I need immo bypass for 3uzfe george..
Please email me at email@example.com
Hi Gloverman, thanks for the quick reply. I was a moron and removed the ex. cams before reading the instructions and so didn't secure the gears. I saw a post (somewhere) that showed a guy who clamped the cam in a vise (on the flats) and used a screw driver and punch to line up the holes. Is that ok to do?
And it looks like I won't be putting this motor back together anyway-I found out today I've got bent intakes on #8, #6, , so that probably means damaged pistons too. So it's time for a new motor. I posted about this on Club Lexus in the performance and maintenance section, if you want to take a look. I can't figure out why the belt would jump at less than 3k rpm, steady cruise, and only about 3 years since I installed a new one and all the goodies..
Anyway, thank you again for your help.
The split gears are really easy if you pin them before disassembly. Line up the cam timing as per normal and you will find the split gears will have a set of dots which align. Make note of these. Then you will find that there are some holes through one of the split halves with a 6mm thread in the other side of the gear. Fit a short M6 bolt which will stop the split gear moving and you and disassemble and reassemble as normal. Just remember to remove the M6 before running the engine.
Hi Gloverman, I am in need of your advice. I am in the process of removing my cylinder heads ('97 1UZFE), and need instruction on how to re-align the intake and exhaust cams (especially the split gear exhaust cam). I have read a couple of poorly written explanations but they do more to confuse than enlighten me.
I would greatly appreciate any assistance you could send my way.
Good day. I hope all is well your side.
I write to you from Pakistan.
I am looking to source polished/ported heads for the following engines:
1. 1 x 1UZ-FE non VVTi out of an LS400 that I have swapped in my 1981 Mazda RX-7. Have also attached a roots type supercharger to it as of now. Picture attached.
2. 1 x 2UZ-FE. Is currently the stock/factory power plant in a 2010 model Toyota LandCruiser - this car has a custom exhaust job only.
Looking to make more power (we can never have enough, of course)
Interested in what products or custom job you may suggest for the above.
Thanks for your advice.
Ali Raza Gul
The Lube Shop
IIf the money is right on the Tudor, I would grab it with both hands....
I've looked on your site a few times, you are definitely the man to know.....
Surprisingly, their is almost no one making t bodies, I was going to produce a couple of body styles to sell on, but the market just isn't there.
I had it in my mind to build a kit based on an mx5, but when you step back, the iva has killed the kit car industry.
There is a c cab body on eBay now, its one of the 5 revenge ( Nick Butler ) bodies that was made.
Cool looking body but he is asking too much for it, he had it up for £2000 but he now has a £1250 buy it now, I was going to offer £500, its creeping up to that and not meet the reserve.
If there is anything you need, I might be able to help
I did try to send you a PM yesterday, but I dont think it went across, I'm more or less in the same position as you.
I dragged my T out of some bushes about 8 years ago, it was a rod, but most of the good bits were missing, it had a frontal and really was scrap, but I kept the registration and chassis number tried to salvage what I could.
I'm now pensioned off work due to I'll health, so I have loads of time on my hand's to do whatever I can.
I guess we are at the same level build wise, I have everything to complete the build apart from the rear axle.
I'll keep you up to speed, but no pictures yet.
Sure did mate, have a look on my web site,
there's a pic of the T bucket that I started to build way back in 2000, had to get rid of that one unfortunately. Have diff, engine,trans, for the new one so far. Have an option on a 23 tudor that's in a hedge, am in 2 minds about it, it's not a RPU but it's steel and has the title with it.
Did you receive my reply PM, I'm not sure if I sent it or not.....
Hello Ben, I was so impressed with your Scimitar build I've just gone and bought one.
I will be picking it up next week, along with a vvt engine, I think your build thread is so comprehensive, I can't see that I have any real difficulties ahead of me, bar the wiring.
I do have one or two questions, and hoping that you might be able to talk them through with me.
I've had a Scimitar in the past, and absolutely loved it, but could never understand why anyone would put a RV8 in one, to me it seemed like a lot of work for very little gain, but the Lexus lump has loads of appeal, and twice the power of the ford.
So if It's okay to contact you, or if you have any tips, it would be very much appreciated.
Jim, try sending me a pm rather than visitor message
The engine is too old for me , I never mess with such stuff
However you can still look for it at Wilbo's page, or buy a CD / book from Japan. If you plan to work with these engines in future, the $25 that the cd's worth is nothing. If not, leave the engine for someone else
1JZ-GE CROWN JZS141 A/T 89661-30830
hey George do u know much about this ecu
im trying to help the shop I used to ork at
they sold a jzs141 non turbo 1j engine and ecu and loom
the part number of ecu is that above
the problem is they sent the wrong auto
the auto has a 6 pin plug for the solenoids
which is normally 2 powers to trigger solenoid a and b
then im guessing 2 ign powers for lock up sol and line press sol
and it has 3 pin speedo sensor for dash
and 3 pin sp2+ sp2- sensor for auto which u normally need to run thru module to get correct signal to ecu
now the engine loom has only a 3 pin plug for the solenoids
just like the soarer and its sol 1 and sol 2 and sol 3
so im trying to figure out if the gearbox matches the ecu and engine
and the loom is wrong
or the loom matches engine and ecu and gearbox is wrong
basically do u know what solenoid wiring is like on a crown jzs141 1j non turbo
is it a 3 pin plug or a 6 pin plug
Have you ever done a KZH116 LWB auto AWD 1UZ conversion
what's the ECU's part number? 89661-? I will most likely be able to bypass it
I wired up an Australian mr2 3sge engine but it has an immobiliser
the jap ecus didn't have immobiliser and the australain ones did
but these are hard to find ecus as most have 3 plugs on the ecu
the later ones which are aussie and some Japanese have 4 plugs on them
would u be able to bypass the immob on these ecus
when I wired the ecu it would not start then I said to shop maybe it has immob
so we rang totyota and they said yes it does
so we fitted a jap spec ecu and repinned wire and I got it started
but it doesn't run perfect on the jap spec ecu
so im seeing what other options the shop has
dragtor, отправил email
Привет! Георгий (правильно?) Вот наткнулся на в поиске на этот форум, смотрю ты (можно на "ты"?) из России) В общем мы планируем 3узет в 21 волгу ставить, вопрос сейчас в том нужно ли шить мозг, и, если "да", где это делать. У нас 89661-50590. Я так понял, у него иммо не встроен, а отдельным блоком идёт. Сколько твоя работа стоить будет, если нужно с ним всё же что-то делать?
Hi Justen , how are things going , can you email me at firstname.lastname@example.org , what to chat to you about the turbo's you were running in you car . Cheers Mario
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