Newbie Q's

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

tigdim

New Member
Messages
16
Location
Stoughton, WI
Ok so i have been reading the 1uzfe Q&A Article By Phil Bradshaw (click here to see article). and I have come up with some questions. I have been spending alot of time reading on this forum and I do use the search option so I don't think these have been asked before, or i am just not understanding what is in the article.

Background info... I am going to put a 1uz into a AE86 corolla. To begin with I am going to get a used motor rebuild the bottom end, and drop it in stock to get the motor and everything situated before I start the rest of the motor upgrades... (I say I will keep it N/A now but everyone knows most car guy always want alittle more power!)

Here goes with the questions...

I think a rear sump will be my best bet in fitting the motor to my corolla. The SC400 I think will be my best bet for the rear sump motor, but my question is can I use a crown ecu with the pre 91 SC400 wiring harness? The table at the end of the before mentioned article shows the crown ecu as being
Standard 16/22/26 Pin. Separate ECT ECU. and the SC400 ecu being Pre 1992 16/22/26/26 Pin. So would this be a plug and play option for a manuel trans if I get the ECU with part numbers 89661-30430/431/432? and not get any codes for the trans?

The next question has to do with the release date of the SC400 in the united states, was it 91 or 92? I ask because I want a pre 91 if I am right about the crown ecu and the pre 91 sc400 being plug and play wireing harness for the manuel trans.

Hopefully all of my bableing makes sense...



 
Answer 1: NO it would not work

Answer 2: 1992 was the first relase of SC400 in the USA.

Just use SC400 everything then u will be fine. Besides it is hard to find Crown engine in the USA. Crown were never sold in the US.
 
I'm not sure that the rear sump is they way to go. The AE86s I have seen have all had front sumps.
I have seen the wiring combination be offered over here in NZ twice. As the crown ECU plugs in nicely but nothing works. The importers don't know what they have and mix and match parts. Both the people who brought the motors had to swap parts to make them work. I got a used motor one day and the importer had pluged in the ABs ecu. No way that would run.
Any factory ECU can be wired to work with a manual box. My advice would be don't worry about rebuilding, get it in and going and work from there. I will get photos of the one we have sitting in place. Also check out sprinterTRD s conversion. Cheers
 
yes use a front sump for a ae86 if you want remotly stock motor location.

my setup is a very bad example i porposly mounted my motor very far back makeing it better to use a rear sump, and in reality ill prolly do a drysump anyhow so it wont matter for me. im going for a more optmum road race/ time attack setup, my motor is well under the firewall and my seating position is set back as well, not at all a setup for everyone. so go with a front sump unless you have crazy ideas like i do.
for the manual transmission i had no isssues with my supra just bolting the engine to the manual and leaving the ecu alone, my car runs great with the 92 sc400 ecu and a manaul and no mods to make it work. there has been some debate on this, it seems sometimes it works sometimes it doesnt
ill have an update on this as tommrow ill be wireing up a 96 sc400 motor into a 91 supra for a freiend and ill possably have it fired up if all goes well.
 
My advice would be don't worry about rebuilding, get it in and going and work from there. I will get photos of the one we have sitting in place. Also check out sprinterTRD s conversion. Cheers

agreed, from everything I've read a rebuild is not worth it unless you are planning to run high boost and are beefing up the pistons/rods, or trying to boost a 300k mile motor. A decent mileage motor will likely be in fine shape, if you're planning to boost do a compression test first if possible of course.

boosting a 150k mile 1uz's minus a rebuild without problems up to ~6psi or so safely seems to be getting toward the lean side of the comfort zone, but still very doable. if you're thinking "maybe boost later" almost any engine will be in fine shape for what you need it to do.
 
I also agree with gloverman and here's why:

1) It's really, really tough to find an independent engine builder who will do as good a job building the motor as Mr. Toyota did.

2) Independent builders tend to be very independent. Any engine building project you undertake is going to take 2x as long and cost 3x as much as you anticipate; or maybe it's 3x as long and 2x as much.

I'm currently coming up on my 3rd anniversary with "building" one of these motors, and we're just about to go onto an engine dyno with it for the 3rd time. I have more money invested in this motor than many new cars cost, but I have to say it's been fun and interesting.

Bottomline, if you're keen to get the swap done & drive the car, just pick up an eBay motor from a trusted seller and get it installed. If you blow it up in two months, big deal. It's only a $500 motor - get another one.

If you want to learn more about the motor, and aren't that concerned about the time & cost, then go for a build, but get prepared to spend $5,000 to $10,000, or more......

One of our members JustenGT8 has been flogging his "stock block" motor in a Celica swap for a couple of years and has had lots of fun driving the car.

Good Luck!
 
I think a rear sump will work the best because I am planning on moving the motor back 2-3 inches (50-78mm) much like on this build. to get a good weight balance front to rear. I am shooting for somewhere between 54% front and 46% rear to 52%F/48%R. I am going to do my best not to move the seating position back but that will also mean I have to do a custom heating system and I will have to select my transmission very carefully to keep the shifter in the stock position or only a few inches behind it. I may have to move the brake MC and booster to a in cab race style one. (not sure about these clearance issues until i get the motor to test fit.

I am acctually planning on this project taking 4 to 5 years. And it is going to go in stages.

Stage one: suspension, 5-lug conversion, rear axle upgrade, brake upgrade, watts link, fender flares and tire/wheel fitment. Suspension will be coilover's all round and will widen the stance by 2.5 inches front and rear. (possibly small tubs for wheel fitment)

Stage two: Roll cage, rear interior, and custom heating system that I will keep to the right side of the under dash and will only give defrost and foot heat. AC will be a 260. (2 windows down at 60 mph)

Stage three: will be actual motor swap and dash modifications. I think you guys are right I may just want to drop a motor in and enjoy the car a this point.

Stage four: exterior cosmetics and radio (nothing fancy just music). Might even go for carbon fiber hood and front fenders. Still debating on fiberglass doors.

Stage five: motor build!!! if I get bored and want SICK power.
 


Top