque and power for sure... All the exhaust mods when done on the SC400's mostly only give you topend power.. That includes the mufflers, larger pipes, cat deletion, and headers...With every mod I did I would gain highend power and maybe some mid range and then lose a little lowend power...

The only way your going to gain lowend power out of the gates is with a root supercharger, nitrous , differential gearing change, and or a torque converter stall rate change.. I don't think you would gain that much if any lowend torque with a turbo because of the immediate lag time it takes to spool the turb's...However, if the turbo is a small one then that maybe a different story...

Just my take and experience with these cars..
 
kc95sc400 said:
I also agree. I do not think that there is a very large flow of oil through the Vortech, but of course you wouldn't want the line kinked. Any suggestions on where to add a drain to the engine Dave?
Click to expand...

Just in the upper oil pan would be fine. Preferably someplace where the oil doesn't have to travel too far to find its way into the lower pan.
 
Ursus said:
The kit sounds good in general and is a decent price. The only thing i don't like about the setup is the pump. Its a bilge pump not designed to take heat and it also cannot adjust the speed so you can tune the flowrate to suit your tuning needs. Think about it the pump is an integral part of this COOLING system.
Click to expand...

My thoughts as well.

Khris - the new Tacoma 4.0L supercharger thats coming out has a A2W intercooler and uses a pump and resivoir. We just put one on (finished today) and its awsome. You might call TRD and see if you can order the pump and resivoir seperately? Its a really nice pump.
 
kc95sc400 said:
I don't think the A2W kit would be any more of a headache than a FMIC. If I went with the A2W setup, I would run the pipe across the front (where the intercooler would be) to the intercooler, which I think would fit within the pass side bumper area, to the engine. Put the radiator in front of the ac condensor, mount the pump wherever, and wire the fan and pump to a switched (ignition on) source.

They do offer an upgraded pump for the kit.

I now have decided that I'm not paranoid and I do have a drivetrain vibration. Will check it out at work tomorrow. I know it's not the TQ, it's vehicle speed related and not engine speed related. This leaves the driveshaft and the rearend as the culprits. I'm pretty sure I didn't have the vibration until I took the driveshaft apart, so this is where I will start. Hopefully it's something stupid and easy to fix.

Between Home Depot and Lowes, I sourced the missing fittings for the air assist on the V-9. They are all NPT. Still not sure how to go about things on the drain side.

Also, I figured out that the bolt size needed on the V-9 for mounting is 5/16 - 18. Not sure the lengths needed yet, but they have these bolts available up to 4 inches at Lowe's. Still need spacers. Don't know if the length of spacers I need is the same that Lextreme had posted on another thread since I have a V-9. Will have to figure that out when I get the bracket.

That's it for now.

Thanks,

KC
Click to expand...

Dig out the old scan tool and the NVH tester adapter. Its an accelerometer that you stick on the Drivers seat bolt. It hooks to the stock ECU through the OBD2 port and you can look at the vibration and see if it lines up as a first second or third order vibration at driveshaft speed, engine speed, or wheel and tire speed. Call me on my cell if you need help figuring out how to use it.

You could try starting by rotating the driveshaft 90 degrees and see if it goes away.
 
Boosted2.0 said:
Khris - the new Tacoma 4.0L supercharger thats coming out has a A2W intercooler and uses a pump and resivoir. We just put one on (finished today) and its awsome. You might call TRD and see if you can order the pump and resivoir seperately? Its a really nice pump.
Click to expand...

Wow, I wish I was there. That thing must be bad to the bone. Those v6 4.0s are fairly quick to start with.

This is the other pump they offer for a price.
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/prod...=1001&osCsid=010d0c3b7a972c8a96fe2dd7d89229bb

I will likely go for A2A to keep costs down. A2W kit for like $370 with the purpose built pump plus cost for piping or A2A $100-$200 plus the cost for piping. I could always ad the A2W intercooler downstream of the A2A intercooler later when I recoperate from spending all this money!?!

Also, I don't think a huge FMIC would be needed. I would hate to get one so big that it would require modification of the stock setup for getting air to the engine. It's actually a pretty good setup despite the fairly small inlets on the front bumper. There is the front air inlets in the bumper, the splash sheild is vented to force air to the engine, and there is a plastic piece there (hard to explain) that seems to be designed to force the air up and into the engine compartment.

Boosted2.0 said:
Dig out the old scan tool and the NVH tester adapter. Its an accelerometer that you stick on the Drivers seat bolt. It hooks to the stock ECU through the OBD2 port and you can look at the vibration and see if it lines up as a first second or third order vibration at driveshaft speed, engine speed, or wheel and tire speed. Call me on my cell if you need help figuring out how to use it.

You could try starting by rotating the driveshaft 90 degrees and see if it goes away.
Click to expand...

Um, I'm pretty sure I don't have an OBDII port. I know some of the preOBDII Toyota's have them, but I've looked and haven't found one on my car. If you know where it is, please do tell.

I'm pretty sure I fixed the vibration today. The drive shaft has two parts, there is a large nut in between that holds them together. When the nut is removed, the drive shaft can be seperated into two seperate shafts. This needs to be done in order to replace the center bearing. When I put it back together the first time, I didn't index the two shafts together correctly. The two shafts have splines between them. The flanges on the seperate shafts need to be phased 180 degrees opposite of each other, I was one tooth (spline) off from being 180. Corrected the phasing and all seems well.

Now I just need to replace my motor mounts, which I will do if I ever get my headers.

Khris
 
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