1UZ in Thai longtail boat

[gloverman]

I'm not sure your suggestion is the best way to go.

I do up really simple looms for boats.
B terminal to battery via a main 100-120 amp fuse
IG terminal still needs ignition feed with key on
S - Loop onto the B
L - I prefer to run a light but these alternators will excite/charge fine without it.

 

[melvinmelvin]

I'm not sure your suggestion is the best way to go.

I do up really simple looms for boats.
B terminal to battery via a main 100-120 amp fuse
IG terminal still needs ignition feed with key on
S - Loop onto the B
L - I prefer to run a light but these alternators will excite/charge fine without it.

OK, thanks a heap.
Will write this down and implement it next time I open the loom, (quite time consuming to open - much more than just tape that has to go).

Will do B <--> positive buss (both batteries have a 200A fuse on the pole)
Will skip L
Will do S <--> B
Will do ignition-on <--> IG (outside the loom)

How much A will IG draw? Would a 2A fuse suffice?

Just to make sure I do not misunderstand you.
When you say B, do you mean the small, M4 or so, bolt/nut on the backside of
the alternator that is cose to the B marking?
Or do you mean the larger M8 bolt that sticks out on the side of the alternator?

 

[gloverman]

B is the m8 bolt that comes out the side of the alternator which the main supply attaches too.

I think your boat needs a simplier loom.

 

[melvinmelvin]

Thanks.
Will do this simplification, for sure. Gives me real pleasure every time a wire can be removed from the 1UZ loom.
And this is big party time, 3 wires down the drain in 1 go. (the ignition-on --> IG plint will go in my own wiring arrangement outside the 1UZ loom)

Yes, I am almost certain that I would do just fine with a much simpler loom.
However, I don't know enough about such electrical systems to screen diagrams and remove wires, alas.

 

[melvinmelvin]

Couldn't agree more than with glovermans comment "I think your boat needs a simplier loom".

For the fun of it, have compiled a list of "things" done to my 1UZ which I think ought to result in a slimmer/simpler loom;


Electrical/electronic wired “thingies” that are «gone»:

Toyota gearbox and bell house, removed

Servo pump, (steering and brakes), removed

Air condition, removed

Toyota radiator and fans, removed (existing arrangement (my cabling, fusing and relays) has no need for any ECU help)

Diagnostic plug, if any, removed

Toyota fuel pump, removed (existing 1-speed pump has no ECU help (my cabling/fusing))

All Toyota instruments, removed

Existing instruments;

fuel level + oil pressure + oil temperature + gear oil temperature + coolant temperature + RPM + engine hour counter + battery monitors are all fed through sensors and wiring that I have supplied, except that the RPM gauge takes its tacho feed from one of the igniters (my cable outside the loom)

No need for any choke/cold-start arrangements, hardly ever below 25 Celsius here, mostly above 30 Celsius.

No need for any idling control/adjustment as electrical loads/consumers/sinks are switched on/off.

Everything related to water and oil cooling is my arrangement, no ECU help needed.

Exhaust temperature sensors removed. The exhaust system from engine manifold flange and all the way out is made by me.

Toyota ignition switch, fuses, radio, information, entertainment stuff, removed



In the vicinity of the air intake, the large flexible hose and the rigid body, there are some relatively large electrical connectors (with more wires than I like to look at). A couple of these connectors look as if they have a certain amount of internal brains.

I have no idea if they are considered “everlasting” or if they should be renewed. AFM and fuel adjuster are words coming to mind without me having a good understanding of what they actually do.

My guess is that the AFM quantifies the amount of air passing a certain point in the intake conduit and that the “fuel brain” adjusts the squirts of fuel from the injectors partly based on measured air flow and partly on the demands from the throttle wire, (and probably RPM and engine load/output also plays a role here).

Not sure if any of these could be simplified and not at all sure about possible consequences of any simplification.

 

[melvinmelvin]

Have compiled a list of various parts that have been changed/renewed on my 1UZ,
would be very interested if anybody had some comments about the parts at the bottom of the list, the ones in ? ? marks.
Are these parts that should be renewed every "now and then"?

New parts: over the past 4 years

(1994 or thereabouts Celsior)


Starter, new (Toyota)

Sparkplug leads, new (Toyota)

Coil leads, new (Toyota)

Water pump, new (Toyota)

Oil pump, new (OEM, based on new original Toyota pump)

CPV valve and grommet, new (Toyota)

Injectors and all seals, refurbished DENSO

All valve seals, new (Toyota)

Rotors, new (Toyota)

Water cooling and oil cooling arrangements, new (OEM)

Plenty oil seals and O-rings and gaskets and hoses, new (Toyota and OEM)

Timing belt and alternator belt, new (Toyota)



? Should probably change coils ?

