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How you change cams
This is an interesting article. Initially I have fear
working on it because the complexity of cams and its association
with timing. However recently I had some problems with my
head gaskets so I have no other choice but changing it. I
was quoted $1,500 for changing my head gaskets. Ouch!
In order for me to change my head gaskets, I have to take the
heads out and in order to take the heads out, the cams must be
remove. So here we go.
· Remove the intake pipes and
throttle body
·
Remove the plastic spark plug cover (4 10 mm bolts). Once
you remove the plastic cover you will see the
cam gear and
timing belt.
·
Using
22 mm wrench and turn
the crank pulley to "0". The ratio of crack pulley vs. cam
pulley is 2:1. That means it will take the crank cycle
twice before the cam pulley fully cycle once. The optimal
timing marks are: Crank to pulley to "zero" the cam
gear facing in the direction
1 pm (right gear) and left gear
should face into 11 am. If you look very closely to the
cam gear, there is a sesame size dot in front of the crank
pulley. There is also a secondary mark on the rear portion
of the cam pulley. To reference the
cam pulley position.
The rear black metal plate behind the cam pulleys have a
raised
mark. The cam pulley mark should
align with the rear plate
mark. Remember
1 pm and 11 am position.
·
When turning the crank pulley Lexus suggest you only turn the
pulley clockwise. If you pass the mark, you have to turn
the crank pulley twice (2 cycles) in order to get back to the
proper position in relationship with the cam pulleys.
·
Once you got the cam pulleys and crank pulley align to "Zero"
then I suggest you get a white paint type of marker from
Michael's. You should mark the
belt align with the cam
pulley mark.
·
Now its time to remove the valve cover. The cover is
stabilized by 8-10 10 mm bolts. They should come out
pretty easy with out major difficulty. Once the cover if
off, you will see the cams. Don't be scare! Fun just
started.
·
Before anything else, you should use a 6mm short screw to lock
the exhaust cam secondary gear before loosen anything.
Once you screw a 6 mm crew in then later you don't have to
muscle the secondary gear back in position. Its a spring
loaded gear.
·
The next step is to remove the
two plastic cover in front of the
cam gear. You will also need to unplug the cam sensor
wires.
·
Next will be the
distributor caps. Use 8 mm socket to
remove the three screws. At the same time you will
continue to remove the
distributor rotors. Now its also a
good time to remove the
cam sensor bracket.
·
Now before removing anything further, you should use the white
paint marker and mark the two cam gears. Mark the contact
teeth of the two cams. So when you install the cams back
make sure the two cam teeth line up in its original position.
·
Now its the movement of truth. Using a
cam holder on the
cam gear and use a 17 mm socket to loosen the
cam
pulley.
Once both of the cam gear bolts are removed.
·
Its time to remove the
timing belt tensioner located on the
bottom of the engine near the crack pulley. Its a flash
light size stabilized by two 12 mm bolts. Once the
tensioner is removed, now you can remove the cam gears.
Inspect camshaft journals
Using a micrometer, measure the journal diameter.
Journal diameter:
Exhaust camshaft thrust portion (A)
23.959–23.975 mm (0.9433–0.9439 in.)
Others 26.954–26.970 mm (1.0612–1.0618 in.)
If the journal diameter is not as specified, check the oil
clearance.
Inspect cam lobes
Using a micrometer, measure the cam lobe height.
Standard cam lobe height:
Intake 41.710–41.810 mm (1.6421–1.6461 in.)
RIGHT CAMS:
Lets start with the right cams first. Before removing the
cam caps. Take a look at the caps. It should say on
the Intake cam: I1, I2, I3, I4, I5. On the exhaust cam
should state as: E1, E2, E3, E4, E5. As you might know by
now I stands for Intake and E stands for Exhaust. You will
also noticed there will be an arrow on every cap. On the
right cams the arrow will be facing toward the rear of the car.
You will also notice on the first cap (I1 and E1) there is a
cross oil bridge. When moving the screws make sure you
move them slowly and rotate them in a zig-zag method. For
best result remove the exhaust cam first then the intake cam.
Once the right cams are removed, now you can replace the new or
aftermarket cams.
LEFT CAMS:
The left cams will be very similar as the right. However,
the caps will be facing forward instead of rear.
Otherwise its just straight forward as the right.
INSTALLING CAMS:
Before installing the cams back. Its also best time to
change out the cam seals. Lexus recommend using silicon on
the two cams above the cam seals. Its recommended that you
install the intake cams first then exhaust cam. Once the
intake cams are installed. The next step would be
installing the cam gear. Make sure the cam gear fit into
the cam groove before tightening the 17 mm bolt. Once the
cam gear is installed, alight the cam gear mark to the back
black plate mark. Make sure you use some grease on the
caps and the cams where they mate. Now put the intake caps
back in the order as they were and hand tight the bolts.
Make sure the cross oil bridge install properly and in the right
position. Tighten the bolts in a zig-zag pattern.
The next thing would be the exhaust cam. Make sure you
align the marked position of the cam gears. Double check
the mark alignment. If everything is ok, then you should
install the exhaust cam caps similar to the intake cams.
Remember the 6 mm screw? Its time to take it out.
Otherwise this little crew will cost destruction. REMOVE
IT!
TIMING BELT:
Now its very important you get. By now your cam gears are
alignment along with the crank. You can put the timing
belt on the left cam gear first. The marked timing belt
should be in the right spot. If not, now worry too much
about it. Next would be the right cam. You can slide
the belt into the open grooves of the right cam gear.
There will be some slack on the timing belt. However once
the timing belt tensioner install the slack will greatly
decrease. On the other hand, the slack will solely taken
on the right cam.
TENSIONER:
You need to compress the tensioner and slide a small pin into
it. Once installed you can remove the pin. After the
tensioner is installed the right cam gear will move
counterclockwise about one tooth so make sure all the marks are
align after the tensioner installed.
CHECK AND ADJUST VALVE CLEARANCE
Turn the camshaft, and position the cam lobe upward, and
check and adjust the valve clearance.
Valve clearance:
Intake 0.15–0.25 mm (0.006–0.010 in.)
Exhaust 0.25–0.35 mm (0.010–0.014 in.)
Exhaust 41.910–42.010 mm (1.6500–1.6539 in.)
Minimum cam lobe height:
Intake 41.56 mm (1.6362 in.)
Exhaust 41.76 mm (1.6441 in.) (An
article on how to adjust valve clearance)
DOUBLE CHECK:
Once the timing is fully installed. You need to double
check all the marks. Best is to turn the crank pulley in
two complete cycles and recheck the timing mark of the cam
pulley and crank pulley. If all the marks align then you
are almost there. Now you need to recheck the cam gears.
There are two small (size of sesame) marks on each cam gear.
Its located on the rear of the gear. As you turn the crank
pulley and look for the four marks alignment. They should
align. This is just a confirmatory test. If the 4
marks (two from the intake cam and two from exhaust cam)
CONCLUSION:
If all the marks are align, then its time to put back
everything. This process is much easier now. I must
admit, this is the most time intensive article I have ever
written. Good luck and enjoy.
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