Standalone ECU Megasquirt info for 1uz

[dewme5]

Instead of help, I thought I would offer some.

I put the 1uz/A340 from a 92 SC400 into my 95 Nissan pickup. Ran it this way for about 2 months, and the stock ECU started running funny. Ground issues, dropping one coil, no read out on CEL. Things just started piling up. With future upgrades planned, I decided to go with a Megasquirt 3/3.57/MS3X. I cheated and bought the pre-assembled kit, both wire looms, and a wideband (MTX-L). Also bought the full version of TunerStudio - recommend you do that as well.

Took about 13 hours for the install. No great hurry, and lots of interruptions.

Just got it running/driving right, so I will have some improvements to add shortly. Still need to add IAC, trans control (Using 1UZ ecu to handle).

Running fully sequential fuel, and stock ignition for now.

When I bought the pre-assembled unit, the j7 jumper was bridging 1-2 on the MS3X board. It should not bridge at all. Going into the "diagnostics" then "composite logger", you can view the signals from the cam and crank sensor (using the cam sensor closes to cyl #1).

My crank signal was great from the start, but the cam was not.

The red on bottom shows a loss of sync.


This is another view of the bad cam signal


Idle was fine, but as soon as the rpms increased passed 1500, things went funny, I lost sync, and the controller injected fuel for 9000rpm. Simple fix for me. I adjusted the hysteresis on the MS3X board (cam), using the adjustable pot. From fully out, I had to go in approx 6 full turns. You can watch the improvement on the "composite logger" as you turn. Get just enough and stop.

Cleaned up cam signal


Close up of the signals. You can see the 12 crank pulses x2 vs 1 cam signal


Those two items were the only real hiccups I incurred. Got it warmed up, started auto tune, and it's running smoothly right now. Sure there is more cold start stuff to handle, and getting idle control working. Compared to my last system, MS3 was a breeze.

If you have any questions for your setup, let me know, I'll try to help.

 

[ORION]

like Ur set up I have in the plans of Using the same set up on my 1990 ls400 with future plans for boost injector Ill be keeping an eye on Ur set and may ask some question thanks for the information

 

[cribbj]

Instead of help, I thought I would offer some.

I put the 1uz/A340 from a 92 SC400 into my 95 Nissan pickup. Ran it this way for about 2 months, and the stock ECU started running funny. Ground issues, dropping one coil, no read out on CEL. Things just started piling up. With future upgrades planned, I decided to go with a Megasquirt 3/3.57/MS3X. I cheated and bought the pre-assembled kit, both wire looms, and a wideband (MTX-L). Also bought the full version of TunerStudio - recommend you do that as well.

Took about 13 hours for the install. No great hurry, and lots of interruptions.

Just got it running/driving right, so I will have some improvements to add shortly. Still need to add IAC, trans control (Using 1UZ ecu to handle).

Running fully sequential fuel, and stock ignition for now.

When I bought the pre-assembled unit, the j7 jumper was bridging 1-2 on the MS3X board. It should not bridge at all. Going into the "diagnostics" then "composite logger", you can view the signals from the cam and crank sensor (using the cam sensor closes to cyl #1).

My crank signal was great from the start, but the cam was not.

Idle was fine, but as soon as the rpms increased passed 1500, things went funny, I lost sync, and the controller injected fuel for 9000rpm. Simple fix for me. I adjusted the hysteresis on the MS3X board (cam), using the adjustable pot. From fully out, I had to go in approx 6 full turns. You can watch the improvement on the "composite logger" as you turn. Get just enough and stop.

Those two items were the only real hiccups I incurred. Got it warmed up, started auto tune, and it's running smoothly right now. Sure there is more cold start stuff to handle, and getting idle control working. Compared to my last system, MS3 was a breeze.

If you have any questions for your setup, let me know, I'll try to help.

Much appreciated, and good luck in the future with your Megasquirt adventures. We've had a few MS "dabblers" here, and a couple of hardcore users, but that part of the forum has been fairly quiet lately.

