The Fish

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Lex,

I am going to use an intercooler, but have not sourced one yet or decided how big of one I want.

I've seen that one on your products page and it's a little expensive for my budget.

I am also wondering how in the heck to run the piping on the driver's side with the a/c receiver dryer, ps/hydro fan cooler and all the lines in the way.

I have a couple of questions for you, if you don't mind.

Do you know if the V-9 has the same bolt pattern as the V-1/V-2?

Do you remember how you ran piping on the original fish?

Do you know what size pulley is needed to blow 10-psi?

Can the drain line be tapped into the steel oil pan, or does it have to be in the sub pan? Drilling and tapping a hole in the sub pan really kind of scares me.

Thanks,

Khris
 
I dont recommend running the pipes behind the radiator. What I did was the pipes ran down into the window washer tank. I deleted the tank so there would be room for the pipe. However, that was LS400 not SC400. I am not sure if they are have the same pattern or not but i am sure you can use few of the V1 holes for the V9 unit. I have no experience with V9 and boost level with different pulley sizes.

I think Chrisman tap the oil return on the steel pan and it seems to be find.
 
Guys,

Look what I got today...
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Still waiting on the V-9 and the EKT headers. Plus still have more things to source.

Khris

PS - If anyone who is getting the EKT header from the GB, please let me know what info you have.
 
cool

thats a nice looking posi set up. I welded my limited slip together so it would be a true locker on my BMW. I may change it in the future for an aftermarket slip if it becomes annoying. what is your slip rated at percentage wise? I'm looking for the smallest supercharger made to mount to this plate we are all getting. does any one know what the smallest one is. Is it the V-9 you've been talking about. I'm looking for low reliable boost. i don't want to get too crazy until I can build something that can handle it. :puke:
 
thats a nice looking posi set up. I welded my limited slip together so it would be a true locker on my BMW. I may change it in the future for an aftermarket slip if it becomes annoying. what is your slip rated at percentage wise? I'm looking for the smallest supercharger made to mount to this plate we are all getting. does any one know what the smallest one is. Is it the V-9 you've been talking about. I'm looking for low reliable boost. i don't want to get too crazy until I can build something that can handle it. :puke:
The LSD is a Torsen unit from an MKIV auto trans TT Supra.

I think the V-9 is the smallest vortech, but not sure about other company's.

Khris
 
Hey guys got some updates and a couple of questions.

I had purchased Blizzy's spare diff he removed from his car and sourced a used Torsen LSD from Titanmotorsports (thanks Blizzy) and I put it all together this weekend.

Blizzy already did an awsome write up so I only snapped a couple of pics.

These pics are the diff taken apart waiting for the upgrade.
1054185-1-185a99c9ba12d316ca5bf1244eef40917d337c3d.jpg

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All back together, and more awsome than before.
1054566-1-d57faa0ea447a884f3ac341a614a97edc50722c9.jpg


This is really simple thing to do, easy upgrade. Price for the diff and Torsen shipped was $392.00, I bet I could turn around and sell the upgraded setup and make quite a profit.

A few things I did differently than Blizzy. I am using the stock 3.92 ring gear. I used an impact on everything, don't flame. Instead of heating the ring gear, I placed the ring gear onto the LSD as far as it would go and then used two opposing bolts to pull it into place. There was very little resistence and it went right into place without any problems.

I may intall it into my car next weekend, along with my TQ and OEM stuff. Unless I get word on my headers shipping from EKT before then. BTW I finally got an email from Chase, and he assures me it won't be much longer.

Ok, back on topic. Got this in the mail today.
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Some questions. In the first pic, does anyone know what the hole next to the id tag is for and/or what I should use to plug it?

Can the front housing (intake side) be turned to any desired position? Looking at it, I don't see why it couldn't be.

Thanks guys. I'm getting close!
 
Oil drain

Unless anyone has a better idea...

SC400TT told me he tapped his sub pan (the upper pan) for his drain, but he had to remove it and weld on a bung. I looked at my car today and agree the removal would be the best way. The front lip of the pan is not nearly as deep as the one pictured in the tutorial section. I assume Lex, that this is your LS400 pictured.

So new plan. I am going to install my TQ, motor mounts, trans mount, and my LSD diff onto my car this weekend. I had been waiting on the headers.

When I get the headers, I will remove the front crossmember with the suspension in order to gain access for header install and sub pan removal. Once the pan is removed I will weld on a bung, drill, and likely plug it untill I'm ready for it's use.

I don't think the steel pan is deep enough to allow the drain to be above the oil level.

Anyone have any other ideas, please let me know..

Thanks,

KC
 
The above picture would not apply to you. The front sump has alot of room to tap but SC400 with rear sump and follow SC400TT tap into the pan.
 
external filter

excuse me if this sounds ignorant, but why do you have to run the drain line down to the oil pan? can you run it to the valve cover? surely it wouldn't cause oil starvation. i'm not as knowledgeable on this subject as you guys are. it would be easy to tap into the valve cover though. What if you ran an external oil filter with a T on one line to the feed line and then ran the return line to the valve cover. I hate messing with these oil pans when I don't have too. It seems like at least one bolt always takes the threads out. let me know if I'm clueless?:laughing:
 
Yes you can...... but last time I heard of fluid draining upward was when I was little baby. Unless there are some new breakthought on gravity then the answer is no.
 
oops

i knew I was misunderstanding something. sorry if I made anyone more stupid with my coments. disregard.:duh:
 
Yes you can...... but last time I heard of fluid draining upward was when I was little baby. Unless there are some new breakthought on gravity then the answer is no.

