1993 1uz into 1990 ls400 with cd009 6spd

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Cd400

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I've been working on swapping a 93 motor into my ls400 since I had one around. I used to have the original motor with a w58 but I went thru a few clutches and got sick of the notchy shifter. So I sold the combo and decided to go with the cd009 however im having issues getting it to crank. I followed a diagram I found and have power going down what I believe to be the only required terminals on the 4th ECU plug. There are 4 other plugs on the harness two white and two grey. Three of them plugged into my existing connectors coming from the body under the glove box. However there is one white 16 pin plug that has 8 wires all in the center of the plug that doesn't seam to plug into anything that is around. I have pictures and any help would be appreciated. Im sure I've overlooked something but I've spent so many hours looking into diagrams it's all blending together haha. I also posted the wiring diagram I used for the 4th pin on the ECU if anyone knows of any wires that need power other than 9,13,14,22, and 23 let me know. Thanks
 

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Did you remove the motor to swap the gearbox? And sell motor and gearbox together?

That diagram isn't the best I have seen. I have to double check against my ones. The 16 pin plug with 8 wires looks like traction control colours. Is it the same ecu that you were running? Any other parts changed? Do you have power to coils and injectors?
 
Did you remove the motor to swap the gearbox? And sell motor and gearbox together?

That diagram isn't the best I have seen. I have to double check against my ones. The 16 pin plug with 8 wires looks like traction control colours. Is it the same ecu that you were running? Any other parts changed? Do you have power to coils and injectors?

I have all now coils, igniters, injectors, starter and timing belt kit. Yeah I sold the old motor and gearbox together since it was a working set and I wanted to go with a stronger transmission that could handle some boost. I also sold the original ECU with the motor, I purchased a refurbished ECU from a 1993 ls400 I believe the part number is 89661-50140. I have a spare since I figured with my wiring skills I'd probably ruin one. I pulled the traction and abs controls to clear space and clutter. I will check for power at the coils but I do have fuel to the rail, when I turn it over it doesn't click or anything.
 
Roger that. Lets see how my over the internet diagnoses goes.

I'm pretty sure the issue you are having is the engine doesn't crank over. The starter motor fails to engage.

It sounds like you have the same loom as your car as it plugs in and the ECU number looks like its correct. This is important to check as later Ecu plugs in but a few different pins makes it not work. (I'm doing a car in Poland atm like this )

Step one , does the engine turn over by hand? I would put a socket on the front pulley to confirm the engine rotates.

There is a large black plug at the back of the engine which joins the main engine harness to the starter harness. The large black wire is the start trigger. I would check this is plugged in. It also allows a place to jump a trigger in to check the starter motor but its easier to do inside the cabin.

This same large black wire is inside where the engine harness plugs into the body harness. You should have a 14 pin plug (two rows of vertical small pins on the outside , both sides , then two large pins vertical in the centre) Top one of the large is large black starter motor trigger wire , bottom is black/orange power to coils to putting voltage to incorrect wire shouldnt cause an issue.

I would be unplugging this plug and firing some voltage to the starter motor to confirm the starter motor works. If not, diagnose a failed starter. If it cranks over with this jump its good news.

I would then reconnect the plug with the start trigger and confirm you get voltage when the key is in the start position. At a guess it wont have any. I suggest the issue is the old loom had the bypass for the start inhibit in the loom. Did you remove the transmission loom? If not put a bridge between the black and black/white wires on the selector switch . These are the two with the large terminals. If the transmission loom is removed then find these two wires in the engine harness to body harness plugs, join them and hopefully the car cranks over. They are in the same start plug under the dash but just as a warning the tacho wire is also in this plug and is black. I would avoid getting this wrong. If this circuit has been bridged correctly already then I would be looking at the starter relay.

Just as a note I normally sell diagrams and info (I do 1uz conversions for a living, youtube CartuneNZ) but today I'm feeling generous. Good luck and let us know how you get on.
 
Roger that. Lets see how my over the internet diagnoses goes.

I'm pretty sure the issue you are having is the engine doesn't crank over. The starter motor fails to engage.

