How much HP out of a Twin Turbo 1UZFE?

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
ma70supra said:
How much more performance out of a Twin Turbo 1UZFE than a NA 1UZFE?

and what Turbos to use?
The question is really how much power do you want or even how much money do you have to spend?

If you want twin turbos and you want cheap then go for a pair of turbos off one of the many 2 litre turbos motors like EVO, WRX etc. The garrett T3 turbos are also a good fit.
 
Trvln Nalzmn said:
The question is really how much power do you want or even how much money do you have to spend?

If you want twin turbos and you want cheap then go for a pair of turbos off one of the many 2 litre turbos motors like EVO, WRX etc. The garrett T3 turbos are also a good fit.

Money isn't really an issue - I am up to my third MA70 Supra and this one is going to get an engine conversion.

Putting a 1UZFE in it was only an idea suggested to me a week ago, so I am trying to get an idea of what I can do with this engine.

If anyone has any interesting suggestions I am all ears!
 
like pro said.... how much power you get comes in relation to how much $$$ you want to spend. the sky's the limit.

plus it all depends on just how "steetable" you want the car to be.
you could whack on huge turbo's and have a nice dyno monster... but around town it'd be poor. or you can get slightly smaller turbos and have less top end but more usable power for around the street.
 
Single T110 is rated at about 1200-1500 hp, and twin T110 is rated 3000 hp. Take your pick. I think specificity is very important. Like Twin T3 on 1uzfe or similar.
 
pro240c said:
how long is a piece of string?

Twice as long as half its length

You can get anywhere from less than standard horsepower to 2000+
It all depends on what you are building it for and what your goals are

You could use a setup with two turbos off an Evo/200sx/STI etc
Ande make 400kw at the flywheel plus

Logan
 
ma70supra said:
Some direction on where to start researching twin turbocharging a 1UZFE would be helpful!

this is the most comprehensive site on the internet today.
seriously, if you can't find info on here relating to turbochargers and 1UZFEs, then i suggest you turn your computer to the "ON" position.

this thread is in the board subject you should be looking under.
 
pro240c said:
this is the most comprehensive site on the internet today.
seriously, if you can't find info on here relating to turbochargers and 1UZFEs, then i suggest you turn your computer to the "ON" position.

this thread is in the board subject you should be looking under.

I'll keep that in mind.

I am still undecided on this subject and would like to have done research from as many sources as possible so that I can make an informed decision.
 
First of all there are 3 different US spec 1UZFE engines and possibly more if the JDM and Europe spec engines differ.

For the US spec you have
1990-1994 1UZFE LS400 engine (1992-1995 SC400)
rated 250hp/186kW @ 5600rpm and 260tq/353Nm @ 4400rpm
(IMO this engines actual output is closer to 230hp/240tq)
10.0 to 1 compression.
224 degrees intake duration (3 BTDC, 41 ABDC) apx .301"/7.65mm lift
229 degrees exhaust duration (41 BBDC, 3 ATDC) apx .305"/7.75mm lift


1995-1997 1UZFE LS400 engine (1996-1997 SC400)
rated 260hp/194kW @ 5300rpm and 270tq/366Nm @ 4500rpm
(IMO these are accurate numbers)
10.4 to 1 compression
232 degrees intake duration (6 BTDC, 46 ABDC)
Intake lift increases over previous design but likely no more than .309"/7.85mm,
I could not find specifics only that it was increased.
229 degrees exhaust duration (41 BBDC, 3 ATDC)
Exhaust lift is same as earlier design.

1998-2000 1UZFE VVTi (variable valve timing intelligent, all models, LS,GS,SC)
300hp/224kW @ 6000rpm and 310tq/418Nm @ 4000rpm
(IMO these are accurate numbers)
10.5 to 1 compression.
230 degrees intake duration (-14 ~36 BTDC, 64 ~14 ABDC)
229 degrees exhaust duration (41 BBDC, 3 ATDC)
I am looking for lift numbers but haven't found a factory rating.

Prices range from as low as $400 for an early engine.
Later engines start at around $2000.

So, you see, asking how much power a twin turbo 1UZFE can make depends on many questions. Actually, twin or single turbo will make the same potential power. If you are asking with the STOCK assembly, and want to know what is the limit of the engine regarding power output... I would guess the original engine may make the most power due to its lower compression and that allowing more boost. But the 1998 engines have superior intake manifolding. 400hp is easy and has been done. I would say 500hp on the stock assembly if done correctly would be safe. 600hp for short duration boost under ideal operating conditions. The major limiting factor being the cast pistons. You could possibly make over 700hp on a stock assembly in perfect conditions.

Also, what is your application? Short duration boost or extended running under boost?

If you are willing to rebuild with strengthened pistons and rods and turbo specific valvetrain... much MUCH more is possible. Engines have already been built that exceed 1450hp. (Some claim 2000hp) What are your goals?
 
the turbos of choice for a conversion like this are

2x VG20 turbos (kind of a T29 - bigger than a T28 but not quite a T3) for a moderate power, torquey, streetable combo.

2x ex 7MGTE CT26s for a more serious combo, still streetable but with more power potential and higher boost threshold.

2x GT30 - for a serious twin turbo build with external wastegates.

1x T70 - serious single turbo build with external wastegate.

1x GT45 / Holset HX55 - very serious build with 50mm wastegate a minimum.

that's my pick anyways. there's plenty of management options and fuel system options, but in all honesty
 
Ahhhh Just put an 892 Charger through the Bonnet..Woo-Hoo..