I've lost track of what the MS3 can do; does it have the capability to run the 1UZ with full sequential injection, and ignition (ie COP without resorting to waste spark)?

 

[dewme5]

Much appreciated, and good luck in the future with your Megasquirt adventures. We've had a few MS "dabblers" here, and a couple of hardcore users, but that part of the forum has been fairly quiet lately.

I've lost track of what the MS3 can do; does it have the capability to run the 1UZ with full sequential injection, and ignition (ie COP without resorting to waste spark)?

Yes it does. And you can do it without changing a thing. That being said, there are advantages to accuracy with going to something with more teeth on the crank wheel.

 

[hiluxfan]

Thanks for the write-up dewme5

I have just finished building my MS3 with MS3X and just busy bench testing it. So far I am quite impressed.
This project is really done to learn more about the inner workings of the ECU.
I am planning to fit it to a 3uz later on.

That being said, there are advantages to accuracy with going to something with more teeth on the crank wheel.

I’ve seen it somewhere on the forum before and I’m not sure how much modification is involved, but you can try to fit the 36-2 wheel from the 3uz.

 

[devojet]

Why not ditch the factory ecu altogether and run a GPIO board as a trans controller? Thats what I'm running in my hot rod with MS2. I have also seen on the web a guy running a 2jz and a340 with an MS3 and GPIO board.

 

[dewme5]

Why not ditch the factory ecu altogether and run a GPIO board as a trans controller? Thats what I'm running in my hot rod with MS2. I have also seen on the web a guy running a 2jz and a340 with an MS3 and GPIO board.

We've talked about this in email. I'm not sure which path I'm going to take at the moment. My a340 has 240,xxx miles on it, and could sure use a rebuild. I prefer manuals, and have access to a R154 for free. Install a manual, or rebuild/gpio the auto for the same price. And, the manual will hold much more power.

And, it's an excuse to pull the engine out, and wire this thing properly. Now that the ms3 is functioning, and I know a little more what is going on, that should be the easy part. And remove all the old stuff!

 

[hrforever]

This is timely info as I am embarking on the MS3 instal as well. The only difference being I'm going COP as well. Bought all the same kit but have not yet invested in Tuner Studio, but its on the list.

As with your's, I bought the assembled box, and as I have not opened it, is the J7 jumper a standard item or not? Also, I've read elsewhere others have used the cam sensor on the other side with better results. Maybe the 'left' sensor gets a harder time than the 'right'. Don't know.

As this is my first foray into the after market ECU arena, I don't believe I will have the instal done in 13 hours, but I do have the motor out at present so that gives me a bit more room to move around and get things connected right. Just need to get the fuses and any relays sorted out in my head so I don't miss anything.

I'm sure I'll be back with and for more info.

 

[smokeysevin]

I know it's an old post but in my experience the location of the loom (even when shielded) makes a big difference. Using the other sensor could just keep it more isolated from noise.

I am working on an install on a Jet ski and getting ready to install one on my Tundra as well.

Sean

 

[jmswltn]

anything new

Im about to swap in the 1UZ in my 4runner.
As I am already running MS2 with my 22r TBI.. it seems like a no brainer to keep it for the 1UZ.

do you guys have a good base tune?

what did you do with the IAC?

and why not wasted spark, EDIS is easy and plentiful.

 

[devojet]

My Tune wont help you as I have ITB's on my engine, But I found the base map that comes with the MS2extra firmware is a good starting point. Just set your "required fuel" and ingnition settings to suit the 1uz and start tuning from there.

I dont have IAC because of the ITB's.

Why would you want to change to EDIS when the factory set up works fine with MS2?