HA, HA, HA, HA!!! That's funny!

I had considered draining to valve cover via a scavenge pump. I think that would make things more complicated than they need to be though.

Khris
 
yep

yeah, just what we need, one more component to break.:01: i'll listen to you guys for a while and see what happens to yours. then I'll do mine. what is everyone else out there going to supercharge. anyone doing it to a swap car besides myself? i just went with a different 4.10 lsd rear end thats in better shape than the one I had. I drove 5 hours yesterday to pick it up and I put it on as soon as I got back. I'm going to leave the LSD alone on this one and see how it handles. i was going to use the one I welded but if I have to drive out of here in the snow I might fly off the road and never make it. the Z3 axles I have look indestructible, they have 19k miles on them. i'm picking up my billsteins this week and two used sets of rims and tires. then I'll be on the road.
 
KC,

Keep it simple. You should be fine tapping into the oil pan. However, I did this for my twin turbo. http://lextreme.com/forums/showpost.php?p=42221&postcount=30

Nice setup. I was also thinking that the side of the pan would be the best place, there's alot more meat there, more room for error.

I was also considering, don't laugh, using the dipstick tube. Get a spare tube and cut it down to a nub, then run hi temp hose to it from the supercharger. I think this is a good idea and it would be easy to do, but it would make checking the oil level a pain in the you know what.

Khris
 
I'm no authority on centrifugal SC's but if they do the same thing to oil that turbos do, you want to make sure your return line is huge, and it's a straight shot to the pan, and above the oil level. I wouldn't put anything smaller than a -10AN return, or a -12 if you can fit it.

As one of our Supra owners likes to say, the oil coming from the turbo has been whipped to the consistency of chocolate mousse, so it just doesn't flow well.

Here's a pic of the side of my rear sump 1UZ with a -8AN fitting. And this isn't an oil return BTW, it's a suction line for a little prelube system.

As you can see, there's loads of space in this area on the opposite side of the pan from the dipstick.
 

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Hey Khris - its Dave.

I still think a wideband O2 with gauge would be a very wise investment. Street tuning is necessary, not just a time saver when you get to the dyno.

The hole next to teh ID tag you asked about in this picture:
1054565-1-ae4215e47bced2dc7a2605276cc85c053b152f6f.jpg


Is a pressure reference port - thats the discharge for the supercharger so anything that needs a pressure reference from the discharge would be hooked to that.

I agree on the above post as well. Oil feeds from top dead center on the charger, and drains from the bottom dead center or as close to it as you can get. On return lines the rules of thumb are simply that big is best, keep the run as straight as possible and keep it going downhill. If you kink or restrict your return line you'll find out that the seals in that compressor double nicely as an oil injection system and smoke screen generator.

As far as the CFM of the head, any CFM numbers you find will likely be measures on a bench at 28" of water. But a supercharger with intercooler takes the air, compresses it, and then increases the density, so the actual volume of air you will flow will easily exceed whatever calculations you make for naturally aspirated CFM.

If you come across a set of spare heads send one to me and I'll toss it on the flowbench and let you know how much it flows.
 
Dave,

I still think a wideband O2 with gauge would be a very wise investment. Street tuning is necessary, not just a time saver when you get to the dyno.

You've convinced me damn you!

Is a pressure reference port - thats the discharge for the supercharger so anything that needs a pressure reference from the discharge would be hooked to that.

There is actually one on each side of the snail. I figured out that the port with the missing plug was being used for air assist. The oil feed fitting (can be seen in one of the pics above) has two inlet ports on it. The top port is used to supply pressurized air from the snail, the bottom port is the oil feed. This is suppposed to mist the oil onto the gears. This is a feature that the V-9 was designed with and I've been told that it wouldn't be wise to bypass the air part.

Here's a pic from the car that my V-9 came out of....
1056177-1-b9369a019f266230a3162605a4bbcce730f4a18b.jpg


I agree on the above post as well. Oil feeds from top dead center on the charger, and drains from the bottom dead center or as close to it as you can get. On return lines the rules of thumb are simply that big is best, keep the run as straight as possible and keep it going downhill. If you kink or restrict your return line you'll find out that the seals in that compressor double nicely as an oil injection system and smoke screen generator.

I also agree. I do not think that there is a very large flow of oil through the Vortech, but of course you wouldn't want the line kinked. Any suggestions on where to add a drain to the engine Dave?

As far as the CFM of the head, any CFM numbers you find will likely be measures on a bench at 28" of water. But a supercharger with intercooler takes the air, compresses it, and then increases the density, so the actual volume of air you will flow will easily exceed whatever calculations you make for naturally aspirated CFM.

If you come across a set of spare heads send one to me and I'll toss it on the flowbench and let you know how much it flows.

There was one at the local u-pull recently.

Khris
 
Khris and the gangs,

Here is something that will help you. Perhaps i can get some of the bolts for the fan bracket/Fish connection. Here is a picture that will help your project.
fish-mounting.jpg

Let me visit a local bolt specialty sop and get you the proper size bolts.

It will look very similar to this with the exception of the top pulley near the water bridge.
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