It sounds like you have the same loom as your car as it plugs in and the ECU number looks like its correct. This is important to check as later Ecu plugs in but a few different pins makes it not work. (I'm doing a car in Poland atm like this )

Step one , does the engine turn over by hand? I would put a socket on the front pulley to confirm the engine rotates.

There is a large black plug at the back of the engine which joins the main engine harness to the starter harness. The large black wire is the start trigger. I would check this is plugged in. It also allows a place to jump a trigger in to check the starter motor but its easier to do inside the cabin.

This same large black wire is inside where the engine harness plugs into the body harness. You should have a 14 pin plug (two rows of vertical small pins on the outside , both sides , then two large pins vertical in the centre) Top one of the large is large black starter motor trigger wire , bottom is black/orange power to coils to putting voltage to incorrect wire shouldnt cause an issue.

I would be unplugging this plug and firing some voltage to the starter motor to confirm the starter motor works. If not, diagnose a failed starter. If it cranks over with this jump its good news.

I would then reconnect the plug with the start trigger and confirm you get voltage when the key is in the start position. At a guess it wont have any. I suggest the issue is the old loom had the bypass for the start inhibit in the loom. Did you remove the transmission loom? If not put a bridge between the black and black/white wires on the selector switch . These are the two with the large terminals. If the transmission loom is removed then find these two wires in the engine harness to body harness plugs, join them and hopefully the car cranks over. They are in the same start plug under the dash but just as a warning the tacho wire is also in this plug and is black. I would avoid getting this wrong. If this circuit has been bridged correctly already then I would be looking at the starter relay.

Just as a note I normally sell diagrams and info (I do 1uz conversions for a living, youtube CartuneNZ) but today I'm feeling generous. Good luck and let us know how you get on.


Yeah that's correct I can't get the starter to engage, even after replacing it with a new one. I was wondering if the theft deterrent system is compatible with the 1993 ECU or if it's wired directly to the chassis. The crank does rotate by hand I verified this the other day plus when I installed the timing belt it was rotated to line the cams up. I did have to buy a new starter harness so I will make sure I have that all plugged back in and I will check for the other plugs as well. Thanks for the help, I appreciate it, I will report back once I get time to work on it again.
 
Yeah that's correct I can't get the starter to engage, even after replacing it with a new one. I was wondering if the theft deterrent system is compatible with the 1993 ECU or if it's wired directly to the chassis. The crank does rotate by hand I verified this the other day plus when I installed the timing belt it was rotated to line the cams up. I did have to buy a new starter harness so I will make sure I have that all plugged back in and I will check for the other plugs as well. Thanks for the help, I appreciate it, I will report back once I get time to work on it again.

So I was looking at the starter harness and it seams to be plugged in, both behind the motor and in the car. However when I tried sending power down the large black wire for some reason the guage fuse blew. I have a new starter installed but maybe something is wrong with a connection or wire that I couldn't see? I did see a sensor that isn't plugged in due to the connectors being different, it was right behind the alternator and my best guess is a oil level sensor but idk if that would prevent it from starting. I have the nuetral switch bypassed and it is getting 12v from the black sta wire that is in the same loom. I replaced the starter relay as well and that didn't seam to help either.
 
Did you try sending 12 volts down the start trigger wire on the back of the engine? The one thats closest to the start motor itself without removing the manifold and plugging directly onto the starter motor. Its the larger 4.8mm terminal in the plug. The other two wires in the plug are the knock sensors.
 
Did you try sending 12 volts down the start trigger wire on the back of the engine? The one thats closest to the start motor itself without removing the manifold and plugging directly onto the starter motor. Its the larger 4.8mm terminal in the plug. The other two wires in the plug are the knock sensors.

Where does that wire come out at? I had the manifold off but I have it all back together now. Can I access it from the plug in the back?
 

hope this helps

Thank you this should help a lot! I just found out the clip is broken on that wire going to the starter so I need to see if I can order a new plug/connector from lexus. Once I receive wire it I'll try again
 


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