1UZ doesn't start (igniter?/timing?)

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Failing block-cylinderhead gasket?

The boat has been with the builder for a couple of weeks, sorting out some minor stuff.

Fired up yesterday for the first time in 3 weeks.
As usual the solenoid didn't click when it has not been used for a "long" time. Couple of knocks with a hammer on the bellhouse sorted that.

Fired up very easy. Ran smooth on all 8 (I assume). Revving fine, quick response. Idling fine at about 500, with cold engine. No visible exhaust fumes.
(cold means 30 odd degrees Celsius)
(still have the rather cold NGK sparkplugs, mentioned above, in the mill)
Wanting to test the thermoswitch relays and radiator fans I let it run.
(the water is circulating in the engine all the time, it has no thermostat)

When water temp approached 45-50 degrees Celsius white smoke started to come from one of the 4 exhaust pipes.
(the pipe for cylinders 2 and 4)
Revving offered more white smoke.

Stopped. Let it cool down completely. Repeat start.
The same scenario was repeated. First fine, when warming up --> white smoke.

The only thing I can think of off hand that causes the white smoke would be water leaking into the cylinder(s).
Hence, the smoke being steam rather than smoke.

Any other ideas than gasket failure?

Now. If the cause is gasket failure I don't quite understand why it starts off fine and only offers "smoke" after warmed up.
Would have thought the pressure on the gasket would increase with increasing temperatures.

(hmm, this thread is kind of turning into a blogg, thanks for your patience)
 
I had one do that. It had an issue with the PCV valve. New valve and it was sorted. I also checked the air inlet into the other tappet cover to confirm it was clear and unrestricted. Normally antifreeze would cause some but none of that if you are running a raw water setup.
 
I had one do that. It had an issue with the PCV valve. New valve and it was sorted. I also checked the air inlet into the other tappet cover to confirm it was clear and unrestricted. Normally antifreeze would cause some but none of that if you are running a raw water setup.

many thanks
have done some PCV googling, will look for that stuff later (its pitch dark here now)

(I'm using Toyota pre-mixed anti freeze)

but how would an ailing PCV valve cause white smoke from cylinder 2 and/or 4 only?
 
I had one do that. It had an issue with the PCV valve. New valve and it was sorted. I also checked the air inlet into the other tappet cover to confirm it was clear and unrestricted. Normally antifreeze would cause some but none of that if you are running a raw water setup.

found an interesting piece on PCV here;

http://oppositelock.kinja.com/ditch-that-pcv-system-before-it-is-too-late-1634156554


(but why feed back in at all? collect the oil and let the rest go into the air?)
 
If you are running a heat exchanger then the smoke may well be antifreeze burning as it makes plenty of white smoke.

Why no thermostat? Does the engine get up to 80 degrees?

That article is good until he suggested putting a filter onto the catch can showing they don't understand how the PCV system works and improves engine efficiency when working correctly. Having a catch can in series can be beneficial.
 
If you are running a heat exchanger then the smoke may well be antifreeze burning as it makes plenty of white smoke.

Why no thermostat? Does the engine get up to 80 degrees?

That article is good until he suggested putting a filter onto the catch can showing they don't understand how the PCV system works and improves engine efficiency when working correctly. Having a catch can in series can be beneficial.

No, I do not have an heat exchanger. Its a closed cooling system with a radiator and radiator fans that are temperature controlled, just like in a car.

Yes, it comes up to 80 and 80 and a bit, takes a while though.
(I have 5 fans on the oil cooler, I don't start these until the coolant is around 80 degrees)
I would have preferred to have a thermostat. Problem is that I've had so much trouble with the original Toyota thermostats.
They stop working properly after a relatively short period of time, resulting in overheating.
Got fed up with that and just removed the thermostat.
(its more cumbersome to pick it out than on some cars I have seen, have more stash in front of the engine than cars have)


anyway, going downtown after the morning rush to look for ND SK20R(11) plugs, will check if they have PCV valves aswell. and if they have cylinderhead gaskets
 
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Strange to have an issue with genuine thermostats. I prefer to use the genuine ones and after using hundreds have had no issues. By removing the thermostat you leave the bypass circuit open so there is a passage for water to not circulate through the radiator. It's interesting running a radiator in boat but I sometimes forget as we run jetboats over here so have a good supply of cooling water. Is the radiator cross flow or vertical flow?
 