? Should probably change the sockets for the spark plug leads on the distributors ?

? Igniters, are they "everlasting" or due for renewal ?

 

[melvinmelvin]

QUESTION ON WIRING THE STARTER​

Can the starter on a 1UZ (2nd generation - pre VVT) be wired completely independent of the ECU?
Does the ECU need to know when I turn my key from ignition-on position to start position?

Will big positive cable from battery to starter and smaller positive cable from ignition switch START position to starter (for triggering the solenoid)
and local grounding for starter do?

(I know I could probably find this out myself by studying my ECU loom.
I have three positive cables entering the wrapping for the ECU loom close to the ECU, battery+ and ingnition-on and start,
and I have forgotten what happens (if anything) to these cables inside the wrapping.
The wrapping goes all the way from about the camshafts all the way down to below the oilpan and across the floor to the ECU.
And the wrapping is several layers of tape and plastic/PVC tubing. Pretty waterproof, IP67 I would say.)

Its quite a job to uncover the cabling, likewise quite a job to make it waterprooof again.
Hence the question.
I assume some of you know this off the top of your heads.

 

[melvinmelvin]

HOW OLD IS MY 1UZ?​

Always a bit tricky to buy spare parts when you don't know which car the engine coes from and don't know year/model.
I do have some Age Indicators (AIs) for my engine Will list them below. Fine if someone know of further AIs or would
like to guess year/model.

VVT
No, without

OIL SUMP
Front.

GENERATION
2nd, judging from the feeder pipes to the injectors.

BRAND
Toyota, not Lexus.

ECU
89661-50241

ALTERNATOR
Oval, not circular, plug.

TIMING BELT
209 teeth.

YEAR ON SPARKPLUG LEADS
Have read here that the year of production is printed on the leads.
I have three sets (original Toyota) and have been all over them with magnifying glass and cannot find any year indications.

FEEDER CABLE TO LEFT HAND COIL
My cable is about 2.5 to 3 inches longer than on earlier models.
According to the spare part manager at Yeaomans (big Toyota/Lexus dealer) in Brighton, UK
this change was introduced in October 1994.

AFM WRAPPING
My AFM is contained in a black plastic box.
A kiwi by name Wade has written a guide to 1UZ wiring that states (if I understood him correctly)
that AFM in black plastic means 1995 or newer. Metallic box means older year/model.
Is this correct?

Any other AIs?

 

[melvinmelvin]

WATER PIPE (NOT IN USE)​

On my 1UZ there is a water pipe down in the V between the two cylinder banks.
Its of some kind of light metal and is about 1 inch in diameter.

It originates from one of the bigger pipings at the head of the engine,
goes down in the V and back to the end of the V and vertically straight up for about 15 cm.
The pipe ends there and is blocked.

What is this pipe used for, originally? Something to do with heating or cooling the car?

(I'd rather cut it off at the head of the engine and block it there.)

 

[Zuffen]

The water pipe is for the heater.

The pipe is held in place by a bolt half way along the valley.

I'd cut it off and block it off behind the bolt so it stays where it is supposed to be.

I suspect the engine is out of a Crown Majesta.

 

[melvinmelvin]

The water pipe is for the heater.

The pipe is held in place by a bolt half way along the valley.

I'd cut it off and block it off behind the bolt so it stays where it is supposed to be.

I suspect the engine is out of a Crown Majesta.

Thanks.
Crown Majesta is fine with me, not fussy.

Did you see my previous entry re age indicators? Is this bit about 1995 and AFM in black plastic versus metallic box correct?
If so, the engine should be Crown Majesta from some time between 1995 and VVT?

Is there a point in having that water pipe down in the valley?
If a leak should develop it would be much easier to deal with it at the head of the engine rather than down in the valley?

 

[Zuffen]

No real reason for the pipe to be in the valley, just neater as it[s hidden by the manifold.

I don't think they are prone to leaking so I'd leave it as is.

I've never bothered with dating the engines other than looking at the year on the plug leads.

 

[melvinmelvin]

Thanks, I did leave the pipe as it was, (for now at least).

Having an idea of model/year makes spare part purchases easier, have made some mistakes so far.
Would not mind avoiding further mistakes.

Tried starting yesterday after having put the mill together again.
Starter did not turn, solenoid not reacting.
Did after a while spot the reason, something wrong between the ignition-key-START position and where the signal cable to the
solenoid enters the ECU loom.
So bypassed that with a cable directly from the battery to the ECU-loom.

