1UZ vs 2UZ into FJ45LV Land Cruiser

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

woytovich

New Member
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32
Location
Metro, NY
The 1966 FJ45LV is a wagon style Land Cruiser - quite a bit larger than an FJ40. I am looking to build a nice running street/highway/expedition vehicle with enough power to tow a decent sized cargo or camping trailer. I'm geeked to try a 1UZ or 2UZ swap but I am getting some mixed info on what would be the "better" swap.

I am not looking for a fast hot rod build. I want power enough to move the truck down the road confortably. I want to be able to step on it and get up to speed without serious delay but I'll never race it... As well, I am not going to be doing any real "wheeling" with the truck so no need for gobs of slow/low end torque for that either.

I know the 2 was used in the trucks and SUVs and the 1 in cars. Will I be disappointed with a 1UZ in the 45LV?

Any input would be appreciated.

Mark
 
Not mine (I wish) but this is a 45LV

lv%20003.jpg
 
I have Man-a-Fre Land-cruiser right behind my shop. Every once in awhile I see one of those over there. I think it will move it down the road OK. I am not sure it would handle and real heavy offroading. They have quite a bit of torque but with large tires and the drivetrain loss I don't think it would handle much more over trail driving.

Jake
 
Are you saying it will be ok on the road but NOT on the trail? The truck will be running 33" tires and I have a choice of diff gearing (and tranny to some extent) to keep things in balance.
 
Its a very subjective thing. The 1U engine in that vehicle for me would work fine on the street. Light duty trailing would work good as well. After that I think you might find the engine will start running out of power. Running on the dunes would also quickly show the limits of the engine. Gearing would mitigate this to some extent but at the sacrifice of street driving. Again my idea of working well probably wont be yours. Going to to a OBDII 1U will make it better. Going to a VVTi 1U will make it even better yet.

Jake
 
No dunes, no mud bogs, no rock crawling.... Street, highway, towing, hills, maybe the occasional dirt road. I guess my concern is: is the LV too heavy for the motor? Is it the cam of the 1 vs 2 that makes the 2 the truck/suv motor?
 
Thanks for the perspective. The next part of the question I guess is: Are any of the various flavors of 1U and 2U any "easier" or "harder" to use for a swap? At what point do I start to have to deal with more complicated (or more expensive to solve) wiring/sensor issues?
 
Are the sump pans interchangeable or are they dictated by the engine? I saw one build where the pan had to be modified to allow for the axle housing - not a deal breaker if that is a viable solution.

How would one determine the need for a specific pan format short of hanging an engine in the truck? maybe measuring where the axle is in relation tot he engine bay?
 
I think the 2uz would be a better choice. The sump is more likely to be correct and the 45 would like the extra torque. The sumps are all interchangeable. The 2uz has a rear type sump with the bowl offset to one side. They work perfectly in 70 series cruisers. Maybe even do the complete 2uz motor/box which should make it pretty simple providing the transfer box outputs are in the correct place.
 
I have a line on an H150 and transfer near-ish to me. it is set-up currently to bolt to a 3F I’m told. It has a 10 spline input shaft.

There is the bell housing plus a (approx 5/8” thick) adapter plate (that wasn’t pictured) that goes between it and the block. The transmission output is 10 spline for the 3F/2F application.

So my question is: is the adapter plate something that comes in different flavors to allow this bell housing to mate to different engines? If so which…? is it possible to make this bell housing and shaft work with a 2UZ or would I be needing to source the right bell housing AND swap the transmission input shaft? I think I might need a longer input shaft?
 
UPDATE:
I have:

2004 Lexus LX470 2UZ with full harness

H151 manual 5 speed transmission that WAS hooked up to a 2UZ, along with the bellhousing etc etc, and the ECU/harness from the 2UZ it was on.

Looking for input on a wiring solution to get this to run. I am thinking a Spitronics or similar rather that playing the chop and adapt game with the harnesses I have.

Any thoughts? Any input on how much work (and voodoo) it is to get one of the stock harnesses to work (remember, this is all going in a 1966 Land Cruiser)

Thanks,
mark
 
I'm not worried about it EVENTUALLY running well... I'm concerned about the "voodoo" work required to get the harness to work in an old vehicle that does not have all of the "stuff" the LX470 had....
 
My car used to be a carby one. Now it has 1uz-fe vvti ouf of LS400, had no problem getting it to work ok. 2uz-fe is just about the same story as 1uz-fe
 
So.... what DIDN'T the car have that the LS400 did? What did you need to modify in the harness to get the engine to not care about the missing items?
 
The engine can be made to run as a stand alone item and doesn't need any of the fancy gear in an LS400.

Like George my car was a carby car and it runs the 1UZ without any problems. It even ran a supercharged 1UZ without any voodoo or witchcraft needed.

Essentially 8 wires and it can be made to run as a manual and only a few more as an auto.
 


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