Strange to have an issue with genuine thermostats. I prefer to use the genuine ones and after using hundreds have had no issues. By removing the thermostat you leave the bypass circuit open so there is a passage for water to not circulate through the radiator. It's interesting running a radiator in boat but I sometimes forget as we run jetboats over here so have a good supply of cooling water. Is the radiator cross flow or vertical flow?

Those thermostats have surprised me too, no end.

I hadn't thought of that bypass. Good that you mentioned it. But I have no heating issues without the thermostat.
There are 2 Bosch fans on the radiator, fairly powerfull fans me thinks. There is NO amp marking on them.
But from experience, they burn 30 amp fuses. I have put in 50 amp fuses which don't burn.
The radiator is quite big, Monster 3 inch.
From memory I think its vertical flow, would have to check (pitch dark here now).

Yes, not many boats around here have that cooling setup.
The reason why I wanted a completely closed cooling system is that the water is terrible, full of shit and heavy metals and acids
I don't fancy pumping through the engine.
The water is also salty. Where I live, a few kilometers north of Bangkok and 70 kilometers from the ocean, we have normal tidal waters.
This time of the year about 1.5 meter up/down per tide, (tells you how flat the terrain is). And this results in salty water.
A closed system based on underhull pipes is not a suitable solution here. Hence, radiator.
Of course; could have used a heat exchanger, but good radiators and intercoolers are available everywhere for decent prices, not so with heat exchangers.

If I ever get the time I could fancy trying what I see they use in some ski boats in the US.
(they also prefer not pumping the salty stuff through their V8s)
They use a relatively small box, eg GRP, about the size of 2 cases of beer on top of each other.
They pump the floating water in/out of that box and then they submerge a relatively small radiator in that box.
In effect this is a cheap and simple heat exchanger and according to what they say more than adequate for their V8s.
(a few boats here have that setup)
 
I had one do that. It had an issue with the PCV valve. New valve and it was sorted. I also checked the air inlet into the other tappet cover to confirm it was clear and unrestricted. Normally antifreeze would cause some but none of that if you are running a raw water setup.

right, PCV valves for 1UZ not available in the spare part shops and not from Toyota Thailand.
Which leaves the scrapyards as possible sources.

Will take the PCV valve out, clean it and check that the ball is working, and also check the other end of the hose.

(they could provide cylinder head gaskets though, at least they said so)
 
That is Nippon denso plugs. If yours is Gen 2 then the SK20R or SK20R11. Being in a boat I would most likely go for the smaller gap.

right,
today venture downtown resulted in 2 shops saying that DENSO SK... are not available in Thailand.
not sure I buy that but that was what they said, SK..... not available.

Anyway, from various conversion tables I have landed on NGK IFR6T11 (IFR6T8 doesn't seem to exist) as an alternative.
 
I had one do that. It had an issue with the PCV valve. New valve and it was sorted. I also checked the air inlet into the other tappet cover to confirm it was clear and unrestricted. Normally antifreeze would cause some but none of that if you are running a raw water setup.


checked the PCV valve, its open, it does not close, good flow through it
and good flow through the hose aswell as the pipe leading into the air intake

so guess I need to trawl some scrapyards to find a working valve

(btw, the radiator is vertical flow)
 
checked the PCV valve, its open, it does not close, good flow through it
and good flow through the hose aswell as the pipe leading into the air intake

so guess I need to trawl some scrapyards to find a working valve

(btw, the radiator is vertical flow)

at last got the PCV valve out, cleaned it, sucked it - closes / opens OK, it seems
bugger, when puttig it back in the o-ring/seal stuff broke
so now; scrapyards: here we come
 
fired it up several times today, running somewhat odd
white smoke developed, but today had some slight wind so that the white smoke blew strait into my face, not steam but some kind of exhaust for sure

injector cylinder 2 didn't work today, white smoke frome pipe serving cylinder 2 and 4
worse; engine oil coming out of exhaust pipe for cylinder 2 and 4

don't know,
but my idea would be that the seals for the valves (outlet/inlet valves) have reached their "eat by" date
so changing 32 valve seals seems to be worth while doing
 
PCV:
Wonder over wonders, Toyota Thailand had the grommet for the PCV valve.
After cleaning and rinsing the PCV valve it seems to be working as it should.
Anyway, have ordered a new PCV valve from UK.

