Help - replaced timing belt, car wont start, backfires through intake.

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och

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161
Location
Brooklyn, NY
I finished replacing the timing belt today, and tried starting the car, but it wont start - it cranks, and after a few cranks it backfires smoke through the intake (makes horrible sound during the backfire too). I checked for spark, and both banks have spark. I cranked the car until crank pulley aligned with the "0" mark, removed timing belt/distributor covers to check cam gears, and they are aligned with corresponding marks.

I have no idea what else to check. Spark is there, timing seems to be correct, backfire indicates presence of fuel and air, right? What else can it be?

The only thing that I can think if, is maybe I messed up the cams? When I was trying to remove the crank bolt, I turned the crank counter clockwise a few times while I still had the old timing belt on, and so the cam gear turned clockwise as well, and the manual says not to do that (I didn't realize it when I turned them counter clockwise). Could I have messed up the position of the valves/cams by doing that? Is that likely to cause permanent damage?
 
The crank has been spinning numerous times while I was cranking the car, but when I manually set it to "0" both cam gears align with the marks on the back plate. From what I know, usually if the belt if off by one tooth, the car will run, just roughly?
 
Double check the rotors too. Sometime people mount them upside.

See, I thought of that when I installing them, but they only go in one way - they have a grove that wont let that happen.

I could've possibly messed up the cam/crank sensor wires when I was disconnecting/reconnecting them, but could that cause the car not to start?
 
The crank has been spinning numerous times while I was cranking the car, but when I manually set it to "0" both cam gears align with the marks on the back plate. From what I know, usually if the belt if off by one tooth, the car will run, just roughly?

Only one tooth off, it'll probably run, but more than that, you'll get the symptoms you mentioned. Which marks on the cam gears are you using to line up with on the back plate? The notches cut into the back of the gears, or the "tabs" on the back of the gears?

If you're using the tabs, that's not correct - those are there for the cam trigger pickups. You have to use the little notches that are cut in the rear of the cam gears.

A quick way to tell if you're using the right marks or not, is that the letters "L" & "R" on the cam gears will roughly line up with the marks on the back plates.

Here's a pic showing the cam gears lined up as they should be. Notice how the letters "L" & "R" are oriented to the marks on the back plate. Also notice on the right bank cam gear (the left hand gear in this pic) the little tab is around 90 degrees from the back plate.
 
I'm using the marks, just like in your picture. However, the marks on my cam gears are very faded compared to that picture, and the mark in the front of the gear is not visible at all, but the one in the back is somewhat visible, so I was able to align them.
 
Update:

Sure enough I had the timing belt on wrong. On the drivers side cam pulley there's another mark, and I had it aligned with that mark. It was about 10 teeth off. I reinstalled the belt and reassembled everything back together, but now my battery is dead so I can't test it. I gotta wait until my wife comes home so I can get boost and see if it starts. Could I have caused damage by having the pulley off so much?
 
One more thing... Lets say if it starts and everything goes well, there's one more thing, I dont have the crank pulley bolt tightened properly - only torqued as much as it allows before crank starts to spin.. However a friend of mine that live about 20 miles away has a compressor and an impact gun, and I'm wondering if it is safe for me to drive to his house so we can get it tightened.
 
I wouldn't use an impact gun on it if I were you, unless you think you'll never have to replace another timing belt :naughty:

Here's a fixture you can build, which can be used either to tighten or loosen that bolt. In the pic it shows the flatbar to be aluminum, but that material will flex a lot, so I'd suggest using steel flatbar instead:
 
Allright, charged the battery, cranked her up and she started right up without much drama. Drove around for an hour or so, temperature is normal, no visible leaks. Runs and accelerates smoothly, but I didnt take it over 2500 RPMs because my crank pulley isnt tighened. Will deal with that tomorrow. Thanks everyone for your help, and thaks God this is a non-interference engine!
 


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