Standalone ECU Spitronic ECU & 1uz Kit

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
This EMU is designed as the intermediate EMU but with the added feature of multi coil or wasted spark. The EMU has 6 trigger outputs which can be used for different combinations of injectors and coils. Sensor inputs can be 60-2, 36-1, 24T+TDC and just about any kind of hall or magnetic setup on the engine. Coil driver outputs can be for single or wasted spark coils. It can do idle control and launch control is standard.

Looks like wasted spark and grouped injection "for a V8".. IMO..It only matters at very low rpm and EPA .. There is no advantage with full sequential power wise...
 

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Not to pick on this EMS in particular, but it's really aggravating way most of these EMS manufacturers try to dazzle you with their BS, but bury the "real" specs on their product. In this ECU's case, they're on the next to the last page of the manual.

If someone is switched on enough to be considering a standalone for their engine, they probably already know how many injector outputs and coil outputs they want. Why not give them this information up front, instead of spoon feeding them BS like "....will run any engine up to and including 12 cylinders."

I think I got up on the wrong side this morning......Rant mode off!
 
Yeah, it's a bit annoying being fed bullshit.

Anyway think I'll steer clear of that one.
Thanks for clearing that up. Why can't they just put two more injector outputs then their crap will sell a lot better.


What are the chances of getting an older motor (say 1992) running on the late model ECU (say 1996) with factory sequential injection?

I suppose injectors and stuff may be different, but would probably be a viable option, may even get a bit more power?
 
Any of you guys actually used or seen Spitronics working or running ? Did not think so.
Brilliant little system, does what it needs to successfully, without problems and the like. The system is Lexus V8 specific and includes idle stab. control for the 1UZ.

Will post once the Alfa is up and running with Spitronic.
 
Kriss, my point was simply that if I'm in the market for an EMS that will do full sequential injection, and waste spark ignition for a V8, it would be nice to know right up front whether the EMS has 8 injector outputs and 4 ignition, and not have to wade through all the marketing stuff, to find the "real" specs on the last page of the manual.

It's just not enough for them to say "....will run up to a 12 cylinder engine." That's about as meaningless as it gets; shoot a Megasquirt can run a 12 cylinder engine under certain conditions. Again, I'm not picking on this particular EMS - they all say stuff like this.

Sorry for the thread drift - this is about the Spitronics, not my own personal rant against EMS manufacturers and their lousy specifications.
 
Threads are better if they drift.

So... The series 2 1uz has full sequential from factory.

Has anyone ever used a later fully sequential ECU on an early motor?
I think it would probably make my motor go that little bit better if I could in fact do this.

Late ECU from a 1996 UCF20 Celsior obviously wired sequential.
captureqa.jpg

ecu002.jpg



And this is the early one, the motor that I have.
92154650.jpg
 
As with all these things.. It's the fitter / tuner that makes a good tune..
Being in N.Z have you checked
http://www.linkecu.com/
Try someone who tunes in your area and go with whatever he recomends..
Otherwise you'll have an ECU that is not familiar with any tune shops around your area..Plus it keeps locals employed..
Ourselves we have had NO issues with
http://www.enginemanagementsystem.com/
This guys are just around the corner so any upgrades etc is easy..
These guys seem to have tuned a few 1UZ's and say so on their site..
http://adaptronic.com.au/products/e1280s.html

Then there's the more expensive Haltech and Motec ecu's...
 
Yes I have exhausted all avenues.

Link, motec, autronic, megasquirt (cheap but nasty).

All way overpriced. The demand is such in NZ that a Link that will run sequential injection is around $2600NZD.

I really don't want to spend all that on a motor that is going to stay mostly stock!

Want to look into the later factory ECU because I simply don't need or want all the features of the higher power ECUs.

The motor is going in a 2 door Japanese car, not a Hilux with huge mud tyres so I don't need any extra power than what is available with a fully stock motor. This way everything is cheap and reliable. My wheels are only 14inch with very low profile skinny tyres.

Traction will be an issue regardless.

-Simon
 
Why are you SOooo worried about sequential ?? After 2500 rpm it doesn't matter...
Latter engines have VVT and higher comp etc... Lighter rotating assembly..
Good luck...

Quote ..
Link, motec, autronic, megasquirt (cheap but nasty).
Ahahah
 
Yes, that's true. The sequential is not a massive deal.

Do all the later engines have VVT? If so that puts that idea out the door.
Too hard.

Meh, will most probably end up just doing it all factory.
 
