1UZ in Thai longtail boat

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by melvinmelvin, Jul 8, 2017.

  1. gloverman

    gloverman Active Member

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    I'm not sure your suggestion is the best way to go.

    I do up really simple looms for boats.
    B terminal to battery via a main 100-120 amp fuse
    IG terminal still needs ignition feed with key on
    S - Loop onto the B
    L - I prefer to run a light but these alternators will excite/charge fine without it.
     
  2. melvinmelvin

    melvinmelvin Member

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    OK, thanks a heap.
    Will write this down and implement it next time I open the loom, (quite time consuming to open - much more than just tape that has to go).

    Will do B <--> positive buss (both batteries have a 200A fuse on the pole)
    Will skip L
    Will do S <--> B
    Will do ignition-on <--> IG (outside the loom)

    How much A will IG draw? Would a 2A fuse suffice?

    Just to make sure I do not misunderstand you.
    When you say B, do you mean the small, M4 or so, bolt/nut on the backside of
    the alternator that is cose to the B marking?
    Or do you mean the larger M8 bolt that sticks out on the side of the alternator?
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2017
  3. gloverman

    gloverman Active Member

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    B is the m8 bolt that comes out the side of the alternator which the main supply attaches too.

    I think your boat needs a simplier loom.
     
  4. melvinmelvin

    melvinmelvin Member

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    Thanks.
    Will do this simplification, for sure. Gives me real pleasure every time a wire can be removed from the 1UZ loom.
    And this is big party time, 3 wires down the drain in 1 go. (the ignition-on --> IG plint will go in my own wiring arrangement outside the 1UZ loom)

    Yes, I am almost certain that I would do just fine with a much simpler loom.
    However, I don't know enough about such electrical systems to screen diagrams and remove wires, alas.
     
  5. melvinmelvin

    melvinmelvin Member

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    Couldn't agree more than with glovermans comment "I think your boat needs a simplier loom".

    For the fun of it, have compiled a list of "things" done to my 1UZ which I think ought to result in a slimmer/simpler loom;


    Electrical/electronic wired “thingies” that are «gone»:

    Toyota gearbox and bell house, removed

    Servo pump, (steering and brakes), removed

    Air condition, removed

    Toyota radiator and fans, removed (existing arrangement (my cabling, fusing and relays) has no need for any ECU help)

    Diagnostic plug, if any, removed

    Toyota fuel pump, removed (existing 1-speed pump has no ECU help (my cabling/fusing))

    All Toyota instruments, removed

    Existing instruments;

    fuel level + oil pressure + oil temperature + gear oil temperature + coolant temperature + RPM + engine hour counter + battery monitors are all fed through sensors and wiring that I have supplied, except that the RPM gauge takes its tacho feed from one of the igniters (my cable outside the loom)

    No need for any choke/cold-start arrangements, hardly ever below 25 Celsius here, mostly above 30 Celsius.

    No need for any idling control/adjustment as electrical loads/consumers/sinks are switched on/off.

    Everything related to water and oil cooling is my arrangement, no ECU help needed.

    Exhaust temperature sensors removed. The exhaust system from engine manifold flange and all the way out is made by me.

    Toyota ignition switch, fuses, radio, information, entertainment stuff, removed



    In the vicinity of the air intake, the large flexible hose and the rigid body, there are some relatively large electrical connectors (with more wires than I like to look at). A couple of these connectors look as if they have a certain amount of internal brains.

    I have no idea if they are considered “everlasting” or if they should be renewed. AFM and fuel adjuster are words coming to mind without me having a good understanding of what they actually do.

    My guess is that the AFM quantifies the amount of air passing a certain point in the intake conduit and that the “fuel brain” adjusts the squirts of fuel from the injectors partly based on measured air flow and partly on the demands from the throttle wire, (and probably RPM and engine load/output also plays a role here).

    Not sure if any of these could be simplified and not at all sure about possible consequences of any simplification.
     
  6. melvinmelvin

    melvinmelvin Member

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    Have compiled a list of various parts that have been changed/renewed on my 1UZ,
    would be very interested if anybody had some comments about the parts at the bottom of the list, the ones in ? ? marks.
    Are these parts that should be renewed every "now and then"?

    New parts: over the past 4 years

    (1994 or thereabouts Celsior)


    Starter, new (Toyota)

    Sparkplug leads, new (Toyota)

    Coil leads, new (Toyota)

    Water pump, new (Toyota)

    Oil pump, new (OEM, based on new original Toyota pump)

    CPV valve and grommet, new (Toyota)

    Injectors and all seals, refurbished DENSO

    All valve seals, new (Toyota)

    Rotors, new (Toyota)

    Water cooling and oil cooling arrangements, new (OEM)

    Plenty oil seals and O-rings and gaskets and hoses, new (Toyota and OEM)

    Timing belt and alternator belt, new (Toyota)



    ? Should probably change coils ?

    ? Should probably change the sockets for the spark plug leads on the distributors ?

    ? Igniters, are they "everlasting" or due for renewal ?
     
  7. melvinmelvin

    melvinmelvin Member

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    QUESTION ON WIRING THE STARTER
    Can the starter on a 1UZ (2nd generation - pre VVT) be wired completely independent of the ECU?
    Does the ECU need to know when I turn my key from ignition-on position to start position?

    Will big positive cable from battery to starter and smaller positive cable from ignition switch START position to starter (for triggering the solenoid)
    and local grounding for starter do?

    (I know I could probably find this out myself by studying my ECU loom.
    I have three positive cables entering the wrapping for the ECU loom close to the ECU, battery+ and ingnition-on and start,
    and I have forgotten what happens (if anything) to these cables inside the wrapping.
    The wrapping goes all the way from about the camshafts all the way down to below the oilpan and across the floor to the ECU.
    And the wrapping is several layers of tape and plastic/PVC tubing. Pretty waterproof, IP67 I would say.)

    Its quite a job to uncover the cabling, likewise quite a job to make it waterprooof again.
    Hence the question.
    I assume some of you know this off the top of your heads.
     

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