Stem seals:
Have ordered a set of 32 from UK.
Toyota Thailand can muster 6 seals.
If I could get my hands on 8 pieces I would take the cylinder head off and change on cylinder 2 and 4 and do the rest later.
(not inclined to change seals with the head on, too little space at the side of the engine, and not a fan of losing springs or the like into the canal)
(the 32 from UK will take time, my UK mate is off to Bangkok today, the seals will arrive from remote store tomorrow (just my luck), so must wait
for mate to finish his stint - get back to UK - and post the stuff to me)
Have looked at ebay and similar, they seem to sell 32 by 32 only. (and several do not ship to Thailand at all)

Electrical (small stuff - engine control):
I think (pray?) that this is sorted now, about time.
(ordered the proper DENSO plugs from UK as well)

Electrical (big stuff - main supply -AWG2 cables):
Have an intermittent problem somewhere. Have 2 identical batteries. They are almost brand new and big (90 Ah) and are on maintenance charging 24/7.
Sometimes when trying to start using battery#2 the starter struggles, just like it does when pole voltage is low, but my pole voltage is 12.8V.
Should be easy to find such a glitch, but it isn't. The supply system is quite comprehensive, lots of switches, lots of terminals and some busses and lots
of AWG2 cables.
My fancy for an elaborate power supply system is hitting back on me. (buggers)

ANYBODY
have 2 surplus stem seals? that could be airmailed to me?
Yes, of course I would pay for that!!

cheers
 
Good indicators for sloppy stem seals and valve guides are:

A puff of smoke on startup (due to oil leaking past the stem seals & guides since the last run)

Smoke on deceleration (vacuum "pulls" oil past the seals & guides)


#2 AWG cables are on the smallish side, depending how far the batteries are from the motor. I'd prefer either #1 or 1/0.
 
Good indicators for sloppy stem seals and valve guides are:

A puff of smoke on startup (due to oil leaking past the stem seals & guides since the last run)

Smoke on deceleration (vacuum "pulls" oil past the seals & guides)


#2 AWG cables are on the smallish side, depending how far the batteries are from the motor. I'd prefer either #1 or 1/0.

I am having oil actually dripping from the exhaust pipe serving cylinder 2 and 4.
(not far away from the end of the pipe, but through a 3/4 inch water inlet hole (wet exhaust) about 1 m from the cylinder head)


The batteries are below and just in front of the radiator. The positive buss bar serving the starter is right below the radiator. Cable length about 1 m (or less).
Shouldn't be too bad with AWG2 me thinks.
 
I think you're on the right track then :)

Cables should be fine with those lengths, as long as your connections are good. Have you shot the connections with an IR laser gun?
 
I think you're on the right track then :)

Cables should be fine with those lengths, as long as your connections are good. Have you shot the connections with an IR laser gun?

The connections are crimped on ring terminals with M8 or M10 bolts. Any loss ought to be negligable.
The starter cable goes from the positive buss bar (M10) to a short cable from the starter hanging down about 20 cm from the engine, there the connection is 2 crimped on ring terminals with M8 or M10 bolt.
So maybe there is a problem betweeen the buss and the battery pole, there are a few "thingies" in between;
battery fuse (M6), small buss bar inside the battery casing, (M6) cable to terminal block (M10), cable to on/off switch (M10), cable to positive battery selector switch (M8 or M6), cable to positive buss (M10).
(all thingies are from BEP in New Zealand, excellent stuff, designed for marine use and take loads of 200-300 amps)

No haven't measured temperature, that will be the next step, after oil in exhaust pipe is sorted, don't fancy starting now.
Funny thing though, the starter struggling with supply from battery#2 is not consistent.
 


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