Eaton M112 project

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mark3

New Member
Messages
17
Location
rainham
Its been a long time coming from when i first decided that i needed a blown V8 in my life last June, many people said if i want power go for the 1JZ and big single but i want a blown V8, its not a power thing but i will enjoy some extra horses.

Anyway yesterday in glorious sunshine (odd for the UK lol) i made a start just making sure everything i had actually fitted, and it does! :D


Plenum chamber off



Lower manifold off



New manifold in place



Supercharger in place



Throttle body adapter with throttle body attached and idle speed control valve too







New 320cc injectors test fitted to new manifold and new billet all fuel rails, injectors have all been cleaned and flow tested with paperwork and all new seals delivered for only £56 all the way from Vancouver!



Theres lots to do, well loads to be honest but it all fits and lines up with what it should line up with so im very VERY happy
 
Good work.

Before you button everything down, are your starter contacts in good condition? Now is the time to check/replace as it will be a PIA later.;)
 
Thought of that already and took delivery of an overhaul kit 3 days ago, cant imagine how pissed off i would be if it started playing up in a month or two lol
 
The throttle boy adapter does a great job of integrating the ISCV but I would like to see the progression from the adapter to the supercharger to be straighter.

I think the sharp turn (well not so much a turn as a miter) may cause some cavitation issues.

The supercharger needs the smoothest flow possible into the back of it to give all the boost it can.

I'd like to see the adapter made from a 60degree bend so it flowed better.
 
That would be good yes but at the moment needs must, you never know once its all done and settled in i may look into getting another made with a smoother flow but for now this will do just fine :)

The build continues :)
 
320cc injectors are fine for low boost and will give you a maximum of around 400 HP at the crank, but the parasitic load of the supercharger is going to eat into that, and you might lose around 50 HP or so just to it? Add another 10-15% drive train loss, and you'll probably get less than 300 to the wheels.

That may be all you want, but I'd think about a set of larger shooters for the future, too.
 
Did a bit more yesterday, fitted new contacts and plunger to the starter solenoid, hoovered out the V and fitted the new manifold, then played about with the fuel rails and fuel pipes ate the front and rear of the rails, the originals aren't going to fit so i have ordered some an fittings and good quality hose!









 
Done some more on Saturday, cut an ally ridge of the underside of the charger so it now fits nice onto the manifold







Modified front coolant bridge is fitted but it had a sensor hole in it that wasnt present in my old one so it was filled very nicely with a M16 universal sump plug and copper washer



I got 2 brand new Blueprint cam belt idler pulleys (for this very car) as drive belt guides and test fitted them



As you can see its very tight with the belt and top hose plus the right hand pulley (as seen from the front) is also to close to the hydrofan pump pulley so ill drill another hole ion the bracket and move it to the right about an inch, also ill replace the top hose with a slightly smaller diameter silicon hose, the new rad has a slightly smaller top hose connector so that wont be a problem.





Also i did wonder why i sometimes had a miss fire from cold starts, my right hand dizzy cap had seen better days, they and both the rotor arms have now been renewed for Blueprint items as well.

I think belt size i will be needing is 2730mm as my friend lent me one of his spare belts for his supercharged Soarer so i had somewhere to start from, also i need some longer M8 bolts for the guide pulley bracket, the stud used for the top of the bracket being too short BUT not coming out without removing the hyrdofan from the front of the engine which means the air con compressor had to come off too, lot of work for one dam fixing but its done now.

More work to come this week
 
I would HIGHLY suggest modifying the water bridge like the c's supercharger kit...
Cs_Supercharged_01_web.jpg
 
What are you going to do about the broken thread/mount hole for the thermostat?

Not sure one and a half bolts will hold it well enough.

I know it won't be easy or cheap to replace it.

Have you thought about welding it up and redrilling and tapping again?
 
What are you going to do about the broken thread/mount hole for the thermostat?

Not sure one and a half bolts will hold it well enough.

I know it won't be easy or cheap to replace it.

Have you thought about welding it up and redrilling and tapping again?

New water (genuine) pump, idlers, tensioner, front main seal and do timing belt while motor is in bits would be the way to go...
 
In a round about way that's what I was suggesting.

If going to the effort of adding the M112 it's worth a few extra quid.
 
Your drive pulley is way too big!

You will quickly find that your blower drive pulley is way too big and that you will only get 4 - 5lb boost. If you go to the Eaton website and look up the specs on the blower. You should match the max blower speed (from memory around 12000 rpm) to the drive ratio multiplied by your max rev limit. I run the same blower with a 1.8" diameter blower pulley, rev limited set to 6600.
 
You will quickly find that your blower drive pulley is way too big and that you will only get 4 - 5lb boost. If you go to the Eaton website and look up the specs on the blower. You should match the max blower speed (from memory around 12000 rpm) to the drive ratio multiplied by your max rev limit. I run the same blower with a 1.8" diameter blower pulley, rev limited set to 6600.

1.8 is insane! I hope you mean 2.8!
 
Over-boosting the engine by running the supercharger at max revs at max engine revs isn't needed unless you're chasing max possible boost.

Work out the boost you want and calculate the drive ratio you need.

My attitude would be try it first and see how it goes.

Most it can cost you a different length belt if you change the pulley size.
 
Its been mentioned that i need a 3" pulley but ive seen a calculation chart for the Eaton M112 on a 1UZ and apparently a 3" pulley will give me 10psi which is way too much with stock compression ratio so im going to stay with the one i have for now and see what boost i actually have when its up and running, it will need changing as its an 8 rib pulley but it will work for now.

6 psi will make me happy :D
 


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