1uz-fe Auto box 1st gear kick down??

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Bhogg

New Member
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23
Location
Victoria , Australia
Hi All

Just wondering if the 1uz-fe Auto box is meant to kick back/drop down from second/third gear to first gear?
Due to my engine and box being put into another vehicle I’m wondering if there is something missing that makes it kick back to first or not!.
I’m guessing there would be as it’s completely gutless if doing say 20 kmph and it’s in 2-3 gear and then put your foot down and there’s nothing no power due to in not dropping down to first gear!!.

Any help would be greatly appreciated
Cheers
 
The early ecus have a kick down switch under the accelerator pedal which is often not fitted in conversions. This allows the ecu to kick down better. Its not a great system but it certainly improves transmission performance. I'm guessing your vehicle won't have it.
 
Yes depending on the conditions of coarse. Another wire thats often missed in the Brake switch input so the transmission often doesnt select 1st when the vehicle comes to a stop after driving so they start off in second gear making them slugish. The TPS dont read full 100% so thats why the kick down switch is required on the early. I prefer the Gen 2 ecu as thay have better Mapping for engine and transmission. No kick down switch required.
 
since this is about the 1UZ auto gearbox, may I sneak in a related question;

can the gearbox be set up so that when the stick is put into 3 or D or whatever it says on the gear console,
the gearbox goes to the highest gear and stays there, regardless, until the stick is moved to Neutral position?
 
Hello Melvinmelvin. Yep thats easy. Unplug the gearbox solenoids. Default is 4th(overdrive) without the solenoids working. I do this for testing on the 4 speed box. Pulling it all the way to Low gives you first , Second gives you second and Drive gives overdrive. You loose third as there is only 3 positions.
 
wow, thanks,
wish I had known that before I threw the autobox away

could actually comfortably run the autobox in a boat then, without the box jumping up and down between the two highest gears
 
yes. They are easy to wire up the solenoids too for manual type control so you could have any gear. They suck the power though a bit but it would be an interesting experiment to see how it worked.
 
yes. They are easy to wire up the solenoids too for manual type control so you could have any gear. They suck the power though a bit but it would be an interesting experiment to see how it worked.

if I buy another 1UZ I will definitely try, this sounds good to me,
a few horsepowers down the drain in return for overdrive is OK,
what I would have problem with losing is low end torque

the 1UZ bellhouse/gearbox is a much better fit for my transom than
the customary Isuzu/Mazda combination I use now

the only downside I can spot without thinking too much would be the reverse gear,
I assume the reverse in the autobox doesn't go high in revs,
with a 2-bladed prop designed for high speed one need revs in reverse in order to brake rapidly
(with the Mazda box the 3rd gear (turned) is used for reverse)
 
Yes depending on the conditions of coarse. Another wire thats often missed in the Brake switch input so the transmission often doesnt select 1st when the vehicle comes to a stop after driving so they start off in second gear making them slugish. The TPS dont read full 100% so thats why the kick down switch is required on the early. I prefer the Gen 2 ecu as thay have better Mapping for engine and transmission. No kick down switch required.


Ok thanks

Do you know if the gen 2 ECU’S work in the gen 1? And if so is it just a simple swap?

Cheers mate
 
I'm fitting a gen 2 ecu onto a gen 1 engine atm. Quite straightforward. All the engine sensors are the same except for the afm. I'm swapping on a complete matching ecu and loom and wiring it accordingly. This will give sequential injection (I've checked I've got the correct matching injectors for the ecu too) . The earliest gen 1 trans needs the internal loom swapped whereas the later gen 1 trans you don't use the three pin vss on the tailshaft. My one is running a different trans so I've integrated the separate trans computer into the engine loom along with the 4x4 engagement wiring.
 
I'm fitting a gen 2 ecu onto a gen 1 engine atm. Quite straightforward. All the engine sensors are the same except for the afm. I'm swapping on a complete matching ecu and loom and wiring it accordingly. This will give sequential injection (I've checked I've got the correct matching injectors for the ecu too) . The earliest gen 1 trans needs the internal loom swapped whereas the later gen 1 trans you don't use the three pin vss on the tailshaft. My one is running a different trans so I've integrated the separate trans computer into the engine loom along with the 4x4 engagement wiring.


Cheers Gloverman

I’ve got nothing on my tailshaft, so not exactly sure what that means?.
Just a pity there wasn’t an easier way to make the auto crack a bit harder, So is it worth me trying a latter ecu or how will I tell if I’ll fit and if it will fit what exactly will this achieve?.

Cheers
 


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