1UZ in Thai longtail boat

[melvinmelvin]

Got the idea of makig an update of the boat stuff.
(I know I posted pics on the forum before but I just cannot find the thread/entries.)

So here comes a new thread in the "anything goes" forum.

I have a ca 10 m long longtail boat made of hardwood in a canal just 5-6 km north of Bangkok.
The power train is;
1UZ (pre vvt), Isuzu bellhouse+clutch, Mazda gearbox, 175 inches of longtail, 2-bladed screw.

I have furnished the pics with some explanatory text, the only way I manage to do that is to
insert the pics into PPT (Power Point) files, compress them and then ZIP them in order to upload to the forum.

So here goes;

 

[melvinmelvin]

An external view, with some comments:

 

[melvinmelvin]

More external view;

 

[melvinmelvin]

Final external view;

 

[melvinmelvin]

The following shows three pics and tales of the exhaust stuff;

 

[melvinmelvin]

Now turning to power/electrical;
(pic is taken from aft towards fore, text under the pic in the PPT file)

 

[melvinmelvin]

The main power control panel, and the batteries;
(the batteries are immediately in front of the radiator, and below of course,
the longtail is now dipped deep in the water to facilitate the view)

 

[melvinmelvin]

Right hand side of the boat, immediately under the mill's right side;

 

[melvinmelvin]

Here comes 3 pics/tales of the outer right side (ie inside of the hull);
(this is mainly engine, instrument, loom control)

 

[melvinmelvin]

The inner left side;
(pump and power consumer mgt/control)

(bad pic, need to be outside the boat to take this shot properly, was not in mood for wading in the crappy water the other day)

 

[melvinmelvin]

Two pics of the outer left side;
(pump and consumer/sink controls)

 

[Zuffen]

I hope you have a detailed wiring diagram to work with.

The tourists would be in for a thrill when you wind it up.

Must sound good!

 

[melvinmelvin]

I hope you have a detailed wiring diagram to work with.

The tourists would be in for a thrill when you wind it up.

Must sound good!

Sounds good, especially below 2500, happy V8 sound. The exhaust pipes (To Ai Siia) are a tad short for the real rock/roll sound.

Yes man, detailed wiring diagrams (wong jon we call 'em) in colour - laminated copies in the boat.

 

[melvinmelvin]

I hope you have a detailed wiring diagram to work with.

The tourists would be in for a thrill when you wind it up.

Must sound good!

Re diagram:
I always start out with drafting wiring diagrams, helps the thinking.

It may not be obvious when looking at the pics but available space for electrical thingies is very small,
there are also the limitations that the beams represent, the beams are roughly a foot apart.

When I think the Nth draft of the diagram is OK I make a model of what I intend to do on a table on the terrace.
I get the switches, studs, stash/thingies, cable pipes out and arrange it on a table. Measuring and re-arranging so that I am sure there is space enough for what I want to do.

Takes time but is necessary.

 

[melvinmelvin]

I take my chances of posing some questions re my 1UZ here rather than making a new thread.

Finally I have received from Brexit land the spareparts I have been waiting for,
took a month to get the parcel through customs, things ain't going fast in Thailand.

NOW:
Last time I played around with the engine I detected engine oil in one of the 4 exhaust pipes,
so the culprit should be one or both of two cylinders.
I have bought new cylinder head gaskets and new oil seals for all the valves.
New grommet and valve for CPV.
New gaskets/oil seals related to the cams.
(also finally managed to get the plugs recommended by gloverman)

Somewhere here I saw a video or tutorial on how to change the stem valve seals without taking off the cylinder head.
Doesn't appeal to me to try, the space at the sides of the engine is quite small and its too easy to loose small bits over board.
Hence, that way of doing it is ditched.

My thinking;
off with the exhaust pipes, off with the radiator, off with the radiator fans,
off with intake stuff and injectors
probably off with distributors (cannot remember), uncover the timing belt and associated stuff, uncover the cams
then turn the engine as if changing timing belt so that the various marks matches, probably do some marking on my own with paint or felt pen
then off with the cylinder heads - including the cams

then do the oil seal/stem valve stuff on the terrace rather than in the boat

? Does this sound about right ?
? Anything in particular I should look out for ?

In a tutorial/table I found on this forum I saw that for the cylinder head boltes
the recommended torque was 29 Nm + 1 complete turn.
To me this kind of means no torque checking after having run the engine for a wee while.
? Comment ?

 

[melvinmelvin]

ADVICE SOUGHT:

Where on the 1UZ do I find the engine's seriel number stamped in??

 

[melvinmelvin]

QUESTION (-----> ADVICE PLEASE):

Unless it pisses down tomorrow I will have a go at removing the cylinder head(s) for the purposeof changing the valve oil seals.

Have read a bit in relevant tutorials linked to from this forum.

I have forgotten what it really looks like when all the covers are removed.

My idea was to remove the cylinderhead, including the cams, and remove the cams after the cylinder head has been removed.
Is that at all possible or must the camshafts be removed before the cylinder head(s) can be removed?

 

[cribbj]

I'm trusting to a 10 year old memory here, but I'm pretty sure the cams had to come out before the head fasteners became accessible. Perhaps Gloverman will jump in & clarify.

 

[Zuffen]

You don't need to lift the heads to do seals.

There are two ways of doing it.

1. Feed string down into the cylinder and wind it around to TDC and the valves should stay shut.

2. You can also use compressed air to hold the valves shut with either the cams out or the valves rocking on the appropriate cylinder.

A lot less work than pulling the motor down.

 

[melvinmelvin]

You don't need to lift the heads to do seals.

There are two ways of doing it.

1. Feed string down into the cylinder and wind it around to TDC and the valves should stay shut.

2. You can also use compressed air to hold the valves shut with either the cams out or the valves rocking on the appropriate cylinder.

A lot less work than pulling the motor down.

Thanks a heap for replying Zuffen.

Thank you, I have seen the tutorials re string/rope and compressed air.
(compressed air I don't have - string I have in abundance)

My observed problem:
engine oil leaking into the exhaust pipe for cylinders 6 and 8.
My perception of what is wrong;
either the seals or a screwed cylinder head gasket that let oil seep into the chamber, or both.

(I fancied changing the cylinder head gasket regardless - it has been used before - at lest twice (that is Thai style))

Why I opted for taking the heads off (cams included):
Some of the text in the tutorials made me somwewhat skeptical, all the warnings and the pinpointing of how easy it is to lose small bits and pieces.
The working environmant is challenging - very narrow space at the side of the engine,
the engine bobbing up and down and rolling as waves pass, (in particular on Sundays, ie tomorrow).
(No, can't do it on weekdays - have fucked up my right shoulder and need help from my neighbour)

But if you say the string method is fully feasible and straight forward I will give it a try.