 

[jmswltn]

I guess I was going for a dual install. didnt want to trim the crank wheel 12 -1

I am going to attempt to keep the stock setup and experiment with the ms so it wouldnt be completely down.
I might be keeping the factory auto using the inchworm adapter so keeping the computer happy was part of it.
I am at the point now of selecting what driveline I want to use. i have several transmissions:
lex 341e, 4runner 340h, g52, w55, w46, w56, and r150

this is a budget build so the inchworm adapter was originally my best bet but now i found they no longer directly support the 21 spline input. with that the $700 adapter turned into 900 with shipping and more work.

i have the a340h but not sure if you can use it or not, i think you can swap the input and oil pump but the links to this process have disappeared.

if its just getting the solenoids to operate i can wire it up manual for all it matters to me...

any advise on all this would be greatly appreciated

 

[Gertbuilt]

I've got MS2 3.57 (pre assembed) and also have Tuner Studio. Have installed it with the Relay board. After carefully wiring up all the sensors Could not get an RPM signal on the gauge. Spark on one coil only. Heaps of emails back and forth to DIY Autotune trying different things and then got an error message that was incomprehensible. DIY had never seen this and so sent all the files to DIY but they couldn't help. Suggested I reflash the firmware and start again.

This was easier said than done, and a bit beyond my capabilities, so I got some help and it was done. Then I got an electronics technician with an oscilloscope out to check my wiring and to see if the ECU was reading the Sensor signals from the crank and cam sensors. All appeared ok and the main board and daughter board were changing the sine wave signals from the VR sensors correctly to square wave. The Tech. left and I then Re-installed the Tuner Studio settings.
Now once again, I have not a hint of movement from the Tacho- no rpm, and only one coil is sparking.

I can't even get to first base with this.
I started with the MS many months ago and for the sake of my sanity had to walk away for a while (months) . Feeling a bit refreshed I am now having another go at it.
While I'm no computer or electronics whiz, I'm not stupid. I have had several guys here who are far more savvy than I am, but not one of them has been able to help despite many hours of trying.

I've just been made aware of this thread and thanks to Dewme5 I now have something to try. Tomorrow (too late now) I'll check the cam and crank signals as you described. I'll put the rope away for now.

 

[dewme5]

I've got MS2 3.57 (pre assembed) and also have Tuner Studio. ......................... I'll put the rope away for now.

I'm on MS3, but I'll help anyway I can.

Also, are you on msextra.com? There are a few 1uz's on that site, and all megasquirt specific information.

 

[metalavenger]

I recently completed installing the MS3 with MS3X daughter board. I did the complete build up from scratch. I am by no stretch of the imagination an electronics tech., but I was able to follow the online instructions and got it assembled in just over 10hrs (not in one sitting though!) There were no problems
I used the stock crank sensor and the stock cam position sensor. Running stock dual dizzys with stock coils and igniters, and full sequential fuel injectors. Currently it starts easily even with the iac not connected. Just need to free up some time to finish tuning (on a nearby dyno) Had the engine running previously on Haltech E6K but had to deal with many bugs. So far Megasquirt is painless!
Good Luck to you all with your bilds!
Dale

 

[dewme5]

I recently completed installing the MS3 with MS3X daughter board. I did the complete build up from scratch. I am by no stretch of the imagination an electronics tech., but I was able to follow the online instructions and got it assembled in just over 10hrs (not in one sitting though!) There were no problems
I used the stock crank sensor and the stock cam position sensor. Running stock dual dizzys with stock coils and igniters, and full sequential fuel injectors. Currently it starts easily even with the iac not connected. Just need to free up some time to finish tuning (on a nearby dyno) Had the engine running previously on Haltech E6K but had to deal with many bugs. So far Megasquirt is painless!
Good Luck to you all with your bilds!
Dale

Please post your .msq when you are finished tuning. I also have a IAC wiring thread on msextra.com Two different methods, with settings.

 

[4U2QUIK]

I might send you an email about the iac wiring here real soon. I'm going to need it for a project I'm working on.

 

[dewme5]

Here is the IAC thread.

http://msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=134&t=46607

 

[GLOB]

Does anyone have a good spark and fuel map for the stock 1UZ?

I'm running MS2 with a EDIS8 ignition setup. I probably put close to 900 miles on it using the base map generated by tunerstudio and autotune, but it still feels like it could be better. (or maybe it's because I have a 3.27 in the rear and not a 4.10......)

 

[devojet]

The rear gears would make a big differance.