98 hilux v8, yeah!!!!!

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

hi-lex

New Member
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325
Location
albany west aus
well its finished, black single cab 1uz 5spd 33's, went awsome until the diff blew, only drove 10km max not even givn it a hard time, any one else with a lux had a diff go, its only got light duty gbox which should be the first to go, will post pics soon
 
You do not need a v8 to break your diff. One diff repair man I spoke to some years ago told me that whenever he heard that he had a hilux diff to repair he fully expected it to be in a diesel hilux. That being said if you look in some of these magazines featuring high performance cars you will find hilux diffs behind some motors putting out hundreds of horsepower more than your v8 and they seem to handle the power. I personally have broken several diffs in my hilux in the last 14 years. I put this down to the detroit locker i was using having plenty of backlash and putting undue shock loading on the gears now and then because of it. More than one hilux diff I have come across has had a loose nut holding the flange onto the pinion. This is not caused by the nut rotating on the shaft , the nut is staked onto the thread , it is caused by wear . Subsequently the pinion bearings no longer have proper preload and the pinion can move backwards and forewards.
When the pinion moves back towards the crownwheel the clearances are reduced and when there is enough movement the gears will bind and break.
The diesels I have driven have pretty severe engine braking when in the lower gears hence putting severe backward force on the pinion gear bringing it closer to the crownwheel. In my opinion this engine braking, or acceleration in reverse in a more powerful vehicle, combined with worn bearings will cause your diff to break. My suggestion for a happy relationship with your diff is maintain it to the proper specifications as regards bearing preload and gear clearance.
 
I think it was combination of a few things ,
1 helper coils on the back too stiff
2 he hit a hump in road under power which bcause of above lifted wheels enuf to lose trac then bite when it landed and shock load diff
3 this car had been driven like it was stolen by the guy that owned it b4 him,
it had no backlash supprisingly but 4 flange bolts were loose giving it artificial backlash, the excess backlash is not caused by wear more so the crush spacer squishes this is why they reccomend solid spacer and shims to set preload so Ive been told, I have driven my 2wd quite hard but its auto and 3.7 ratio so it doesnt seem to have as much balls, we gunna fix that but, soarer ecu/injectors an good exhaust an a 4.3 lsd then look out
 
Yeh, it has to be somthing else.
"G" series diffs (what youll have) are bullet proof.
Itll take a blown or turboed 1UZ to get close to having enough power to kill one.
 
Yeah, I blew mine up a week ago... chewed a 5 teeth off the pinion gear. Good thing it happened on the way to the 4wding not actually out in the bush.
I have just picked up the center rebuilt with an ARB air locker and hardened crown and pinion. From all reports it should be pretty tough.
As the other guys mentioned, these diffs are pretty strong and would take a blown motor to tear the gears... that being said, wear and tear or driver abuse is the main cause of pinion/crown failure.
In my case... old age (1985 model) of the diff, previous owner had a Chev V6 doing all sorts of heavy towing and heavy loads, so wear and tear. The bearing lands also showed signs of flaking, so the old fella had enough on a number of different fronts!

Cheers,
Shuey
 
I am still getting engine check light coming on after a short drive an error codes 83 84 85 which I think is cause no auto box but am gettin 42 for speed sensor, I have ss1 connected to speedo head reed switch same as I had when this ecu was in my lux and never had engine check light stay on, anybody help me here?
 
Tafarilion,
search the forums, you'll find most of the information is already there.

Read it all first and then you'll have a better idea and be able to ask some more specific questions.

Muzz
 
Muzza_NZ said:
Read it all first and then you'll have a better idea and be able to ask some more specific questions.

...instead of jumping into the middle of someone elses thread.
 

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Tafarilion,

Use the seach window (top right of this thread) type in something useful like manual SC400 or similar and see what you get.

Try looking through the whole "Drivetrain" section of the Forum. It isn't that big and every question you can pose is in there.

People won't help you if you don't help yourself.

We're a friendly bunch but we do ask,and expect, you to be a bit self reliant.
 
hi-lex, looks good! maybe its the camera angle, but it seems you have much more clearance between the radiator and the front of the engine than ive seen in other swaps.(older hilux, 2nd gen surfs) so im wondering, does this body style have a longer engine bay? thanks, brad
 
Iv wondered that too as all the guys with pre 97 4wd say front sump will fit but no way in the world will it fit the 98, I spaced the gearbox forward 25mm and has about 30-40 mm clearance to firewall an enuf up front to fit a 14" thermo with the old fan pump removed
 
wow, so you actually moved the tranny forward, and still have plenty of room! i need to go take some measurments of the newer hilux's/surfs. i kinda wondered if maybe this body style (then gen that you have) would be overall a little better for this swap from the standpoint of room in the engine bay. apparently so! thanks for the help.
brad
 


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