Solenoid working and mill cranking happily while uttering sounds of silence.
After a while the odd big bang from one or two cylinders.

Look look look, think think think ---> the plug on the right hand coil not working, the two cables almost falling out of the plug.
So, now must go plug hunting.
(has its sides with old brittle plastic plugs)


QUESTION:
Should the effect of the RH coil not having the two wires plugged in been limited to the 4 cylinders it serves or
may it affect all 8?

 

[Zuffen]

Only the 4 it serves.

The engine should start on 4 cylinders.

I've been using mine as a 4 cylinder for months as I'm too busy on a project for my son to look at my cars.

 

[melvinmelvin]

Only the 4 it serves.

The engine should start on 4 cylinders.

I've been using mine as a 4 cylinder for months as I'm too busy on a project for my son to look at my cars.

Right, thanks.
In addition to somehow having broken the plug on one coil
I have likely done something stupid with the timing then

Having no sons I should have time available to look into this!

 

[melvinmelvin]

THE TWO WIRED PLUGS IN THE COILS
​

The two wires that goes into the plug:
Is it critical which wire go into which hole? Or can they be interchanged?

(very high water here now, flood conditions, very difficult to get into the boat to look at wires & colours

will the two wires on the LH coil have the same colours as the two wires on the RH coil?
colour wise, should the cables be sorted equal on RH and LH coil?)

(the two wires have fallen out of the RH coil/plug)

(somewhat clumsily phrased, English ain't my mother tongue and never will be, but I hope you understand what I'm after)

 

[gloverman]

Going by your ECU number the Engine is a Gen2 celsior engine. That ecu is only fitted to Japanese Celsior's from 10/94 through to 6/97. The plastic AFM was introduced with the gen2 engine at the end of 94 in most markets but most people say 1995 as it reduces confusion.

Models your ECU number was fitted to.

UCF20-AEPGK
UCF20-AEPNK
UCF21-AEPQK

The pipe under the manifold is for the Heater and for boats I remove and fit a frost plug into the back of the waterpump to blank. I often remove the water pipe from the rear cross over housing as well and blank so there is no chance of leaks and its much neater.

Coil wiring will work either way but the coil output is reduced when wired incorrect polarity. The power supply (12volt) goes beside the clip. Its often a black/red wire. Black with a trace is normally a power on toyota. I have new plugs for coils.

 

[cribbj]

......English ain't my mother tongue and never will be, but I hope you understand what I'm after

You coulda fooled me!!! What's your mother tongue????

Sorry for the OT

 

[melvinmelvin]

You coulda fooled me!!! What's your mother tongue????

Sorry for the OT

Norwegian.

Btw, the mill is flying again now.
Smooth as silk? Don't know yet.

Started without coolant after having corrected the broken coil plug and the timing mistake, today.
Only running for a couple of minutes to ascertain that all 8 fired whilst keenly watching the oil temperature gauge.

Then put on the brackets and the radiator and the radiatorfans and the hoses/valves/pipes and arrangements for emergency cooling.

Then it was starting to get dark, time for beers and a snack.
Will fill up coolant and test further tomorrow.

 

[melvinmelvin]

Going by your ECU number the Engine is a Gen2 celsior engine. That ecu is only fitted to Japanese Celsior's from 10/94 through to 6/97. The plastic AFM was introduced with the gen2 engine at the end of 94 in most markets but most people say 1995 as it reduces confusion.

Models your ECU number was fitted to.

UCF20-AEPGK
UCF20-AEPNK
UCF21-AEPQK

The pipe under the manifold is for the Heater and for boats I remove and fit a frost plug into the back of the waterpump to blank. I often remove the water pipe from the rear cross over housing as well and blank so there is no chance of leaks and its much neater.

Coil wiring will work either way but the coil output is reduced when wired incorrect polarity. The power supply (12volt) goes beside the clip. Its often a black/red wire. Black with a trace is normally a power on toyota. I have new plugs for coils.

Thanks a heap Gloverman, much appreciated.

Re coil plugs;
On the engine the colours are black wire + black/red wire.
I bought two coil plugs from a scrapyard early this week. They looked in pretty good shape.
They had white and black/white coloured wires hanging out of them.
The bi-coloured wires in the same position as the bi-coloured wire on the LH coil on the engine.

So;
I soldered the two (old and new) bi-coloured wires together and the original black and the new white wire together.
Ie connecting wires on the RH coil in the same positions as on the LH coil.
It worked. Right power or less than right power I don't really know.

(I will e-mail you a revised shopping list tomorrow.)

Coil plugs are sorted.
But I would be interested in that / those frost plugs to block off after removing piping for the heater.