There is an ST185 Celica here with 1UZ Twin Snails & Ex Gates...Makes for seriuos fun..Only run upto 6psi for 300+ ATW
 
I imagine I'm about to step on a few people toes here, but here's my opinion. This is basically how the most successful turbo'd rice burners over here in OZ get so much HP. WRX's, Lancers and skylines this is pretty much the common approach to getting big HP.

If I could offer one word of advice I would say these three words... INTERCOOLER INTERCOOLER INTERCOOLER, and not some small 40mm thick piece of ****. Have a look at how the skylines GTR's and GTS-T's, Mitsubishi EVO's and WRX's do their front mount IC's. Don't worry about piping lengths for the intercooler connections. These DON'T cause excessive lag provided you've matched your turbo's properly. Look at Anthony's Twin 1uzfe setup. Its close on 2 meters of piping from turbo to throttle body and it makes boost that quickly that the car can't get traction at all, in any gear for that matter.

Intercooler water spray activated via the engine management or a pressure switch is HIGHLY recommended. Water evaporating from an aluminium intercooler core when air is flowing thru it can bring the skin temp of the core to near 0 degrees, dramatically improving intercooler efficency. If your going realy extreme, use a CO2 gas spray system to literally freeze your intercooler and get your air temp close to 0 degrees.

Only after getting your intercooler to peak efficency should you look at water & methanol injection. Using water injection to raise the octane rating rather than using it to cool the air charge and suck up the heat.

Cut up your front bar like crazy, and fit the biggest core you can get. Consider buying a GTR or Supra front bar and adapting it for the job as part of the make over. These have big gaps for airflow to the intercooler. GTR's fit MASSIVE intercoolers in their front bars. Look at the GTR-700 at http://www.exvitermini.com . 1300+ HP from an inline 6, and top quality intercooling the main reason its possible to run extreme boost.

Don't get some sort of core based on a truck intercooler either. They are inefficent and are not designed with perforance in mind. Anthony's core is 4" thick and the temp drop on it from compressor output to throttle body is amazing. Hot on one pipe and cold on the other. A noticable 30 degree+ drop. The more efficent your charge cooler the more boost you can run, the more ignition advance you can run and the more RELIABLE HP you will get.

Turbo's... well that depends on entirely how much HP you want to run. As for LAG well that will only be an issue if you don't have the right turbo for the job (Unless you've gone completely over the top and are pushing for more than 1000+ HP.

For something streetable, a pair of GT28RS 350HP turbo's would be ideal for 600HP at around 12-14lb boost. For more HP, upgrage to the GT28 with the 400 or 450hp trim for about 700-800 HP and 0 LAG. I think the GT30's 500 for is getting a little too close to the race end of the scale. In a twin system, a pair of GT30's would come on boost around 4000-4500 RPM, but would come on so hard that you would barely be able to hold on to the car. Fact is, if the road is wet you won't have a hope in hell of driving the car.

Engine management and injectors need to be matched to the job. Definatly an aftermarket ECU, autronic or wolf seems popular. High energy coils are a must, but consider upgrading to MSD digital 7 with 4 coils and a waste spark system if your shooting for more than 600 HP. You should also convert one of your distributors to a more accurate triggering system and run full sequential injection and larger injectors without suffering poor low end performance.

Thats about all I can think of for starters. One last thing... once a street car has around 500hp there is no way that you will want take your mother for a drive in it. Based on the lap Anthony took me for in his twin turbo commodore, that would give most people a heart attack.

Cheers,

Ian.
 
VWTurbo66 said:
Based on the lap Anthony took me for in his twin turbo commodore, that would give most people a heart attack.
that car is a weapon!! sounds so awsome!
can't wait to see a quarter mile time.


VWTurbo66 said:
a pair of GT28RS 350HP turbo's would be ideal
just on the topic of these turbo's... the almighty Disco Potato.
where are these available in Australia??
i looked and looked everywhere and found it extremely difficult to come across them. where are they available from?
 
www.boostedsytems.com Joe has everything.

Here is an example of temperature change with intercooling.
temp.jpg
Here are the readings:
1. Turbine Thermo Protection = 136.8F
2. Compresssor = 120.5F
3. Turbine without Thermo Cover = 411F
4. K&N Filter = 135F
5. Engine Temp. = 120.8F
6. Throttle Body = 105.7F
7. Intake = 85F
8. Intercooler Outlet = 76.4F
9. Intercooler Inlet = 85.0F
10. Down Pipe = 293F
11. Enviromental Temp = 60F

Today is very atypical temperature for California. During earlier today we had some mild rain. It would be interesting to see some temperature changes during a hot sunny day.

As yu can see the turbo glove like cover reduce turbine temperature from 411F to 136F. That is about 275F different.

Some of you might ask yourself. Why is the temperature increase from number 8 and 6. Its about 20F different. The re-gain of heat is most likely from heat soak from the engine, engine bay, radiator and heat radiates from the turbo.

This set up is HOT to Cold to Warm. Imagine the turbo and intake is at the same side like the SC300. HOT to Cold To Hot again.

The most important question is once you get the inlet temperature lowered via intercooling. You must make sure the intercooled air dont get heat up again. That will defect the whole purpose of intercooling. I have seen many people, including some supra owners. Have their inlet pipe run between the engine and radiator. This path will heat up the air again. How to protect the air from getting hot or reheat again is very important.

Matter of fact, i talked to a company during SEMA 2004. I think its called Cool It!. I suggested that they should make a thermo-sleeve that is 3" so we can slide them in and protect our inlet pipes. I will use some of them in my inlet pipes to protect heat from the radiator and engine.

I hope this post will help some of you.
 


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