John, yes, agree with your comments on the add blurb..
I have been a Haltech man most of my life, started importing them into S.A. late 80,s..Got the agency here and swore by Haltech. They improved features and the systems just got more expensive. With time came the availability of E.F.I. specific chips from Motorola and a few others. This enabled a lot of smaller guys , enthusiastic guys, developing smaller more affordable systems.
Some were good, some were absolutely terrible. The good systems went on to become better and more funtcional while retaining reasonable pricing.

When I built the Alfa Romeos for our local Class A production cars , it was decided to go with Motec because it was "The Best". Yes, I agree, it is possibly the premium E.C.U. on the market today but at one hell of a price !! They really are expensive.

My daily runner to and from the shop is an original fuel injected Alfa Romeo GTV6 30l fitted with a simple locally built system called Dicktator.. Been running it for over eight years now and its dead reliable. More so that the Haltech e11 that fried itself on me after 3 years.

My new project, the TT Lexus 1UZ in an Alfa will use Spitronic. The decision was made on the basis of local , quick support, reliability and ease of programming. As stated before, I do my own programming as I really dont trust nor do I believe a "tuner" can setup a car in a few hours on a dyno.

I have also tried and used a Dutch system, some from Germany wich proved very difficult to master as well as numerous american stuff. The pioneering systems back then were the Airesearch Hotwire system with three screwdriver adjustable settings !
Anyone remember those ? Pioneering days !
 
It's probably going to be a while before I get anything done on the wiring side.

Will see how your motor runs BK on the Spirtonic.

I can buy a new Advance here with the gears etc for 4,400ZAR.

I'm getting keen to just sell my bare motor and buy a complete ready to go later model motor for a few hundred dollars more!
 
Buy a bloody microtech if u want cheap
There is nothing really wrong with them
For price u pay.
Another thing is y the fm everyone looks at just aftermarket ecu specs
That's only half the prob
What bout helpdesk support
How easy tuning software is
How far do I drive for a tune

Who has recently downloaded the very
Latest adapteonic software
If so can u please explain how to fkin use it
I have applied to Uni for four years to do a course
So I can understand it
So as u can see it takes alot of things to understand
About aftermarket ecus
Each have pros and cons so don't just look at the ecu itself
Download each software and have a play
 
My twin turbo Ford was the mule for the new 2000 Haltech..
Although it runs an E11.. In my case the ignition system is the limiting
factor in the power stakes...
My tune was over 3weeks but not consecutive [I'm not that wealthy]..
Power steering, air con is mainly for stepper motor on idle control to rise rpm when activated..
The std ECU can still control these along if tuner desires..
Yep we are lucky here.. We have Haltech, Engine Management systems, Microtech just around the corner..
 
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I will be running link g3 with paired injection and wastespark for the 40 pickup.Just don't like distributors.If you go for vvti chances are it will have security key so there will be probs there.
 
Yeah I just did a bit of research on VVTi, looks like the security in them is too hard unless you get a front cut which is far over my budget.

I think I will sell mine and get a 95-97 with sequential and lighter internals seeing I won't be turbo charging it. Already have a car waiting for me to put the turbo motor in.

However 1uz's are so much cooler haha.
 
The link g4 is such a simple unit
Software is nice and easy to use
I do these often


Hey if u r on a tight budget and not turboing
Y bother selling engine u have
Just wire it up and go
By time u stuff round getting later motor even non vvti
Yr gain is bugger all
10 or so kw y bother
Best may to make it go better is run a manual gbox
 
I sent you a message not long ago sideshow but don't bother reading it, I definitely won't be going VVTi.

I want to sell the motor I have and get the 95 one for a few reasons.

First is the current motor appears to have done 260k (Two cambelt stickers - one over the other).

Second is I'm not 100% sure of what the motor is out of and therefor don't know what electrics to buy for it. I think it is around 1992. Can guess but it leaves room for error.

Third is the loom is hacked to pieces and I don't want to join all the wires and find plugs etc. I want it to be tidy.

To be honest I'm not really doing it for a "power gain". I'm very fussy with this car (it's 1983 and has done less kays than most of the 1uz's around) and I also don't quite have the skills and patience to find all the right electronics and join all the wires. I could do it, but don't want to because it would not be tidy and it would take me too long.

If I buy this 95 motor all I have to do is the basic and in-cabin wiring then it will be a tidy and fast install.

That and the new one would take to a NA tune better in the future if I get money and do ITB's.

I can easily sell the motor for what it owes me too. So the only losses is my time which doesn't worry me because I have learnt a massive amount about these motors in that time.
 
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Ok cool
I read the emails
260 is ok but bit hi if your
Soon a conversion
And yr right get engine with complete
Matching set I always say

Make it easier to sort it out
 


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