Project Thread 1uzte or 2jz

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

Shano

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4
Location
East london South Africa
Both in my great motors.. I realy want to boost the 1uz but iv heard the blocks are their weak point when boosted.. I'm looking at doing a track car at a safe 1000hp but will run 750 to 850 all day and reliabilty is key.. Can anybody point me in a good direction as what would be better. I will be up against rb25 a few ford and chev v8s but I want to stay with toyota. Thanks
 
Our wesbank v8s run 650 to 700hp here in soiuth africa. We have some pumping 900hp on turbo cars.. So I need to know what would be best. I have a 1uzfe I wnated to twin turbo but been told their blocks don't hold up.. Is that true ?
 
so 650 to 700 is quite a bit short of 750-850.

My stock engine made 650hp and ran fine in squirts...it wouldn't last at that hp for extended runs. That was stock though...the built engines here in Oz are doing that hp and more quite easily with no block failures.

All the supporting hardware becomes critical though and it's those bits keeping the engine alive. There are no inherent weaknesses in the UZ but you seem to be talking a full competition engine which will obviously require full competition $$$s.

keep us posted, if you stick with a UZ we'll all want to see it ;)

I'd use the 2UZ or VVTi 1UZ heads though as they flow much better and have simpler port angles to work with if you need a custom inlet manifold etc.
 
1UZ blocks are not weak, maybe the people having issues just don't know how to tune. we have run with 1200hp for over 300 1/4 mile passes and 100 passes with 850hp, plus 100+ dyno runs and the car attended driving events where it copped a flogging. the engine was freshened up and has been put back in to do another 200-300 passes with 1200-1350hp, there was no warping or damage of any kind, we even use the earlier block. i know race boats that our engine builder did making 1000hp and doing long distance races and coming up with no damage.
 
Hi Zuffen
The series your link is referring to is the National Championship Series. Only normally aspirated allowed, hence the small horses. :p
I have been out of the racing scene for a while now and not exactly sure of the regulations, but I think Shano is referring to a Regional Championship where FI may be allowed.
Don’t be blinded by maximum HP figures. For a circuit motor you want as little as possible turbo lag with lots of torque to give you good acceleration out of the corners. :D
As previously stated: The block and crank are strong enough. Throw in a set of competition rods and forged pistons. Speck the turbos correctly. Give it a nice gas-flow, maybe with mild-ish cams.
Don’t skimp on the ECU! This is one of the most important components to make reliable power! ;)
Great project. Keep us posted!
 
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With power numbers listed, I'd use a 2JZ just because they're more popular to be tuned that way. More aftermarket ready to go solutions. Iron block, single vvti, factory provisions for turbo cooling and lubrication and other minor things contribute to my opinion 2JZ is better suited for your application.
 
if you can fabricate your own inlet, exhaust which imo isn't that hard..
The 4.0 has more throttle response and possibly lighter , can be recessed back in engine bay.. Keep bore liners strong, only bore if you have to..
What have you done as its been some time now ?
 
If you are comparing a stock internal 1UZ vs a stock Internal 2jz-"GTE" the internals on the 2jz-"GTE" can handle a lot more. but cost in the US is probably $250-300 for a used 1uz to $3000-3500 for a 2jz-"GTE" I keep saying "GTE because the "GE" does not have the forged connecting rods.

The weak point on the 1UZ is the rods & pistons. Not the block. although I have seen the second gen 1uz, and 3uz blocks form a crack from the main oil tube running above the crank up. I have been told this is an oil sludge issue, and keeping good clean oil in the motor stops this. I have not seen this on the early 1UZ.

THe 1UZ is a lot lighter then a 2JZ. the Heads are very similar, and this is where the power is really made.
The 2JZ is much easier to get parts for. David (lextreme) is a really good source for the 1UZ.
I had a buddy with a 94 SC300 2jz-gte single turbo 6-speed making about 530-540HP and we raced when my SC400 was a TT 1UZ 6-speed making about 510-520HP You probably couldn't find two cars more closely matched and a better way to compare the 2jz to the 1UZ.
He was very upset by how much the 1UZ would pull on his SC300
He was sure it was a tuning issue, and took it back to the tuning shop. They drove the car, dyno tuned it again, and confirmed that the car was just like it should be.
I later drove his SC300. There is a huge difference between when the power finally comes on, and how the motor feels like its working in the L6 versus the effortless feeling you get, and the instant torque of the V8.

The power is there right away with the 1UZ. the spool comes in much quicker. Both motors made about the same HP, but the torque came in much lower, and the 1UZ made the SC much more fun to drive.

Now it took my buddy about 1 year to get his car up and running. and I've lost track of how long I've been working on my SC.

Don't get me wrong I think its awesome that 8-900+ HP is being made out of some stock 2JZ's but in my opinion if you have the time, and are willing to put equally good parts in, the 1UZ is a better motor.

Bob
 


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